Author: TrueFacet

TrueFacet is an online marketplace for pre-owned fine jewelry and watches. Every item sold is verified by our in-house team of gemologists and watch experts to ensure its authenticity.

Everything You Need to Know About Heart-Shaped Diamonds

With Valentine’s Day nearly upon us, hearts are popping up everywhere from cuddly pajama bottoms to cupcake molds, and yes, they are on the rise in the world of jewelry, too. Heart-shaped diamonds have a remarkable history tied to iconic figures in history and are a very special cut for any precious stone. In honor of the holiday of hearts, we’re digging into the history and characteristics of the heart-shaped diamond.

The Heart-Shaped Diamond in History

The concept of a heart-shaped diamond was developed in 1463 by the Duke of Milan, Galeazzo Maria Sforza, and Nicodemo Tranchedini di Pontremoli. About a hundred years later, in the early 1560s, Mary, Queen of Scots gifted Elizabeth I of England a gold ring containing a heart-cut diamond, despite their rivalry for the English throne. This rumor solidified the shape’s reputation as a “royal” cut.

Over the years, heart-shaped diamonds have appeared in a variety of engagement rings, both royal and not. They tend to experience short but powerful boosts in popularity every few years and then fade into the background again for a few more. Never fear, however, because the heart-shaped trend always swings back around sooner or later.

Lady Gaga’s heart-shaped engagement ring. Photo courtesy of Us Weekly.

From Lady Gaga to Gwen Stefani to Nicki Minaj, heart-shaped diamond engagement rings have had their day in the sun with celebrities over the last decade or so, which has likely enhanced their popularity of late. Before now, they were last on-trend in the 1980s, along with pear and marquise cuts, both of which are suddenly hot again. The rise of the heart may simply be attributed to the desire to be different, and to the fact that heart shapes often cost less than other fancy-shaped diamonds.

The Devil in the Details

What puts this cut on the cheaper end of the spectrum is that its shape makes it very easy for a less-than-talented diamond cutter to produce an imperfect stone. Heart-shaped diamonds have 58 facets in them, and all 58 facets need to be meticulously planned and perfectly executed to make sure that the stone reflects light at all angles and avoid the “bow-tie effect”. Imperfect heart-cut diamonds have black triangles along the length of the stone that occur because of a faulty design that misplaces reflected light.

The bowtie effect on a marquise-cut diamond. Photo courtesy of The Diamond Pro.

When purchasing a heart-shaped diamond, it’s important to look out for details like that. The market now is not flooded with heart-shaped diamonds, so the ones that exist today are often good quality and cut nicely, but that doesn’t mean you should buy one without certification or not do your research before investing in the cut.

A good length-to-width ratio for light reflection and overall beauty should be around the 1:1 to 1:1.2 mark. And, as with any diamond, clarity and color play a part in the stone’s overall fire, so finding a gem with fewer inclusions that is as white as a budget will allow is a good idea.

A three-prong set heart-cut diamond. Photo courtesy of RockHer.

Fancy-cut diamonds like this can also require specific setting styles so that they look their best and catch the most light. Heart-shaped diamonds work best in bezel settings and three-prong settings. Bezel settings help maintain that carefully-cut shape, but can block out light, so some designers will choose to add a halo of pave diamonds to supplement the heart’s brilliance. The three-prong setting is best for catching the light, but make sure the prongs are placed properly so the stone is secure.

The heart wants what it wants, and if your heart is drawn to this cut’s romantic shape and story, we suggest contacting our concierge service here for assistance in finding the perfect heart-shaped diamond for you.

All About Amethyst: The February Birthstone

The birthstone for February is the violet-colored quartz gemstone amethyst, and it is one that has a wonderfully colorful cultural history.

The Origins and Cultural Significance of Amethyst
The name amethyst stems from the Koine Greek dialect and is derived from the word “amethystos”, which can be translated as “not intoxicated.” According to legend, the ancient Greeks wore the gemstone and drank out of cups carved out of it to protect themselves from getting drunk. The stone became well-known for its healing, protective power, and during medieval times, European solders wore amulets made of amethyst to battle, believing that it would keep them calm and level-headed in heated confrontations. Amethyst is also important in Tibetan culture, as Tibetan Buddhists made prayer beads out of the stone.

