White metals never truly go out of style when it comes to jewelry and with good reason. Colorless diamonds tend to like brightest against a white background which is why diamond jewelry is often set in metals like platinum or white gold.
But there are other white metals available including palladium, silver and titanium. We explore the different uses for each and why certain metals are used for setting diamonds and other precious gemstones over other white metals.
Platinum
Regardless of size, diamonds are a rare and expensive gemstone, so they are often set in platinum, an incredibly strong and heavy metal. Platinum’s combined malleability and resilience makes it an ideal option for setting precious gemstones.
Platinum also has a rare elemental property in that, while it may scratch, it never chips or wears away and never tarnishes. In turn, platinum jewelry does not need to be regularly serviced. The catch, however, is that platinum is a very heavy and expensive precious metal so the price tag can be a turnoff for interested shoppers.
White Gold
Like yellow gold, white gold is classified as a softer metal. But, unlike yellow gold, white gold is plated with rhodium, a precious metal that gives white gold its white-hot finish and acts as a protective. The rhodium plating is incredibly thin so it will wear over time, turning that mirror-like shine into a duller, yellower hue. White gold jewelry will require regular servicing to keep it polished and bright.
Even though it’s softer than platinum—and therefore makes for a weaker setting—white gold is more affordable which makes it a popular choice in jewelry making, particularly for diamond engagement rings or jewelry with lots of filigree, an ornate pattern or design made with incredibly fine white gold wire.
Palladium Ring with Bezel Set Diamond
Palladium
Palladium is a member of the platinum family and is often used as an alloying metal in platinum jewelry. On its own, palladium is slightly brittle so it does not securely hold gemstones in prongs (the little metal claws that secure a gemstone to a piece of jewelry). In turn, palladium is more typically used for channel or bezel settings that effectively surround the precious stone in the metal to keep it in place. Palladium is most commonly used for non-gemstone jewelry and is a popular choice with contemporary jewelry designers who want to use a less expensive precious metal in their designs.
Silver
While silver is the ideal metal for trendy and fashionable pieces of jewelry, it’s not a smart choice for setting expensive gemstones. Silver’s hardness makes it very difficult for jewelers to engrave silver jewelry with fine details or sculpt it into delicate shapes.
Silver also tarnishes very easily so you need to polish it regularly. (To keep your silver sparkling bright, read our expert tips for silver jewelry care here.) Although it is comparatively easy to polish all-sterling silver jewelry, the cleaning agents used clean silver are often too harsh for gemstones and could damage or discolor precious stones.
Titanium
Titanium is a nearly indestructible metal and its durability makes it a popular choice for use in accessories like watches or sunglasses. However, titanium is not recommended for use in jewelry making as its resilience (and greatest advantage) becomes its liability. Unlike other metals, titanium jewelry can’t be cut off your wrist or fingers, so, should your hands ever swell (think in the event of injury), a titanium ring may be effectively stuck on you.
If you have more questions about the pros and cons of white metal jewelry, read our post “Platinum, Silver and White Gold: Which is Best?” here.
Main image courtesy of Taylor & Hart.