Author: TrueFacet

TrueFacet is an online marketplace for pre-owned fine jewelry and watches. Every item sold is verified by our in-house team of gemologists and watch experts to ensure its authenticity.

Behind the Scenes: Bulgari Jewelry

World-renowned jewelers have similar stories: a century ago the founder began his career as a jeweler and was a master of his trade. That man earned a reputation and his children and grandchildren expanded the company and built upon that reputation. That’s the story of Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Damiani and Bulgari, to name a few.

Though the reputation of these jewelers may have been built by Louis Cartier, Charles Tiffany, Enrico Damiani and Sotirios Voulgaris, a reputation is not enough to remain one of the most prominent jewelers in the world over 100 years later. We’ve written about the beginning of the Bulgari brand, but what does Bulgari do in the 21st century to preserve its legacy?

Bulgari jewelry first and foremost innovates and evolves, creating timeless fashions that reflect the time in which they were created. In the ‘80s and ‘90s Bulgari made cabochons, bright colors and precious and semi-precious combinations a trademark. The structure and boldness of the ‘80s gave way to the monochrome subtleness of the ‘90s.

Now, in the 21st century, Bulgari has made a more distinct evolution and has departed from the norms of its own previous style in high jewelry. Yellow gold and spherical gave way to white gold, platinum and two-dimensional, openwork designs.

Though the evolution appears drastic, Bulgari has remained true to what it does best: the creative use of cabochons, yellow gold, beautiful gemstones and wearability.

The family vision of Bulgari is paramount. Paolo Bulgari, great-grandson of Sotirios and current chairman, selects the gems, often by touch alone without looking at them first. Then he creates color combinations — a Bulgari trademark — that are often surprising and unexpected, but beautiful nonetheless. The jewels are then taken to the designers and then the artisans carefully craft the precious jewels. The hands-on methodology is one of the cornerstones of the Bulgari process.


Bulgari’s innovation does not stop at high jewelry. The company has expanded its watch division to compete with the best of Swiss watchmakers. When Bulgari first introduced its iconic watch collection, Bulgari Bulgari, in 1975, the jeweler was using movements produced by other watchmakers like Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-Le Coultre, Vacheron Constantin and Movado. Presently, Bulgari has produced its own in-house movement, Calibre 168 — a step forward for the luxury brand.

Photo Credit: bulgari.com

How to Authenticate Damiani Jewelry

Damiani is one of the top jewelers in the world, especially in Italy. With a high-profile name like Damiani, you run the risk of buying a fake if you are purchasing online or from a dealer who is not authorized. Check out these tips for authenticating your Damiani jewelry.

1. European Gold


Most European jewelry has a fineness of .750, or a 75 percent purity — that’s 18 karats. This is marked in parts per thousand on European gold, including Italian gold like Damiani. When examining your piece, the caratage should be marked as 750, not 18K or 18KT.

2. Hallmarks and Stamps


When you examine your jewelry, be sure to check the hallmarks. The hallmarks are the markings on the metal of the jewelry item that indicate a specification of the jewelry piece, such as the fineness of the metal. A maker’s mark distinguishes the jewelry from items by other jewelers. The stamps should always be clear and precise. The backside or inside of the metal should also say “Damiani” and “Made in Italy.”

If you have a wedding band that was co-designed by Brad Pitt for the D.Side collection, then your band should be stamped accordingly.The piece will read, “co-designed by Damiani and Brad Pitt.”

3. Quality

Damiani only uses high-quality metals like gold and platinum. When you examine your item, look for signs of discoloration or areas where it appears there is another color underneath — this is sign that the item is a fake.

4. Price

Always keep the price of the bracelet in mind. A brand new Metropolitan Dream yellow gold ring is about $2,500. Since Damiani has impressive craftsmanship and uses high-quality materials, the jewelry does not depreciate greatly over time. If you find an item in good condition at an unbelievable price, then the product is likely fake.

5. Source


Nearly 90 percent of counterfeit goods come from China. If you are buying your item online, keep in mind the seller location. Be wary of goods originating from locations with high rates of counterfeit goods. Check that the website you are buying from issues a guarantee, authenticates your item, and has a great return policy should you not be satisfied with the product.

6. Appraisal
When in doubt, take your item to a trusted jeweler for appraisal. The only way to ensure your item is authentic is to take it to a professional to confirm this for you. Or you can just mail your item to expert appraisers at TrueFacet to get a report.