The most well-known myth about how amethyst came to exist comes from a poem written by French author, Remy Belleau, titled L’Amethyste, ou les Amours de Bacchus et d’Amethyste – or, in English, Amethyst or the loves of Bacchus and Amethyste. In this poetic tale, Bacchus – the ancient Greek god of drunkenness, grapes, and wine (hence the term “bacchanalia”) – pursued a young beautiful maiden by the name of Amethyste. Wishing to remain celibate, Amethyste refused the advances of Bacchus and instead sent prayers to the gods for her desire to stay chaste. The goddess Diana, hearing her prayers, chose to turn Amethyste into a precious white stone which eventually changed to a purple color when Bacchus poured wine over the stone as an offering of his humility.

Noteworthy Amethyst Jewels
One of the most iconic pieces of jewelry to prominently display February’s birthstone is an Indian-inspired Cartier necklace commissioned in 1947 by the then infamous Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson. The early statement piece featuring 27 step-cut amethysts, one larger heart-shaped amethyst, an array of turquoise beads, and several round brilliant cut diamonds set in gold. It was sold at Sotheby’s in Geneva in 1987 for approximately $605,000 USD.

The Duchess of Windsor’s Cartier amethyst necklace. Photo courtesy of Vogue Mexico.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Properties and Hardness of Amethyst
In terms of color, the gemstone can generally range from a lighter lavender/violet/pinkish hue to a deep, dark purple, but a stone can also exhibit red and/or blue secondary hues. The finest varieties of amethyst can be found in Brazil, Siberia, Sri Lanka, and the Far East with the finest grade often being referred to as “Deep Siberian.” The gemstone is part of the quartz mineral family and its color is a result of irradiation, iron impurities, and the presence of trace elements resulting in complex crystal lattice substitutions. The richness and depth of the stone’s color is dependent on the arrangement, rather than the concentration, of transition elements like iron in its chemical makeup. Natural forms of amethyst also tend to be dichroic, which means they appear different colors when seen from different directions. They usually appear reddish-violet or bluish-violet, but when heated, they can turn into a more yellow or brown color and resemble citrine, another quartz gemstone.

As far as hardness goes, amethyst is the same as quartz: they both ring in at a 7 on the Mohs scale, but amethyst is slightly lower if the variety of the stone contains impurities. And in terms of setting the stone, with a hardness of 7, most setting styles will work, so prong set, bezel, semi-bezel, or channel all work to enhance how the amethyst looks in a piece of jewelry.

Thanks to Pantone’s “Ultra Violet” Color of the Year, there is likely to be a lot more amethyst jewelry on the market in 2018.

Quiz: What Should You Give Her This Valentine’s Day?

Answer these five simple questions about your girlfriend’s style, tastes, and favorite things and we’ll tell you the perfect Valentine’s Day gift for her!

What is the most worn item in her closet?
A. It’s hard to pick. She always nails the dress code and wows with a cool new number.
B. A pair of Nike sneakers. Her impressive collection of sneakers serves both function and fashion purposes.
C. A leather moto jacket. In her t-shirt, jeans and this jacket, she looks like a totally awesome badass.
D. A perfectly cut blazer. She throws it over any dress and looks smartly poised to take on the workday.
E. A wide-brimmed floppy hat. Any outfit—from her flowy maxi dresses to her wide-leg jeans—is topped with this adorable hat.

How does she take her coffee?
A. Do not talk to her before she’s sipped her extra foam latte.
B. With butter—or ghee. Her metabolism-boosting Bulletproof Coffee really jumpstarts her day.
C. Iced. Even in the winter months, she’s all about iced coffee.
D. With a splash of skim milk. She is a no-muss, no-fuss kind of woman.
E. She prefers a hot green tea to start the day.

