Watches depreciate and appreciate at wildly different rates and, unlike a car with a Blue Book value, it can be incredibly complicated to determine a listing price for your pre-owned watch. To help you pin down a sales price, here are the factors that will affect the price of your pre-owned watch.

General Condition

The details of a watch’s condition and appearance are crucial in pin-pointing its price range. Functioning watches with all its original parts are the ideal, whereas non-working timepieces and ones refurbished with new parts (like a replaced dial, crystal or bracelet) are less desirable to shoppers.

If a watch has a patina (a thin film that covers certain precious metals after being exposed to oxygen for prolonged periods of time), it can actually increase the value in certain cases, provided that it does not otherwise affect the condition of the watch.

To zero in your particular watch’s value, cross-reference it with listings for the same model in roughly the same condition. And when you do list your watch, it is essential to include any replacement parts and minor damage that falls outside the range of normal wear-and-tear.

The Dial

The most important feature in determining a watch’s price is the dial. The dial’s overall appearance including the printing, logo, and hands can wildly sway the cost of a pre-owned watch.

One dial of particular interest to collectors are “Tropical Dials.” Tropical Dials are watches whose black dials have, over time, changed to brown. These collector pieces typically garner a higher price tag as authentic and even-wear is a rare find. However, uneven wear on the dial (spotty or non-uniform brown coloring) is an indicator of water damage that can create rust, functionality issues, and effectively lower the price.

The Crystal

After the dial, the state of crystal is the second most important factor in determining a pre-owned watch’s price. The crystal is the mineral glass that protects the dial and watch hands.

While a scratched crystal is not necessarily a deal-breaker, it’s worth noting because it may be an indication there are less visible issues with the watch’s condition and the dial. One vintage watch buyer explains, “If there are marks [seemingly on the crystal] but those marks stay in the same spot on the dial no matter the angle [at which you view the watch], it could be a dial issue—not a crystal issue.”

Therefore, when pricing your watch, a scratch on the crystal is not a make-it-or-break-it factor, but a scratch on the dial is. Again, it is crucial to note this crystal or dial scratch in your product description.

Stamps and Engravings

Always note the year, model, and country of origin in your watch’s listing to increase its price. Knowing the serial number is crucial too but do not list it publicly as counterfeiters are known for copying the serial numbers and stamping them on phony watches to give their forgeries an air of authenticity.

Also it’s worth noting if the watch had a famous previous owner or an interesting history that adds it to its sentimental (and ticket) value. However, excluding those with a storied past, most watches with personal engravings are usually dismissed by collectors and this can negatively affect the price.

The Case

The condition of a pre-owned case is becoming increasingly important to collectors. The case is the metal that houses the watch’s components. A vintage watch with an unpolished, original case oftentimes yields are higher price as they continue to appreciate at a higher rate than their polished counterparts.

Precious Metals

Plated metal does not age well. Pre-owned watches that are gold-filled or metal plated are not going to fetch the same price as a vintage watch made of pure precious metal. Timepieces made of stainless steel, sterling silver, platinum, or 14K or 18K gold will garner the best prices.

Box & Papers

Regardless of whether or not you’re planning on selling your watch, always keep your watch’s original box and authentication papers. They’re smart to keep on hand for your own records, and including the box and papers gives your listing a serious edge in both credibility and pricing.

If you are interested in selling a pre-owned watch, our customer service team is here to help. Contact them here for more information on how to list with TrueFacet.

It’s worth noting that watch collecting is not the same as investing in the stock market where you can easily plan out how to buy low and sell high to profit from your initial purchase. There are many factors that influence the future value of your watch, which means you cannot accurately calculate a return on investment. Here we outline those key determining factors and share our best shopping tips for timepieces that will best retain value.

Brand

There are several watch brands that are consistently in high demand. In turn, collectors and watch enthusiasts are willing to pay top dollar for a pre-owned brand-name watch, and this steady interest effectively closes the gap between the retail price and the resale price.

Patek Philippe, Rolex, A. Lange & Sohne, Vacheron Constantin, and Jaeger-LeCoultre are brands that retain the most value of its full retail price. For instance, if a Patek Philippe watch retails for $15,000, its resale value will likely fall somewhere around $12,000. This means it retained about 80% of its original value—and that is actually one of the strongest retention rates for watches.

That said, if you purchase a pre-owned Patek Philippe watch, you will not necessarily enjoy that 80% retention rate but you will avoid incurring that initial and staggering 20% resale value drop that comes with simply walking out the store doors. Therefore, we advocate for, whenever possible, shopping pre-owned watches over out-of-the-box models.

Model

(Left to right: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control, Rolex Submariner, Patek Philippe Calatrava)

Under those core watch brands, there are key models that most likely will keep their resale value:

Patek Philippe Calatrava
Patek Philippe Nautilus
Rolex Daytona
Rolex Submariner

Some other significant models from brands not listed above include:

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
Breitling Navitimer
Omega Speedmaster
Panerai Luminor Marina
TAG Heuer Carrera

The classic design and timeless appeal of these styles means you will have an easier time finding an interested buyer. And if we speak in broad strokes, for models not listed here, watches of an average case size, with an automatic Swiss movement, and made of quality and durable materials (like stainless steel) are more likely to retain a higher resale value. Alternatively, more elaborate complications may appeal to a smaller segment of watch collectors, which means it may take longer to resell and negatively influence its resale value.

Gender

There is far less demand for pre-owned women’s watches, so the resale value is much lower compared to men’s watches.

That said, when shopping for a women’s watch to later resell, opt for a very simple and timeless design like a Cartier Tank watch which retains its value well. Flashy watches are usually too trend-driven and, if the fad fades before you are able to resell it, can become very difficult to unload.

Release Date

Generally speaking, the newer the watch, the less time it has had to depreciate and the closer its resale price will match its retail price. Like investing in stocks, it is difficult to predict which contemporary or recently released models will appreciate in value. It takes about ten years minimum for a watch to appreciate in value. That is also assuming the watch is kept in perfect condition and, like the stock market, you buy and sell at just the right time.

There is currently a high demand for increasingly valuable vintage watches. As watch collecting has become a serious practice, collectors and enthusiasts alike are willing to pay a substantial amount for a rare or novel vintage watch.