Photo Credit: wuwhoshente.com / damiani.com / forbes.com

Collection Confidential: Damiani’s Best Designs

Damiani may be one of the most prevalent jewelers in Italy, but it is also one of the most awarded jewelers globally. With 18 Diamonds International Awards — the most of any jeweler in history — Damiani knows a thing or two about jewelry design. Check out five of the most well-known Damiani designs and learn about their history.

1. Metropolitan Dream

In only fives year, since its debut in 2010, The Metropolitan Dream collection has undoubtedly become one of the most iconic Damiani designs. The raised edges and textured expression conjure images of a metropolitan sprawl. The modern lines and sparkling elements rouse sentiments of glamorous urban modernity.

In October Damiani collaborated with Japanese jewelry designer and former soccer star Hidetoshi Nakata, to create another variation of the Metropolitan Dream collection while also aiding in another charity venture. Part of the proceeds of the sales until 2017 will go to Home for All, a non-profit that helps build homes for those who were affected by the 2011 Tohoku earthquake and tsunami in Japan.

2. Clean Water Maji Sharon Stone

This collection was co-designed by Sharon Stone for the Clean Water initiative. Stone partnered with Damiani to create beautiful designs, of which part of the proceeds would go to a charity, Drop in the Bucket, that built wells for clean drinking water in African villages. The jewelry company wrote a check for $200,000 along with an undisclosed personal check from the Damiani family. The contribution helped build 50 new wells which provided clean water to over 10,000 people.

In Swahili, Maji means ‘water.’ Together, Damiani and Stone created bracelets, rings, pendants and more made of silver, gold and rough diamonds, evoking the landscape of Africa. The rough diamonds were chosen as to represent the plentiful mines in Africa and combined with brushed yellow gold to create an unfinished look.

3. Damianissima

This collection finds beauty in one of the simplest inspirations — the “D” in Damiani. The designs play off the shape and curves of the letter to create beautiful designs of original value, adding complexity to the character and turning it into a symbol that reaches further than the alphabet.

The collection underwent redesign in 2014. The new designs represent contemporary elegance — one of Damiani’s greatest skills. The collection utilizes pink, white and yellow gold paired with white and black ceramic and diamonds. The collection combines these elements for a piece that is feminine, bold and modern.

4. Gomitolo

In Italian, “gomitolo” is the word for a ball of yarn. This is just another example of the unconventional inspiration of Damiani collections. The result: master settings of pavé diamonds and craftsmanship beyond compare.
Though the collection was first introduced in the late ’80s, more recently, Damiani redesigned the Gomitolo collection to feature more modern looks, using as sterling silver and enamel.

5. D.Side

This collection was co-designed by Brad Pitt and Jennifer Aniston helped promote the collection through an ad campaign. The collection features designs inspired by the bond of marriage. The most unique feature of the design is the discretely-set diamonds along the edge of the band. The band comes in variations of five, eight or ten diamonds. The effect is classic and unique at the same time.

The D.Side collection features designs other than wedding bands. Cufflinks are set with diamonds, lapis and tiger eye. Necklaces feature the band on a chain or a cross set with diamonds around the edges. There are various bracelets in variations of bangles, leather straps and charms.

Photo Credit: jewelrynetworknews.blogspot.com / dayandnightmagazine.com / zimbio.com / donatellazappieri.wordpress.com / celzagioielli.it / vioromagazine.it

Beginning of a Brand: Damiani Jewelry

The Italian jeweler Damiani was founded in 1924. Three generations have led the company creatively, making Damiani a true family business. Founder Enrico Grassi Damiani found success designing diamond jewelry for the nobles of Italy. Since then, Damiani has found a place amongst the finest Italian jewelers.

Quietly, the family jewelers refined and innovated the classic Damiani style, developing a prestigious reputation among affluent Italians. In 1980, the Damiani family decided to expand the reach of their carefully developed brand. Damiani highlighted testimonial evidence, innovations and world-class photography to introduce their brand to the world.

The third generation of Damiani jewelers were the first to take the business beyond Italy, growing the family business into a globally-reaching corporation with over 80 boutiques across the world. Damiani is the most successful jewelry brand in Italy and is now looking to find similar success throughout the rest of the world.

The jeweler has had many celebrity collaborations and endorsements. Brad Pitt co-designed the D.Side collection of wedding band-inspired pieces while Jennifer Aniston modeled the designs in an ad campaign.

In a humanitarian effort, Damiani partnered with Sharon Stone to launch the “Clean Water” campaign. The campaign’s goal was to build wells to extract clean drinking water in African villages. For the campaign, Damiani introduced a collection featuring rough diamonds with part of the proceeds going towards building wells. The jewelers has also maintained a strong commitment to sourcing conflict-free diamonds.