It’s her turn to pick the restaurant for date night. Where are you two going?
A. The impossible-to-get-in, newly opened Asian fusion restaurant where she somehow got a reservation.
B. A Mexican spot near her gym for shrimp tacos and a well-deserved post-workout margarita.
C. A downtown dive where they spin vinyl and you can shoot pool.
D. A sleek hotel bar for expertly mixed cocktails.
E. A hip vegetarian spot that serves a veggie burger that tastes just like a beef burger.

What was her New Year’s resolution?
A. To finish redecorating her apartment.
B. To run the city marathon.
C. To learn how to play the guitar.
D. To find more balance between work and her personal life.
E. To travel more.

What is her dream vacation?
A. A romantic trip to Paris, complete with shopping and lots of macarons
B. A week-long yoga retreat in sunny Tulum, Mexico
C. A visit to Berlin to scope out their cool street style and underground music scene
D. A beach town getaway for a relaxing break from the go-go city life
E. A low-key weekend in Portland to explore all their quirky home-goods shops.

 

ANSWER KEY

MOSTLY A’S
For the Glamazon, give her a Cartier Love Bracelet.
Your glamorous girlfriend is full of surprises. She’s interesting, exciting to be with and always knows about cool new restaurants and bars to check out. You feel like an A-lister when you two hit the town, so the most suitable Valentine’s Day gift is a Cartier Love Bracelet. A longtime favorite of celebs, this elegant bracelet will delight her and make for the perfect dazzling addition to her wardrobe.

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MOSTLY B’S
For the Athlete, splurge on a Rolex Datejust watch.
A natural-born athlete, your S.O. is full of pep and energy. Her healthy outlook and can-do attitude is contagious and her optimism makes you feel like you, too, can take on the world. This Valentine’s Day, surprise her with a Rolex Datejust. This classic design has an elevated sporty flair, so it will pair well with her Lululemon leggings as well as her usual work attire.

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MOSTLY C’S
For the downtown rocker, get her an Hermès Collier de Chien bracelet.
Your partner is a total rockstar to you. She’s so nonchalantly cool that she almost feels out of your league. Fortunately, you two have bonded over your affection for rock legends like The Smiths and The Ramones. Instead of giving her another vinyl record, we suggest gifting her an Hermès Collier de Chien bracelet. The leather bracelet with its iconic hardware makes for an edgy look. While she may not be one for designer labels, your girlfriend will rock this bracelet with pride.

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MOSTLY D’S
For the Executive, treat her to a Cartier watch.
You deeply admire your girlfriend. She’s clever, witty and an ambitiously hard worker who astounds you with her business acumen. In turn, get her Valentine’s Day gift that suits her smart and elegant style: a Cartier watch. This classic timepiece looks sharp with office ensembles and off-duty weekend looks. She’ll treasure it—and wear it—forever.

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MOSTLY E’S
For the Bohemian, surprise her with a David Yurman Cuff.
An artist and romantic at heart, your significant other is a loveable free spirit. This year, give her a David Yurman Cable Classics Cuff that she can stack or wear solo and easily incorporate into her eclectic wardrobe. She will also revel in the love story of artist-turned-jeweler David Yurman and his wife and muse Sybil who collaborated to perfect the bracelet’s design.

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15 Valentine’s Day Gifts for Him

We pick our 15 favorite Valentine’s Day gifts for him, perfect for your relationship milestones and based on how long you’ve been dating.

3 Months – A Handsome Tie Bar
Although your relationship is fairly new, it’s pretty serious. You’ve introduced them to your parents, and your best friends strongly approve, gushing, “You guys are so perfect together!” This Valentine’s Day, give him a romantic but low-key gift like a pair of handsome cufflinks, tie bar or money clip.


6 Months – An Everyday Watch
Your relationship is rock steady. You share inside jokes that no one else understands and pick up on each other’s weird-yet-endearing quirks, like his inability to say “quinoa.” Now that you know each other so thoroughly, surprise him with a watch that suits his everyday look. A budget-friendly watch is a sweet gift that will serve as a daily reminder of how much he’s loved.


1 Year – A Dress Watch
Congratulations on hitting this important milestone anniversary! You and your BF are a real power couple. You’ve become a formidable team, working well together on everything from strategizing your next career move to dividing and conquering dinner meal prep—you chop, he cleans. Commemorate this significant year with an elegant dress watch that he’ll treasure forever.


