Late last year, Patek Philippe celebrated the 40th anniversary of their highly popular model the Nautilus. Introduced in 1976, the Nautilus was the first luxury sports watch created by the Swiss manufacturer, who previously, was known for their elegant high-end dress watches. The Nautilus’ debut signaled the willingness of the company to keep up with the growing trend of a more casual lifestyle.
The Inaugural Patek Philippe Nautilus: Ref. 3700/1A
The Nautilus was designed by renowned designer Gérald Genta. According to Genta, he sketched the Nautilus in five minutes in a restaurant where Patek Philippe executives were also coincidentally dining at a nearby table. Whether this is fact or embellished folklore, what is certain is that Gérald Genta’s blueprint has now become one of the brand’s greatest designs.
Genta’s design was a bold departure from other watches in the marketplace. Specifically the Nautilus Ref. 3700/1A sported a large and rugged stainless steel case presented on a stainless steel bracelet when most luxury watches at the time featured a slim gold case with a leather strap.
The Nautilus Ref. 3700/1A’s distinguishing and nautically-themed traits included: the porthole inspired case structure, the rounded octagonal bezel, the horizontal embossed pattern on the dial, and the integrated steel bracelet. These attributes are still a part of the Nautilus’ iconic look today and are the reason that the Patek Philippe sports watch is so recognizable and coveted.
Important Nautilus Models Throughout its History
Throughout its four-decade history, the Nautilus range has welcomed an assortment of different metals, sizes, and complications, while still staying true to its fundamental design. Here’s a timeline of some key highlights and important Nautilus models throughout its history.
1980: Ref. 4700/51J First Ladies’ Nautilus
1996: Ref. 3800/1JA First Nautilus with Roman numerals
1996: Ref. 5060/S First Nautilus with a leather strap
1998: Ref. 3710/1A First Nautilus with a complication (winding zone indicator)
2005: Ref. 3712/1A First Nautilus with moon phase display and power-reserve indicator
2006 (30th Anniversary): Ref. 5980/1A First Nautilus with chronograph
2010: Ref. 5726A First Nautilus with an annual calendar
2015: Ref. 7118/1A First automatic Ladies’ Nautilus
The Nautilus 40th Anniversary Collection
To mark the important anniversary, Patek Philippe introduced two 40th limited edition Nautilus models in October 2016: the Ref. 5711/1P and the Ref. 5976/1G.
The platinum Nautilus Ref. 5711/1P’s watchcase spans 44mm in width (including the crown). The dark blue embossed dial houses 12 baguette diamonds as hour markers, the “40” and “1976-2016” labels at 6 o’clock, and a date window at 3 o’clock. The transparent caseback of the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1P showcases the automatic 324 S C caliber within, boasting an accuracy rate of -3 to +2 seconds. With only 700 in circulation, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1P retails for $113,440.
The Nautilus Ref. 5976/1G—limited to 1,300 pieces and retailing for $96,390—is a bigger and more complicated timepiece compared to its sibling. Crafted in 18K white gold, the case width measures 49.25mm, including the crown. The Nautilus Ref. 5976/1G is a flyback chronograph, with a pair of chronograph pushers flanking the crown. In addition to the date window at 3 o’clock the dark blue dial of the Nautilus Ref. 5976/1G includes a monocounter at 6 o’clock as well. This clever concentric counter encompasses three different scales in a small space: the 12-hour, the 1-30 minute, and the 31-60 minute counter. The indexes on this particular anniversary Nautilus are marked with baguette and princess-cut diamonds. The Nautilus Ref. 5976/1G also features the “1976-40-2016” anniversary mark on the dial. Driving the time, date, and chronograph functions of the Ref. 5976/1G is the self-winding CH 28-520 C caliber, which can be admired via the sapphire crystal caseback.
As we would expect from Patek Philippe, the dual commemorative models are impressive timepieces, worthy of this significant milestone in the ongoing story of the Nautilus.
Photo Credit: fratellowatches.com /thejewelleryeditor.com / perpetuelle.com / timeandwatches.com / robbreport.com / masterhorologer.com / patek.com