If you’re interested in watches, then you are interested in horology (the art of watchmaking). It’s an odd term, but essentially, horology (horlogerie in French) is the study (or science) of time or watches.
Prefaced by the French term “haute,” haute horology refers to the absolute finest of high watchmaking. But defining haute horology is not so simple. To begin with, not all luxury watches are haute horology watches, nor do watches have to be highly complicated to be considered haute horology. In fact, perhaps the single defining characteristic of haute horology comes in the craftsmanship and finishing of a timepiece.
Haute horology revolves around the art of high watchmaking.
The term haute horology really only came into existence in the late 1970’s when fine Swiss watchmakers were looking for a term to differentiate their high-end mechanical timepieces from the plethora of quartz watches coming onto the market. Their focus was on demonstrating their watchmaking skills, including artistic merit, mechanical precision, complicated calibers, meticulous finishing, and only the finest quality.
Over the past half a century, the term haute horology continues to evolve, and sometimes has even the finest watch collectors arguing about whether or not a fine watch is a haute horology piece. As such, there has been an ongoing struggle to define haute horology, which has led to the formation of a number certifications, such as the Qualité Fleurier (for watchmakers in the Fleurier region of Switzerland), the Geneva Seal (also known as the Hallmark of Geneva for watch brands in that region), and others, that act as guidelines for fine watchmaking.
A master watchmaker’s tools are like magic when it comes to assembling and finishing high horology movements.
Just last year, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), which was founded in 2005 in Switzerland to maintain and preserve the tradition of haute horlogerie, issued the “White Paper.” Much like the fashion industry’s haute couture designation (which has government issued rules surrounding its use), it had become important to establish a set of rules to help define haute horology and identify fine watchmaking brands. The FHH took it upon itself to help define the term, and evaluated more than 80 brands, finally naming 64 that fit the bill, including historic maisons, contemporary brands and independent artisanal creators.
The White Paper on Fine Watchmaking (which, along with the accompanying evaluations, took three years to complete) establishes principles in seven areas of expertise and measures brands across those principles, among them: R&D, design, production, the production of in-house-made movements, movement finishing and decoration, and quality.
The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie has issued guidelines for haute horology in the form of the White Paper on Fine Watchmaking.
So, in the end what defines an Haute Horology brand? A multitude of factors that come together in a brand’s highest watch offerings. Typically more than one of these factors are combined in an haute horology watch and often, several need to be present to demonstrate a brand’s exceptional prowess at the craft of watchmaking.
5 Factors Influencing Whether or Not a Watch is Haute Horology
1. Legacy. The heritage and history of the company and the brand. In the case of younger, emerging independent brands, legacy revolves around the innovative concepts employed by the contemporary brands.
2. In-House Movements. Whether or not, and to what degree, the brand makes its own movements in house, and how complicated those movements are. Typically the finest and most difficult feats in watchmaking are considered haute horlogerie, including astronomical complications (equation of time, precise moon phases, etc.), tourbillons, repeaters and sonneries, perpetual calendars, chronograph rattrapantes, and grand complications, among others.
3. Finishing. Finishing refers to the work that goes into nearly every component inside the watch – whether or not it is visible via a transparent case back. Finishes include angling, perlage, guilloche and so many more — all of which requires dozens of hours of hand craftsmanship. Essentially, no watch is deemed haute horology without extensive hand finishing.
Incredible detailing and finishing goes into the making of a haute horlogerie movement.
4. The Art of Fine Watchmaking. Generally, to be haute horology, the brand should use at least one, if not more, of the arts of fine watchmaking– engraving, enameling, gem setting and more.
5. Craftsmanship and Quality. Generally, for a watch to be considered haute horology, it is hand crafted with the utmost attention to every detail inside and out. These watches are hand-finished and hand-assembled.
One last note about haute horology watches, if you think a fine watch is expensive, an haute horology watch is even more expensive… and well worth the money.