5 Years – A Designer Watch
You and your partner are totally locked in and synced up. You have essentially created your own language—a combination of real words, inside jokes and silly voices—and can non-verbally relay messages with the simple arch of an eyebrow. Celebrate your five years—and counting!—with a sentimental gift with a real wow-factor: a designer watch.


10 Years – A Collectible Watch
Wow, ten whole years! While you have your comforting day-to-day routines, you two have not lost an ounce of that giddy love for each other; he still surprises you with flowers just because it’s Wednesday and you excitedly skip the last step running up your apartment stairs to see him every night. This Valentine’s Day, treat him to a luxurious watch that he can wear every day or breakout for special occasions—which, to him, means dinner out with you.

20 Valentine’s Day Gifts for Him & Her

We rounded up our 20 favorite gifts from TrueFacet Brand Boutique that will delight your Valentine and perfectly suit their style and taste!

For the wanderlust globetrotter who is always adding pages to their passport…
We love these pieces by Mimi So, Misahara and Faberge for their whimsical and other-worldly appeal that perfectly suits someone who has explored all the corners of the globe. To wit: Mimi So’s Wonderland Collection borrows from fairytale books and imagery to create a playful mix of rings and necklaces that still boast exceptional craftsmanship.


For the thrill-seeking adventurer who loves the great outdoors…
Durable and robust, these rugged-yet-polished watches by Traser and Tockr are built to last—the ideal camping buddy for someone who loves to sleep under the stars. Traser watches, in particular, are crafted for heavy-duty use and already the brand of choice for emergency and rescue teams who rely on Traser’s functional sophistication and core Trigalight technology.


For the history buff who does not need another Ken Burns box set…
Skip the documentary DVDs this year. Instead, surprise them with a watch with a long history of their own: Arnold & Son’s founder gained notoriety after presenting the smallest repeating watch to King George III in 1764; Bovet 1822 created and dominated the Chinese watch market throughout the early 19th century; and German brand Tutima has endured some of the most jarring historic world events in its 90-year history.


For the tinkerer who can always fix your car, laptop, and various home appliances…
If your significant other is fascinated by mechanics and engineering, they’ll revel in one of these delightfully complex watches. HYT, for instance, developed a radical and mind-bending hydro-mechanical watch movement that was inspired by the ancient water clock.


For the trendsetter who definitely already has reservations at the hottest new restaurant for Valentine’s Day…
Treat your fashionable loved one to a sleek new accessory this Valentine’s Day. We particularly love the diversity of these brands’ designs: Dana Rebecca Designs delicate pieces were built for layering, mixing and matching and Frederique Constant’s traditional designs secretly house smart technology.


For the sweetheart who always leaves you hidden notes around the house…
If you regularly have “I love you” notes hidden in your sock drawer or tucked into your glove box, reciprocate the sentiment with pieces from Phillips House, The Expression and NANIS. These designs are engraved with sweet messages or carry a deeply personal meaning behind it.


For the ultimate romantic at heart…
To absolutely wow your Valentine, spoil them with these luxe gifts that are so impressive they hardly need an introduction.

Inside the TrueFacet Authentication Process

As a watch and fine jewelry marketplace, TrueFacet connects sellers and interested buyers in a safe and secure online space. Our ultimate goal is to protect our shoppers from unwittingly purchasing a fake watch or piece of jewelry online. To that end, TrueFacet employs a team of experienced watch and jewelry experts who examine every item sold on TrueFacet to valuate its authenticity.

We walk through the exhaustive valuation process that every item sold on TrueFacet undergoes before it is shipped to you.

Cross-Referencing Paperwork
Upon receipt, the absolute first step for our authentication team is to thoroughly review any paperwork included in the shipment.

Watches in particular are well documented by the manufacturer and are sold with a Certificate of Authenticity, a warranty card and an instruction booklet. The TrueFacet team will cross-check the watch’s serial number and confirm it matches the number listed in the enclosed paperwork.