Damiani upholds a tradition of the finest craftsmanship and design with 18 Diamonds International Awards, beginning in 1976. Damiani is the only jeweler in the world to have received as many awards. The most recent was awarded in 2000 for the Eden bracelet which features 900 brilliant-cut diamonds, 94.45 carats, set in white gold. The masterful piece took approximately 800 hours to create, according to Damiani.


Shop the look with authenticated Damiani jewelry from TrueFacet!


Photo Credit: noblesse.com / damiani90years.com / damiani.com / jeweleryicon.com

How to Accessorize for a Summer Party

Sunday is the first official day of summer and what better way to kick it off than with a summer party. This season you will probably collect a few invitations to different kinds of events. Don’t worry about your wardrobe because we’ve got you covered from the garden to the reception.

1. Hamptons Party

[Rolex Oyster Perpetual][Chanel Earrings][Sunflower Pendant] [Chanel Brooch]

Okay, so you probably aren’t headed to the end of Long Island this summer, but that doesn’t mean you need to sacrifice this style. Dress code during the day is casual and chic. Match the sun and the scenery with floral themes, pastels and hints of gold. Make sure your outfit is breezy and light for the hot summer days. You don’t need to go heavy on the jewelry, but add at least one statement piece.

2. Garden Party

[VCA Watch][VCA Earrings] [VCA Ring] [VCA Alhambra Necklace]
Garden parties are more formal than typical outdoor gatherings, but don’t forget you are still going to be outside for the majority of the event. Dress in light clothing and accessorize with summer hues and motifs. Floral motifs and golden accessories are perfect for this type of social event.

3. Summer Wedding


[Chanel Ring] [VCA Alhambra Necklace] [Bulova Watch]
Summer is a common time for weddings — the sun is shining and the weather makes for beautiful photos. Make sure you are picture perfect while not outshining the bride. Keep your accessories minimal, but still add a little sparkle.

4. Cocktail Party


[Tiffany Diamond Necklace and Bracelet][Emerald Cocktail Ring][Cartier Tank]

Cocktail parties were popularized as an hour- to two hour-long social event where the host would serve cocktails as the guests socialized. Traditionally, the dress code was formal, but today, the dress code can range anywhere between formal and casual. Since we are partial to the idea of a Gatsby-era soiree, we recommend accessorizing with a subtle diamond necklace and an eye-catching cocktail ring.

The Evolution of the Wearable Watch

The wearable watch has been in fashion for five centuries, but it wasn’t always a wristwatch or even just a pocket watch. The movements and designs both took decades and centuries to evolve from a fashion accessory void of practical timekeeping purpose to beautiful and practical tools of the highest precision. Read the history to see how your favorite watchmakers influenced the history of horology.

Clock Watches

The first watch was created in the 16th century after the development of the main spring. They were thought of as portable clocks. The first watches were called “clock-watches,” which is where the current term comes from. They were decorative pendants worn on a necklace. Though there was an hour hand, the time was inaccurate in most cases and the clock watches merely served as an accessory.

Pocket Watches
The design of the watch slowly changed and improved over two centuries. The clock watch had evolved into a pocket watch and to fit into the pocket of trousers, the watch design became flatter without sharp edges and with a glass cover. Early pocket watches were also inaccurate due to the nature of the mainspring which did not produce constant force, thus the timekeeping slowed as the force slowed.

Pocket watches were developed and by 1657, with the invention of the balance spring, the accuracy of the watch became accurate within 10 minutes. This led to the addition of a minute hand by 1700. With increased accuracy, previously-benign mechanical issues were brought to the forefront, which led to a two-century period of acute timekeeping innovation.

The Enlightenment
During the Age of Enlightenment, watches were viewed as instruments with a scientific purpose, which led to further development and accuracy in timekeeping. For purposes of accuracy during sea voyages and exploration, marine chronometers were improved drastically during this time. These developments were later used in watches.

During this time, the problems with the balance spring were improved greatly. Watchmakers discovered that the spring’s inability to cope with temperature changes affected their accuracy. Temperature sensitive balance springs were developed so watches were accurate within seconds.

Vacheron Constantin
Founded in 1755, Vacheron Constantin is one of the oldest watch companies in the world. In the 1800s, Georges-Auguste Leschot, while working for the watch company, invented a watch part that allowed interchangeable parts in watchmaking. This made the mass production of watches possible.

In 1851, using interchangeable parts, an American watchmaker started a watch factory that became successful as the Waltham Watch Company. The company was the first to mass produce watches.

