The Salon International de la Haute Horologie, SIHH, is the most current and modern of all watch collections from the best watchmakers in the world. Since this is a conference of all things haute, the SIHH watch show presents the most elaborate versions of the latest trends. From the diamond encrusted to avant garde watch designs, the show is never boring. Check out our favorite new trends to find out what might end up on your wrist.
1. Open Worked and Skeletonized
This trend was everywhere and it seemed every watchmaker wanted to make their mark on the skeleton designs. Audemars Piguet’s edition of the Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie was one of the most talked about of the show. At last year’s SIHH AP presented research for the acoustics to improve the quality and volume of chiming functions. This, year the watch was officially released and the movement is housed with a skeletonized dial. AP also introduced an open worked Royal Oak featuring a double balance wheel, which makes the watch even more accurate.
Audemars Piguet wasn’t the only watchmaker experimenting with the skeleton trend. Panerai, Richard Mille, Roger Dubuis, Cartier and Piaget all tried their hand. Piaget’s Emperador Coussin XL 700P was an interesting concept watch with ties to the brand’s heritage. Piaget not only produces their own mechanical movements in-house, but also produces their quartz movements in-house. For this concept watch, Piaget displayed a mechanical caliber and quartz-driven regulator with a skeletonized dial.
2. Carbon
Perhaps it’s better to call this the next big trend. At the show, Roger Dubuis released the Excalibur Automatic Skeleton Carbon. Though watchmakers like Richard Mille and Audemars Piguet began working with carbon earlier, Roger Dubuis brought the skeletonized look to a sportier watch. The case is made from carbon mixed with resin around a titanium skeleton. This makes the watch much lighter than metal cases. The technique used for the carbon also solves a problem with using the material in watchmaking — it prevents watch from being too large as is common when using carbon.
3. Mysterious Movements
Cartier released a total of six new watches. All were beautifully made, either highlighting magnificent jewelry design or mechanical expertise. We loved the aptly named Panthère Mystérieuse for its combination of stunning jewelry design and watchmaking skill that can only come from Cartier. The piece features a gem-encrusted panther curled around the signature mystery dial.
Though not technically a watch, Richard Mille presented an interesting novelty in the form of a mechanical fountain pen. The fountain pen is made of carbon fiber with the movement, made mostly of titanium, housed in sapphire crystal at the top of the pen. The movement is based on a minute repeater, and when the button is pushed at the top, a series of gears triggers the tip of the pen to move out of the barrel.
4. Artistic Design
This show features the best of watchmaking and that doesn’t just include the mechanics, but also the finest design techniques. Several watchmakers highlighted their best gem-setting, enameling and carving on beautiful watches. Extremely ornate items were a must. Cartier released a striking moonphase timepiece that is as beautiful as it is mechanically impressive. The bezel is 18k white gold set with 68 brilliant-cut diamonds while the dial is set with an additional 118 brilliant-cut diamonds and 28 sapphires.
Montblanc released a travelling themed collection called 4810, the height of the mountain the company is named after. We are especially fond of the ExoTourbillon Slim 110 Years Limited Edition. This watch features a stunning hand-painted dial which took a week to complete. The dial is available with maps of Asia, North America or Europe.
Finally, Vacheron Constantin released a new addition to the Fableaux Ornamental collection (featured image of this post) which interprets motifs from various cultures through enameling, engraving and gem setting. The newest releases at SIHH interpret Chinese embroidery, Ottoman architecture and French lace among others.
5. Elaborate Women’s Watches
Women’s watches at the show were dazzling and decked in diamonds. No watchmaker held back and treated the women’s watches as a piece of fine jewelry. Some watchmakers used diamonds as compliment, like Jaeger-LeCoultre when decorating the cast of the women’s Reverso. However, some watchmakers took the opposite approach, like Cartier. With a new collection called Hypnose, Cartier introduced several new watches. These watches consist of nested ovals layered atop eachother for a visual illusion. Black lacquer and pave diamond-encrusted ovals amplified the effect.
Though Piaget’s Limelight Gala collection used fewer diamonds than the Cartier Hynose, we still enjoyed the look. The unique, asymmetrical case was highlighted beautifully by the diamond bezel. A sleek, mesh bracelet was simple and striking to complete the look with understated glamour.
Photo Credit: watchtime.com / timeandwatches.com / hodinkee.com