As for jewelry, there may be a Certificate of Authenticity from a brand or appraisal documents included in the shipment. Certified appraisals are often used for insuring jewelry and list a detailed description of the item (including any gemstone treatment information) and the overall value.

Pre-owned watches and jewelry sold with their original paperwork and certified appraisals will fetch a higher resale value so there is financial incentive for counterfeiters to forge these materials—fortunately our experts are here to quickly vet any questionable paperwork.

Judging the Piece
Before our team delves into their full-scale authentication process, they can quickly suss out a dubious item by simply handling it. The weight of an item is a tip-off to its authenticity. The luxury and designer watches and jewelry carried by TrueFacet are often made with precious metals which are largely heavier than non-precious metals used by forgers. So, if an item is perceptibly too light, its authenticity is immediately called into question.

Examining Inside a Watch
Step three in the authentication process is a close visual inspection of the watch to ensure all the parts are original, both inside and out. It takes an incredibly trained eye to know the difference between a genuine designer watch and a convincing replica. Our internal team has handled thousands of watches and this exacting training has conditioned them to identify the minute, distinguishing details that brands invest in but forgers skimp on. As they explain, “the devil is in the details” so everything from the types of screws to the pattern of the matte stainless steel finish is examined for inconsistencies.

Our watch authenticators will also use a time-grapher, a tool that is like a stethoscope and listens to the beat of the watch. This helps determine the condition of the watch and establish if the watch is beating too fast or slow.

Interpreting the Jewelry’s Signatures and Stamps
When it comes to valuating jewelry, our team studies the piece’s metal hallmarks and brand stamping. (To learn more about how to read and decode jewelry hallmarks, read our post on the topic here.)

These identifying signatures are different across brands and frequently change over time; in turn, our team possesses an incredible historical knowledge of luxury brands’ brand standards and manufacturing stamps.

As for unbranded jewelry (think custom, estate or vintage jewelry), our jewelry authenticators will conduct an acid or electronic metal test to determine what type of metal the item is made of. And for any jewelry with a precious stone like a diamond, the gemstone is reviewed under magnification for quality and measured for weight estimations.

Getting a Second Opinion
TrueFacet’s authentication team has a vast range of experience after handling tens of thousands of items in their careers. However, there are the occasional rare or unique items that surface and, should our team encounter an item they’re not familiar with, they turn to a network of experts to weigh in. From watchmakers to jewelers to other appraisers or even historians, this far-reaching network can cross-examine the piece and share their insight and expertise.

Through this rigorous authentication process, TrueFacet’s team is working tirelessly to ensure you receive a genuine item at an exceptional value. If you have any more questions, feel free to call us at 1-800-690-3736 or email support@truefacet.com and a concierge associate can explain more!

5 Reasons Why a Pre-Owned Rolex is a Smarter Investment

Throughout the watch industry, there has been a significant shift in how people shop for luxury watches, from Rolex to Patek Philippe to Audemars Piguet. The bygone era of brick-and-mortar stores have given way to a savvier crop of online shoppers who know how to maximize their investment on a fine Rolex timepiece: shopping pre-owned.

We explain the practical and financial benefits to shopping TrueFacet for a pre-owned Rolex watch to help you purchase the Rolex you’ve been coveting—and still save thousands of dollars.

1. Never incur the sharp depreciation cost of full-priced retail.
Just like driving a brand new car off the dealership lot, the value of a new Rolex watch depreciates the moment you take it out of the store. This immediate value drop makes shopping pre-owned a very attractive option for most Rolex collectors, allowing them to improve (if not increase) their return on investment and save thousands in both the short and long term.

2. Skip the waitlist.
Rolex produces roughly 1,000,000 watches a year. And while this makes Rolex one of the world’s biggest watch manufacturers, the incredibly high global demand makes select new Rolex models fairly hard to come by. To wit: the Rolex Daytona is still in production today, but, as one of Rolex’s most coveted models available, the waitlist is upwards of three years. Bypass the waiting period and opt for a pre-owned Daytona which you can receive and sport in as little as three days.