The Railroad
Accurate timekeeping was necessary for railroaders throughout and the demand drove innovation in watch precision. In the late 1800s the first railroad chronometer inspection system was developed. The first watch precision contest took place in 1876. During this time keyless winding was also developed, and accuracy was only within error of a few seconds a day.

Wristwatches
It’s unclear who invented the first wristwatch. Some say that Breguet was commissioned by the Queen of Naples Caroline Murat in 1810. However, in 1571 Robert Dudley gifted Elizabeth I what was called an arm watch, likely the same as a wristwatch. Historically, wristwatches were worn primarily by women.

At the end of the 19th century, the military needed to discretely synchronize missions and attacks, so they would strap their pocket watches to their wrists. Early wristwatches were essentially pocket watches with a leather strap.

Louis Cartier was one of the first watchmakers to specifically design wristwatches for commercial sale after his friends and early aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont asked Cartier to design a watch for aviating. The watch is now known as the Santos.

After WWI, the public opinion — which in large considered wristwatches a women’s fashion — shifted and there was a large demand for men’s wristwatches.

Quartz Watches

After the development of a battery-powered watch, the ground was laid for the invention of quartz watches. Swiss and Japanese watchmakers developed the first quartz wristwatches. This innovation greatly increased the accuracy of wristwatches to error within only 12 seconds a year. More importantly, this development led to a drastic decrease in the price of watches. They became an affordable accessory and US-based and Japan-based companies began mass producing low-cost quartz wristwatches.

Photo Credit: designbuzz.com / sciencemuseum.org.uk / cowanauctions.com / pocketwatchrepair.com / monochrome-watches.com / atimelyperspective.com / christophlorenz.de

Jewelry Trends: Resort Fashion Week 2016

The year is long and with only two seasons of ready-to-wear shows, the stretch between summer and fall seems infinite. That’s when the inter-season Resort Fashion Week collections step in to save us from the midseason monotony. We sifted through the styles to find you the latest runway jewelry trends, so check out these six trends from the runway.

Rings

We saw two designers who liked to pile on the rings, but the two styles were very distinct. Gucci fit cocktail rings onto every finger in every color. In contrast to Gucci’s decadent art deco rings, Chloé kept it modern and simple. While embracing the plentiful look, they used simple gold bands, multiple on one finger, to avoid excess.

1. Gucci


[Green Tourmaline] [Opal] [Colombian Emerald] [Red & Silver] [Amethyst]

2. Chloé


[Cartier Love] [Bulgari B.Zero1] [Cartier Trinity] [Tiffany & Co. Snake]

Bracelets

As Coco Chanel developed and popularized costume jewelry, she was never one to simplify her jewelry. True to the Chanel image, the current direction under Karl Lagerfeld does not stray. In the Spring/Summer collection, Chanel runway models adorned their wrist in slogan bracelets. In the resort show, they were bedecked several chain link bracelets. While Chanel used several stacked bracelets, Elie Saab opted for a similar effect, but simplified. The golden cuff complimented the blush tones of her 1970s-inspired designs.

3. Chanel


[Two-Tone Chain] [Chanel Link] [Heavy Chain]

4. Elie Saab


[Chanel Matelasse] [Carrera y Carrera Horse Cuff] [Givenchy Cut Out] [Cartier Panthere]

Necklaces

True to trend, the statement necklaces of the show were either dazzling and ornate or striking yet minimal. At Oscar de la Renta, the pretty patterns and colors were complimented by equally colorful and beautiful jewelry pieces. Our favorite was a beautiful floarl design in yellows and blues. Ralph Lauren made a minimalist statement with large, round pendant necklaces that matched the shades of his diverse color palette.

5. Oscar de la Renta


[YSL Rhinestone] [Kate Spade Bib] [Carrera y Carrera Gold Flowers] [Eddie Borgo Tricolor]

6. Ralph Lauren


[Stephen Webster] [Cirvelli] [Roberto Coin] [Gucci] [Nouvelle Bague]

Photo Credit: style.com / footwearnews.com

10 Surprising and Little-Known Facts About Cartier

Here are ten surprising facts about Cartier, the iconic brand’s legacy and the long list of family members who grew Cartier from its humble workshop in Paris to the global empire it is today.

1. Alfred Cartier was the first jeweler to successfully use platinum in jewelry-making.
Throughout the 19th century, platinum was an incredibly expensive material and was most commonly used by royalty for cutlery and watch-chains. Platinum’s high melting point made it incredibly difficult to work with, so it was an impressive feat when, in 1847, Alfred Cartier began using the brilliant and strong metal in his jewelry. Cartier incorporated it into his “Garland Style” pieces and to amplify the brilliance of diamonds.

