Author: TrueFacet

TrueFacet is an online marketplace for pre-owned fine jewelry and watches. Every item sold is verified by our in-house team of gemologists and watch experts to ensure its authenticity.

Something Blue: The History of Wedding Traditions

Surreptitious or not, you may be following old traditions on your wedding day for good luck or even just for fun. “Something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue, a silver sixpence in her shoe.” This phrase is both an Old English rhyme and a supply list for every bride, minus the sixpence, an out-of-circulation British coin.

This wedding tradition warns that the bride must have the four items from the rhyme on her wedding day as tokens of good luck. We want you to be lucky on your day, so we’ve offered an explanation of each item on your wedding to-do list with suggestions for a perfect occasion.

1. Something Old
A wedding binds two lives to create a new, single life for the couple. An old item represents the past and traditions to ensure a bride’s connection to the past in her new life. A vintage brooch makes for the perfect “something old.” With a beautiful brooch you can get creative — use it to enhance your dress, wrap your bouquet or even bedeck your garter!

 

2. Something New
A new item is simply a symbol of an optimistic future for the bride in her new life. It’s a symbol of hope for a prosperous and happy life with her husband. Include a new jewelry item on your day for added shine and a token that will last long after the wedding. The endless possibilities include sybolic jewelry, like the Cartier Love bracelet, themed jewelry, like Chopard Happy Diamonds heart earrings, or simple accessories to compliment your bridal look.

 

3. Something Borrowed
This is an item you borrow from a close friend or family member, usually a happily married friend. For the superstitious, the borrowed item is supposed to transfer happiness from the successful couple. A borrowed item also symbolizes good fortune and happiness. Many brides use the dress or parts of the dress that their mother or grandmother wore, or maybe even the same veil. We can’t let you borrow anything, but we like the idea of sewing a meaningful cloth or fabric into the dress.

4. Something Blue
A blue item is a symbol for love, fidelity and purity. Before white wedding dresses became common bridal fashion, the color blue was popularly used. Before Queen Victoria insisted on wearing a white dress in her marriage to Prince Albert in 1840, blue was the color of most wedding dresses. Since sapphire symbolizes loyalty, we think sapphire jewelry is perfect for your “something blue.”

Photo Credit: weddbook.com / bridesonbudgets.com

Decoding Jewelry Hallmarks

When buying or examining jewelry, oftentimes there are a lot of markings on the back of the pieces. To help you understand these important stamps or jewelry hallmarks– and understand which metals are fine, pure, and worth the higher price tag– we outlined the most frequently used hallmarks.

What is the difference between carat and karat?

To clarify two frequently used terms: a carat refers to the weight of a stone and is used to describe diamonds or gemstones. A carat equals 200 milligrams.

A karat, meanwhile, is a unit measuring the purity of gold. Gold jewelry is most commonly an alloy metal or a mixture of pure gold and a second, bonding metal. While 24 karat or 24K gold is pure gold, 18 karat gold is 18 parts gold, 6 parts alloy metal—or, differently said, 75% pure gold.

These numbers, especially karats, are important to understand when examining jewelry for authenticity and to recognize the specifications of your jewelry. On most quality jewelry, the specifications of your jewelry (like gold karat) will appear as a hallmark, or a stamp (or several) on the back or underside of the piece. Hallmarks connote the purity or fineness of the precious metals.

Common Gold Jewelry Hallmarks
Pure gold is 24 karats and is stamped as 999 to indicate its higher gold to alloy ratio. As we move down the scale of gold purity, 20 karat gold is stamped as 833 to represent the 20:24 (or .833) gold to alloy ratio. To simplify the other commonly used gold hallmarks, here is a handy chart of the caratage hallmarks and the gold purity they correspond to:

 

Common Platinum Jewelry Hallmarks
Just like gold, platinum is measured by its fineness. But, unlike gold, platinum is not measured in karats. Instead, it is measured by its purity percentage. The fineness hallmarks for platinum are as follows:

 

Common Silver Jewelry Hallmarks
While silver is pure, sterling silver is an alloy of pure silver and another metal. Therefore when it comes to silver hallmarks, silver is measured by its fineness and marked accordingly. One sterling silver hallmark of particular note is the 925 stamp used by Tiffany & Co.; if this 925 mark is not included on your alleged Tiffany & Co. jewelry, it’s an immediate indication the item is fake. Here is a breakdown of the other common silver hallmarks:


How to Spot a Fake: Van Cleef & Arpels Jewelry

Van Cleef & Arpels is an iconic and beloved luxury jewelry brand. But its popularity means the Maison’s designs are frequently (and usually poorly) copied and peddled as the real thing. Stay sharp with our top five red flags that may mean those Van Cleef & Arpels jewels are fake.