3. Capitalize on Rolex’s quality craftsmanship.
One reason skeptics site for shopping new over pre-owned is that a pre-owned Rolex watch has been worn and used. While this may discourage some wary shoppers, the reality is, luxury goods are built to last. (Hence why even decades-old Rolex watches are still running smoothly.) So provided that a Rolex watch has been cared for and well-maintained (even if it was worn frequently), there is no compromise in its quality as a timepiece. By eschewing the somewhat misguided stigma that “worn” means “worn out,” you can save yourself thousands of dollars on what remains a luxury watch.

4. Stretch your dollar and upgrade your Rolex collection.
If you’re only prepared to spend $5,000 on your watch but are eyeing one of Rolex’s premier models (think a Daytona or a Sea-Dweller that retail for easily over $10,000), opt for a pre-owned Rolex to help your budget go further. The retail prices for these models are firm but, when you explore pre-owned models, the available price range expands significantly and effectively pushes even Rolex’s top models into your budget.

5. Get the look—for a fraction of the cost.
Rolex’s designs have a distinct and distinguishing air about them and it is near impossible to articulate the mesmerizing effect of a Datejust’s fluted bezel or a GMT-Master II’s sporty and colorful dial. But something about these enduring and recognizable designs consistently draws devotees in and makes us all covet them.

However, the price tag of a new Rolex is a staggering barrier, regardless of how badly we yearn to sport a Submariner. Going the pre-owned route means you can revel in finally and proudly wearing a Rolex—without the associated post-purchase guilt that often comes with overspending on a full-priced model.

To learn more about shopping pre-owned Rolex watches, email us at support@truefacet.com or call 1-800-690-3736 and a TrueFacet concierge associate can guide you through the process or find you an investment-worthy style.

 

Understanding a Chronograph Watch

The concept of a chronograph is much older than one would think. The name, which translated from its original Greek roots means “time writer,” refers to the ancient practice of tracking time elapsed—in other words, using a stopwatch. While, before, it was done with pen marks on the dial, the process has become much more sophisticated and precise, which has endeared it to pilots and racecar drivers who need to keep exact time.

The chronograph function on luxury watches, while highly sought after, is often ignored, simply because it seems too difficult to use. We’ve put together this quick, top-level guide to understanding the basic chronograph function but always recommend you consult your specific watch model’s user manual as well—especially if you have a high-end chronograph watch which has its own mechanical nuances. Or, feel free to call our concierge experts at 1-800-690-3736 to walk you through the process!

Step 1: Figure out which parts of your watch are used for the chronograph function.
Luxury chronographs are often equipped with three sub-dials: one tracks hours elapsed (typically marked with a 12 at the 12:00 or 9:00 position, depending on the model) and one tracks minutes elapsed (marked with a 60 at the 12:00 or 6:00 position, again depending on the model). The last sub-dial is a seconds sub-dial, but this one actually tells the current time in seconds and is not part of the chronograph function. To measure seconds elapsed, you need to look at the second hand on the dial.

 

 

The two sub-dials and the second hand are controlled by the pusher(s) on the right side of your watch’s case. The top pusher, located at the 2:00 position, stops and starts the chronograph. The bottom pusher, which is located at the 4:00 position, resets the chronograph.

 

 

Step 2: Reset the chronograph.
If your chronograph is not a flyback, you have to manually wind the chronograph hand to 12 using the crown of the watch. If it is, then the process of resetting the watch becomes much easier.
On a flyback chronograph, there will be two pushers instead of one. With a simple push on the bottom pusher, the chronograph hand on the watch spins back to 12 on its own.

The chronograph must be reset after every use, because if not, it will simply resume measuring time from the point at which it stopped, which could throw your results.

Step 3: Measure time!
To start your chronograph, simply press the top pusher on your watch. The chronograph hand will measure the seconds, and once a minute has elapsed, the hand on the minute sub-dial will inch forward, and the hands will continue to move until you press the top pusher again to stop the chronograph.

As you can see, chronographs can truly be as simple as pushing a couple of buttons. Now you can start making the most out of your luxury chronographs! If you’re interested in purchasing a chronograph of your own, now that you know how to use it, peruse our selection of chronograph timepieces on TrueFacet Marketplace here.