2. Louis Cartier was the first designer to popularize the wristwatch for men.
After listening to his longtime friend and Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont lament about the difficulty of using a pocket watch to record flight times, Louis Cartier set about designing a more practical wristwatch. In 1904, Cartier debuted his first men’s wristwatch, the appropriately named “Santos” watch. At the time, it was a bold foray for the designer as society’s elite considered the pocket watch to the gentleman’s timepiece and women wore wristwatches. However Santos-Dumont’s fame and aeronautic achievements quickly spurred the popularity of the comfortable and functional wristwatch among men.

3. King Edward VII of England dubbed Louis Cartier the “Jeweler of Kings and King of Jewelers.”
Cartier’s celebrity client list included an impressive number of royals and aristocrats. Princess Mathilde, the niece of Napoleon I, made her first purchase from Cartier in 1856 and Napoleon III’s wife Empress Eugenie became a client in 1859. In the following years, Cartier would be appointed the official purveyor to King Edward VII (1904), King Carlos I of Portugal (1905), King Chulalongkorn of Siam (1908), King Peter I of Serbia (1913), King Fouad I of Egypt (1929), and King Zog I of Albania (1939).

4. J.P Morgan bought the first Cartier Mystery Clock for $3,200.
In 1913, Maurice Couet designed the first “mystery clock” for Cartier. These puzzling clocks featured seemingly floating hour and minute hands. The hands are in fact mounted to a transparent rock crystal but give the illusion the clock is running without gears. Cartier lavishly decorated these mechanical wonders with diamonds and gemstones and would sculpt the clock into a work of art. Financier J.P. Morgan purchased the first Cartier mystery clock, designed by Couet and shaped like a temple, in 1929. When it was put up for auction in 1993, it fetched over $1.5 million.

5. Pierre Cartier purchased the Cartier New York flagship not with millions of dollars but with a pearl necklace.
In 1914, Pierre Cartier had a stroke of real estate luck when one of his double-strand pearl necklaces caught the eye of millionaire Morton Plant’s second bride-to-be. Plant and his betrothed were eager to move out of the “commercialized” neighborhood where they lived on the posh corner of 5th Avenue and 52nd Street. Cartier meanwhile was keen to move in to the bustling playground of society’s upper crust. Plant and Cartier bartered a trade: Plant’s six-story apartment building plus $100 in exchange for the pearl necklace.

6. The iconic Love Bracelet’s design was inspired by medieval chastity belts.
Also Cipullo designed the Cartier Love Bracelet in 1969 and was inspired by the rather barbaric practice of chastity belts. According to folklore, chastity belts were a sort of underwear contraption designed to prevent the wearer from having sex and worn by women during the Crusades to preserve their faithfulness to their husbands who left to fight. Modern research however posits these were not a common practice and likely used in the 16th century.

But curiously enough, Cipullo drew inspiration from chastity belts, focusing on the symbolism of devotion and fidelity. His Love Bracelet design features a solid cuff with screws and a lock mechanism so it remains secure around your lover’s wrist. The bracelet comes with a screwdriver which is meant to be kept by your significant other so only they can open it.

7. New York City hospitals keep Love screw drivers handy.
According to a recent Vogue article, the Love bracelet is so popular, NYC hospitals stock Love screw drivers in their wards so they can remove the bracelet from patients’ wrists during an emergency.

8. For their iconic Panthere design, Cartier developed a unique and painstaking setting to create the texture of the panther’s fur.
Appropriately named the “fur” setting, diamonds are set into a honeycomb lattice made of tiny, hair-thin wires of gold. Onyx and sapphire are included as the panther’s spots.

9. The highest auction price for a Cartier jewel was $30,335,698.
Cartier’s Sunrise Ruby, a 25.6 carat Burmese ruby, was put on the Sotheby’s auction block in May 2015, with the winning bid of $30,335,698. The gem is now the most expensive ruby, the most expensive colored gemstone and the most expensive non-diamond gemstone in the world.

10. In May 2016, Cartier was ranked as the 58th most valuable brand in the world by Forbes magazine.
The brand is valued at an estimated $10.1 billion and boasts sales of $6.1 billion with 286 worldwide locations.
Now that you are a veritable expert in the brand, test your Cartier knowledge with our fun quiz How Well Do You Know Cartier here.

 

Photo Credit: monochromewatches.com / jewelsdujour.com / fashiongum.com / thenational.ae / rogue.cartier.com