 

1. Signature
Genuine Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry always includes a signature stamp. The stamp’s placement differs from piece to piece: rings’ stamps are pressed on the inside shank; earrings are marked on one or both of the ear clips; and for pieces from the Alhambra’s collection, the stamp appears on the gold edge of the quatrefoil (or clover station) closest to the clasp.

The stamp should read “Van Cleef & Arpels” or “VCA.” If your piece reads merely “Van Cleef,” it’s most likely a fake.

2. Hallmark
Van Cleef & Arpels uses only 18K gold. Therefore, like the signature, each piece is marked with the number “750” to indicate the metal is 75% pure.

3. Serial number
Like the signature stamp, each Van Cleef & Arpels piece has a unique serial number. The serial number should appear near the signature and hallmark stamp. If your piece has a serial number, you can call the manufacturer to cross-reference the stamped serial number and their records to ensure they match.

4. Quality
Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry is painstakingly produced by hand by expert craftsman, using only the best and highest-quality materials. That said, if your piece looks faded or lackluster, you should immediately be suspicious that it is a fake. Also any seemingly loose stones set in the quatrefoil Alhambra motif are another big red flag.

And if you’re curious, check out our post “The History of the Alhambra Collection” to see just how much time and effort is invested into each piece to ensure its perfect production.

5. Price
If you’re eyeing a Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra necklace and the price just seems to be too good to be true, it probably is. Van Cleef & Arpels pride themselves on the incredible amount of manpower dedicated to the flawless production of every single piece and this perfection comes with a steep price tag. So if a piece is ticketed at a comparatively inexpensive figure or is an outlier when you price compare, do not be fooled: there’s a good chance that’s a fake.

If you have further questions regarding TrueFacet’s authentication process, contact our concierge representative here.


Epic Oscars Jewelry

The best in film gathered at the Dolby Theater in Hollywood for the 2015 Oscars last night. We watched out for our favorite adornments, and this year, stunning statement jewelry won the award for Hollywood’s hottest jewelry trend. From necklaces to earrings to bracelets, if it wasn’t big and didn’t shine, it wasn’t on the red carpet. Here are five of our favorite statement pieces from the night.

1. Margot Robbie

Photo Credit: hollywoodreporter.com

Margot Robbie was stunning in a zipper tassel necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels. The necklace featured over 150 diamonds and 300 sapphires set in 19k yellow gold. This necklace was inspired by one worn by the Duchess of Windsor in the 1930s, according to Margot.

2. Gwyneth Paltrow

Photo Credit: hollywoodreporter.com

Gwyneth Paltrow wore Fire Phoenix earrings by Anna Hu Haute Joaillerie. These earrings featured cabochon rubellite, white and yellow diamonds, pink and purple sapphires, spinels and paraiba Tourmalines set in white gold. The presenter’s ring, also by Anna Hu, was a rare, pigeon-blood Burmese ruby with pink and white diamonds set in rose and white gold.

3. Cate Blanchett

Photo Credit: celebmafia.com

Cate Blanchett wore a simple, black dress at the Oscars, but coupled it with a statement necklace. The eye-catching, turquoise choker will be featured in the upcoming Tiffany & Co. Blue Book. The necklace consisted of turquoise and aquamarine stones with diamonds in round, rectangular and square cuts, set in platinum.

4. Emma Stone

Photo Credit: Getty Images/ Steve Granitz

Emma Stone wore identical rose-cut diamond wrist cuffs. The cuffs were 18k yellow and white gold from Tiffany & Co. She also wore emerald-cut diamond stud earrings set in platinum, also from Tiffany.

5. Scarlett Johansson

Photo Credit: Getty Images

Scarlett Johansson’s beautiful, emerald bib necklace is just part of the dress design by Versace. Along with the necklace, the actress wore a Piaget ear cuff featuring emeralds, diamonds, aquamarines and green tourmalines, set in pink gold.

The History of Chanel Jewelry

While Coco Chanel’s ready-to-wear designs (labeled under the House of Chanel) were understated, her jewelry was bold, flashy and highly ornate. We explore the history of Chanel jewelry, the most influential jewelry designers behind the Chanel brand, and how they, alongside Coco Chanel, revolutionized the costume jewelry industry.

The 1920s Perception of Fine vs. Costume Jewelry 

Until Chanel arrived on the fashion scene in the later 1920s, only the wealthy could afford jewelry as it was made nearly exclusively with precious stones and fine metals, and even still, the high cost of jewelry meant women could only wear one to two pieces. Meanwhile, costume jewelry was a sort of style faux-pas and looked-down upon as being only for women who couldn’t afford the real thing. Although Chanel had an impressive fine jewelry collection of her own, bestowed to her by her adoring suitors, she preferred mixing fine pieces with costume jewelry. Chanel was notorious for layering on ropes of faux-pearls and necklaces that contrasted beautifully against her minimalist designs.

