Watches depreciate and appreciate at wildly different rates and, unlike a car with a Blue Book value, it can be incredibly complicated to determine a listing price for your pre-owned watch. To help you pin down a sales price, here are the factors that will affect the price of your pre-owned watch.

General Condition

The details of a watch’s condition and appearance are crucial in pin-pointing its price range. Functioning watches with all its original parts are the ideal, whereas non-working timepieces and ones refurbished with new parts (like a replaced dial, crystal or bracelet) are less desirable to shoppers.

If a watch has a patina (a thin film that covers certain precious metals after being exposed to oxygen for prolonged periods of time), it can actually increase the value in certain cases, provided that it does not otherwise affect the condition of the watch.

To zero in your particular watch’s value, cross-reference it with listings for the same model in roughly the same condition. And when you do list your watch, it is essential to include any replacement parts and minor damage that falls outside the range of normal wear-and-tear.

The Dial

The most important feature in determining a watch’s price is the dial. The dial’s overall appearance including the printing, logo, and hands can wildly sway the cost of a pre-owned watch.

One dial of particular interest to collectors are “Tropical Dials.” Tropical Dials are watches whose black dials have, over time, changed to brown. These collector pieces typically garner a higher price tag as authentic and even-wear is a rare find. However, uneven wear on the dial (spotty or non-uniform brown coloring) is an indicator of water damage that can create rust, functionality issues, and effectively lower the price.

The Crystal

After the dial, the state of crystal is the second most important factor in determining a pre-owned watch’s price. The crystal is the mineral glass that protects the dial and watch hands.

While a scratched crystal is not necessarily a deal-breaker, it’s worth noting because it may be an indication there are less visible issues with the watch’s condition and the dial. One vintage watch buyer explains, “If there are marks [seemingly on the crystal] but those marks stay in the same spot on the dial no matter the angle [at which you view the watch], it could be a dial issue—not a crystal issue.”

Therefore, when pricing your watch, a scratch on the crystal is not a make-it-or-break-it factor, but a scratch on the dial is. Again, it is crucial to note this crystal or dial scratch in your product description.

Stamps and Engravings

Always note the year, model, and country of origin in your watch’s listing to increase its price. Knowing the serial number is crucial too but do not list it publicly as counterfeiters are known for copying the serial numbers and stamping them on phony watches to give their forgeries an air of authenticity.

Also it’s worth noting if the watch had a famous previous owner or an interesting history that adds it to its sentimental (and ticket) value. However, excluding those with a storied past, most watches with personal engravings are usually dismissed by collectors and this can negatively affect the price.

The Case

The condition of a pre-owned case is becoming increasingly important to collectors. The case is the metal that houses the watch’s components. A vintage watch with an unpolished, original case oftentimes yields are higher price as they continue to appreciate at a higher rate than their polished counterparts.

Precious Metals

Plated metal does not age well. Pre-owned watches that are gold-filled or metal plated are not going to fetch the same price as a vintage watch made of pure precious metal. Timepieces made of stainless steel, sterling silver, platinum, or 14K or 18K gold will garner the best prices.

Box & Papers

Regardless of whether or not you’re planning on selling your watch, always keep your watch’s original box and authentication papers. They’re smart to keep on hand for your own records, and including the box and papers gives your listing a serious edge in both credibility and pricing.

If you are interested in selling a pre-owned watch, our customer service team is here to help. Contact them here for more information on how to list with TrueFacet.

Investing in the right jewelry is like investing in a beautiful piece of artwork.

Like an oil painting or sculpture, the benefit of investing in jewelry is that you can actually wear and enjoy it without compromising its value—provided you take the proper measures to care for it. Before you commit to an investment piece, it’s crucial to understand the quality and durability of fine jewelry specifically that makes it a worthy acquisition.

Brand Names with Staying Power
Jewelry does not necessarily need to be encrusted with diamonds or incredibly expensive to be a worthy investment.

Chanel costume jewelry is a perfect example; its widely recognizable brand name increases the overall value of the piece and continues to increase over time.

Similarly, Cartier jewelry appreciates in value over time. Their high-quality materials and craftsmanship, combined with the respected brand name, means Cartier pieces can be even more valuable in the future than their current retail price tag. According to Cartier spokesman, Philippe Besiss, Cartier jewelry has never sold at auction for less than its original price. Currently the top brands for investing are Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co. with Bulgari and Christian Dior pieces gaining popularity with investors and collectors alike.

Pieces also appreciate as they become more scarce in the market. Brands like Cartier and Boucheron actually buy up their older pieces to ensure they retain their value and will put them on exhibition versus back into the market. In turn, vintage designer pieces are very valuable—especially ones stamped with the brand’s signature.

With all that in mind, unbranded pieces can still retain their luxury value. Vintage Art Deco pieces made of diamond and platinum are hot ticket items because the linear designs blend in with modern wardrobes. Natural pearls are increasing in value over cultured pearls. Also older pieces with a substantial stone can be sold and reset in a new style to appeal to contemporary tastes can be particularly valuable.

Adjust for Inflation
The Cartier Love bracelet originally sold for $250 in 1970. Adjusted for inflation, $250 in 1970 has the same buying power as $1,500 today. A brand new Cartier Love bracelet costs $6,600. If you factor in the quality of the product and the power of the Cartier brand, a vintage Love bracelet from 1970 could sell for about the same price as a brand new one today.

To put this in perspective, minimum wage was $1.45 in 1970. That means, to buy a Cartier Love bracelet, you would need to work for 362.5 hours, or roughly nine 40-hour weeks. Today, with federal minimum wage at $7.25, you would need to work about 910 hours, or twenty-two 40-hour weeks. If only you had bought a Cartier Love bracelet 40 years ago, you would have saved a lot of time!

The Security of Gold
Gold jewelry is another strong investment opportunity. Unlike other trendier precious metals or stones, the demand for gold does not fluctuate greatly—rather its value has steadily increased over time. In 1975, one ounce of gold was worth $79. Today, it’s worth $1,153 an ounce, which, adjusted for inflation, is a 176% increase.

When shopping for investment-worthy gold pieces, look for items that are at least 18 karats. And when it comes time to unload your gold jewelry, timing is key. Be vigilant about following the market prices to ensure you receive the best value for it.

Invest in Time
The most important point to keep in mind when you’re investing in fine jewelry is: this is a long-term investment. It can take up to 30 years for your jewelry to appreciate. Investing in jewelry really requires patience and careful maintenance of the piece to retain its value and improve its resale value.

If you have any other questions about investing in fine jewelry, contact our customer service representatives and they can help.