The Introduction of the Chanel Maltese Cross Cuff

For her own line of costume jewelry, Chanel turned to Duke Fulco di Vedura. In 1927, Fulco was working for Chanel as a textile designer but Chanel quickly noticed his talented eye and asked him to update the settings of her own fine jewelry. Soon after, Chanel made Fulco the head designer of Chanel jewelry, a post he would hold for eight years.

Portrait of Coco Chanel wearing her Maltese Cross Cuffs

Together, Chanel and Fulco designed the now iconic Chanel Maltese Cross motif. The cross design (also known as the Almalfi cross) was loosely inspired by the star of the Knights of Malta. In Fulco’s interpretation, the Maltese cross was filled with multi-color semiprecious stones and set upon a mismatched pair of white enamel bracelets. Chanel adored these bracelets, added them to her personal wardrobe and wore them constantly. The Chanel Maltese Cross cuffs became commercially available around 1930 and have remained a mainstay of the Chanel jewelry collection since.

Chanel, Fine Jewelry, and the Bijoux de Diamants

In 1932, Chanel began experimenting with her first and only fine jewelry collection, dubbed the Bijoux de Diamants. The traditional fine jewelry designers largely scoffed at her foray, criticizing her designs and dismissing her as a simple dressmaker and costume-jewelry designer. The Chanel house did not dabble in fine jewelry until 1993 when the brand opened a fine jewelry and watch boutique in Paris’s Palace Vendome. To commemorate the event, Chanel released the original Bijoux de Diamants designs alongside their latest collection.

Rebuilding After World War II with Robert Goossens

In 1939, World War II was already underway and Chanel closed up her shop for the duration of the war. Chanel reopened her store at 31 Rue Cambon in 1954 and resumed production of her ready-to-wear and jewelry collections.

She turned to the French jeweler Robert Goossens to design her collection. Goossens’s father was a metal foundry worker and he had trained as an apprentice in jewelry making in his youth. Before collaborating with Chanel, Goossens was already well-known in the couture jewelry space, having designed for Rochas, Balenciaga, and even Chanel’s rival Elsa Schiaparelli, after being tapped by Cristóbal Balenciaga to design a Byzantine-style cross necklace for Balenciaga’s presentation.

Goossens shared Chanel’s love of mixing faux and semi-precious stones in his designs. He is best-known for designing a gold brooch with three pearls and a diamond which Chanel wore herself and replicated in her collection. Goossens would continue designing for the Chanel brand, even after Coco Chanel passed away in 1971.

Chanel Jewelry Today

Today, the Chanel brand still honors its costume jewelry origins and Coco Chanel’s fundamental beliefs that jewelry should be a healthy (if not playful) mix of fine and costume jewelry so the wearer can pile up inexpensive jewels that pair perfectly with their ensemble. Chanel herself was a pioneer in the trend of costume jewelry and the iconic designs are as popular today as they were when they debuted.

The Best of Baselworld

The world’s biggest exhibition in watchmaking and jewelry, Baselworld, is fast approaching. In March, over 150,000 visitors will gather in Basel, Switzerland for the annual showcase. Every year, the best watchmakers from around the world showcase their newest designs and trends, with over 1,500 brands in attendance. Baselworld’s history can be traced back to 1917, however, we decided to take a look back at the last five years and remember our favorite watches from the past.

2010: The Submariner in Steel

Our favorite from 2010 is this classic Rolex revamped. Originally showcased in Switzerland in 1954, this iconic Rolex was reissued five years ago in more durable and comfortable steel. Bolder and more dependable, this model was a big change for the best-selling timepiece.

2011: Aquanaut Travel Time

Photo: Hodinkee.com

The Patek Phillippe Aquanaut Travel Time was a standout sports watch in 2011. With a few additions to the Aquanaut, like a complication that allows you to switch between two time zones, this model was greatly improved. Casual and cool, this watch from Patek Phillipe made our list of favorites.

2012: “The First Omega In Space”

Photo: Hodinkee.com

“The First Omega in Space” Speedmaster from Omega was an homage to the Omega that Wally Schirra wore on the Mercury Atlas 8 mission in 1962. If you are a fan of vintage watches, this Omega accurately captures the essence of Schirra’s Speedmaster.

2013: La Chronometrie

Photo: A Blog to Watch

2013 gave us the Breguet La Chronometrie which improved upon the 2012 model. This watch was the first watch commercially available to use magnets for the escapement.

2014: TAG Heuer Carrera CH 80

Photo: A Blog to Watch

This watch from TAG Heuer impressed us with its in-house chronograph movements. The sleek and clean finish of the dial combined with its movement and great price, made this our favorite from last year.

Our Accessory Picks For New York Fashion Week

We know New York Fashion Week isn’t over yet, but we’ve already been inspired by all of the new ready-to-wear collections. With our best effort, we’ve tried to simplify your accessorizing dilemmas with our picks for five very different collections from the runway. From autumn amber to blizzard blue, we’ve got your accessory selection covered.

1. Chloé

Photo Vogue.co.uk

See by Chloé was the essence of autumn with shades of brown, orange and pink throughout the collection. We recommend gold and brown jewelry like this Chanel bracelet or these Cartier and Damiani rings.

2. Wes Gordon

Photo Harpers Bazaar

Wes Gordon’s collection brought us back to ‘90s grunge, but with a sophisticated twist. The collection was minimalist, so keep the jewelry simple. We recommend dark jewelry in purple or black like this black Damiani ring or this purple Chanel necklace.

3. Opening Ceremony

Photo Vogue.com

In another ‘90s-inspired show, Opening Ceremony’s collection featured cool tones and clean lines. We recommend simple, silver jewelry to compliment to the wintry chill, like these Piaget earrings, this Bvlgari ring or this Michael Kors watch.

4. John Elliott + Co.

Photo Women’s Wear Daily

John Elliot’s first runway collection was sporty and youthful with a muted color palette. Featuring greys and browns heavily, we recommend a simple watch like this frosted Fortis watch or this neutral Radiomir watch.

5. Todd Snyder

Photo Women’s Wear Daily

Todd Snyder’s collection was as cool as it was classic. Perfect for cold weather, this is a collection for style-conscious professionals. We recommend complimenting this modern look with a cool watch in all black like these Radiomir or Hubolt watches.

 

Insider Tips for Shopping Used Designer Jewelry and Watches Online

We run down the biggest red flags on the most commonly counterfeited luxury items: used designer jewelry, namely Cartier watches, Rolex watches, and Tiffany & Co. silver jewelry. Protect yourself from forged items by paying attention to these warning signs.

Cartier Watches

1. Weight. Cartier watches are produced with high-quality materials and, in turn, are noticeably heavier than a knock-off manufactured with sub-par, lightweight materials.

2. Glass. The face of a Cartier watch is made of scratch-resistant glass to protect it from everyday scrapes and nicks. Therefore, gently-worn, authentic Cartier watches should have virtually no scratches or imperfections on the face. If you’re able to, pour a droplet of water onto the glass; if the water beads instead of smears, the watch is likely authentic.

3. Logo. As you scrutinize the details looking for signs of a forgery, it can be easy to overlook something as obvious as a misspelled logo. Carefully read the logo on the watch face and compare its script typeface to an authentic Cartier logo.

4. Adhesive. Cartier does not use adhesive to affix its parts together. Inspect the edges of your watch to see if there are any traces of glue residue that may indicate this is a fake.

5. Gemstone. A Cartier watch’s crown is set with a gemstone which should be securely placed and not glued into its position.

6. Serial Number. Every Cartier watch has a serial number engraved on the side. To verify the piece’s authenticity, call the manufacturer and cross-reference the listed serial number with Cartier’s official records which should match your watch model.

Rolex Watches

1. Magnification of Date. If you have a Rolex watch with a date on the front, carefully inspect the date’s magnification. Rolex adds a magnifying glass that enlarges the extremely small date window by about two and a half times. Forged Rolex watches often have fakes with no or a smaller magnification.

2. Ticking Sounds. Rolex watches do not make loud ticking noises. If you hear a standard ticking, the watch is definitely fake.

3. The Case Back. A Rolex with a clear case back is most likely a fake—unless it’s a rare vintage model from the 1930s. There is also no engraving on the exterior of a Rolex, but there is engraving on the interior’s side.

Tiffany & Co. Jewelry

1. Weight. Tiffany & Co. jewelry is heavier than counterfeit pieces which rely on inexpensive (and lighter) materials to recreate Tiffany & Co.’s designs.

2. Soldered Links. If you’re handling a Tiffany & Co. chain bracelet or necklace, study the links which should be soldered and never pinched together. Gaps or unsealed links are a good indication the piece is a fake.

3. Stamps and Engravings. Look for a stamp of “T & Co. 925” or “Tiffany & Co. 925.” The 925 indicates that the piece is sterling silver. Each silver piece should have its own stamp. So, if you have a bracelet with a pendant, the clasp of the bracelet and the pendant should each have the stamp. If not, then your item may be a fake. And double-check for misspellings and that the engraved letters are clear, aligned and evenly spaced.

4. Tiffany Blue Packaging. Tiffany & Co.’s signature “Tiffany Blue” is actually a trademarked color (Pantone PMS Number 1837) and counterfeiters may try to replicate the color without success. Also Tiffany & Co. jewelry comes in a suede cloth bag inside its box. Forged jewelry may be in an inexpensive velvet bag, stamped to look like an authentic bag.

If you have more questions about the authenticity of your watch or fine jewelry, contact a TrueFacet Concierge representative.


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