Author: TrueFacet

TrueFacet is an online marketplace for pre-owned fine jewelry and watches. Every item sold is verified by our in-house team of gemologists and watch experts to ensure its authenticity.

How to Authenticate Patek Philippe Watches

Patek Philippe watches are hotly coveted and their incredible demand makes them ripe for counterfeits. While we recommend bringing your watch to a professional to examine its authenticity, here are some precautionary steps you can take on your own to flag potential fake Patek Philippe watches.

1. Inspect your watch’s quality thoroughly.

Patek Philippe is a renowned and, considered by some, the world’s premier watchmaker; the 175-year old brand has been consistently setting and then raising the bar for industry standards. Therefore, they take incredible pride in the absolute perfection of their watches, which makes a fake’s otherwise minor inconsistencies glaringly obvious by contrast. Misspellings, sloppy engravings, stamped lettering, or flimsy hardware are immediate indicators the watch is a fake.

2. Cross-reference the price.

Patek Philippe watches sit at the highest end of the luxury watch spectrum and are priced accordingly. Even a comparatively less expensive model will set you back thousands of dollars. With that high ticket in mind, research the Patek Philippe watch model you’re eyeing across multiple websites and shops to establish a general cost range. If you’re quoted a price significantly lower than the marketplace range, the watch is likely a fake. There is a big market for Patek Philippe watches and a seller would not need to significantly lower the price of an authentic Patek Philippe watch to entice shoppers.

3. Research the seller’s location and credibility. 

Try to find an exact address for your seller. The majority of the world’s counterfeit watches come from China– which does not mean all watches imported from China are fake. But if your seller is based abroad, you’ll want to investigate their legitimacy even more carefully. Evaluate the website to ensure its information complete and the URL is not a close misspelling of Patek Phillipe; it is common for phony sites to try and capture traffic misdirected from incorrectly spelled search terms. Read reviews from past shoppers and scrutinize the language very carefully. If the written reviews are very short (perhaps not complete sentences or a few words) or read like they may be penned by the seller themselves, or if there are no reviews at all, it’s best to just walk away.

4. Look up the watch’s serial number via Patek Philippe.

Every authentic Patek Philippe watch is stamped and logged with a serial number. For a modest fee, Patek Philippe can delve into its archives to compare the watch in question’s serial number with its records to confirm the stamp corresponds to the appropriate watch model. However, proceed with some caution even here: forgers can repeat a serial number of the same model on a fake Patek Philippe watch.

5. Get an expert opinion.

To know for certain if your watch and all its components are genuine Patek Philippe, you must bring it to an appraiser who specializes in Patek Philippe watches. The appraiser will extensively examine the watch to ensure its authenticity and value.

If you have further questions regarding TrueFacet’s authentication process, contact our concierge representative here.

Photo Credit: tiffany.com / thepurists.net / cityam.com / monochrome-watches.com


7 Most Expensive Patek Philippe Watches

Patek Philippe‘s history dates back over 175 years and is filled with innovation and creativity, so it’s no surprise that Patek Philippe watches frequently break records at auction. Here are seven of the most incredible and incredibly expensive Patek Philippe watches.

7. Cushion-Shaped Single Button Chronograph

During the Great Depression, while the greater watch industry suffered and demand for lower-end watches evaporated, the elite watchmakers of Patek Philippe received an influx of orders for custom and incredibly complicated timepieces. Therefore, remarkably enough, during an economic downturn, Patek Philippe produced some of their rarest and most elegant watches. This particular watch, the Cushion-Shaped Single Button Chronograph, was produced in 1928 and sold in 1931. When it was put on the Christie’s auction block in 2011, this “extremely fine, important and possibly unique” watch fetched an impressive $3.6 million USD.

6. Ref. 2499 “Eric Clapton”

There are many contributing factors that make this chronograph so coveted—and worthy of its $3.64 million USD price tag. First off, this is the only Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 made of platinum. It also features a perpetual calendar and moon phases. The fame of the watch’s third owner, English musician, rock legend, and watch collector Eric Clapton, drummed up additional celebrity and attention for the timepiece. Clapton sent waves through the watch-collecting community by putting Ref. 2499 up for auction—making it the first time the watch was publicly available.

5. Ref. 5004T Titanium

This one-of-a-kind watch was designed by Patek Philippe exclusively for the Only Watch auction in Monaco in 2013. The Only Watch auction is a charity event to benefit the Monegasque Association Against Muscular Dystrophy which funds research for the degenerative neuromuscular disease Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. This specific model is called the 5004T as a nod to the very few Patek Philippe watches made of titanium. The unique timepiece garnered $3.99 million at auction.

4. Ref. 2458 Observatory Chronometer

This watch was made in honor of J.B. Champion, a Texan criminal defense attorney and devoted Patek Philippe watch collector who passed away in 1975. The watch’s movement was developed for the 1948 Geneva Observatory watch-making competition “Concours de Chromoetrie.” The rigorous standards and size specifications made the competition’s contending watches commercially unviable for watchmakers. Of the 30 movements Patek Philippe designed for this competition, only two were ever put in a watch case and one of them went into this watch for J.B. Champion. Champion selected the case, dial and strap and only his was made in platinum. When the watch was put up for auction (coincidentally the same auction that included the aforementioned Ref. 2499 Eric Clapton watch), it sold for $3.99 million.

3. Caliber 89 Grand Complication Pocket Watch

To commemorate its 150th anniversary in 1989, Patek Philippe created what they dubbed, “the most complicated watch in the world.” This pocket watch boasts 33 complications including a thermometer, star chart, equation of time, and time of sunrise and sunset. The final design took nine years to produce and included 1,728 total parts and weighed in at 1.1 kilograms (2.42 pounds). Only four were made: one in white gold, yellow gold, rose gold and platinum. In 2009, one of the Patek Philippe Caliber 89 sold at Antiquorum’s auction for $5 million USD, which at the time was the second-highest price ever paid for a watch at auction.

2. Ref. 1527 Perpetual Calendar

The history of this particular watch proved a hard investigation for the even the world’s most obsessive watch enthusiasts. It was ultimately traced back to the 1940s and is one of two Ref. 1527. watches. The first Ref. 1527 was originally commissioned by former chairman of Patek Philippe SA, Charles Stern, and remains in the Patek Philippe museum in Switzerland. This particular second Ref. 1527 however features a chronograph mechanism that is not included in its sibling watch. To add to its unique value, this watch was worn by Charles’s son and head of Patek Philippe’s U.S. distribution, Henri Stern, throughout his life. The watch is the most complicated Ref. 1527 ever manufactured and is a major inspiration for Patek Philippe’s designs. The watch was auctioned at Christie’s in 2010 for $5.7 million USD.

1. The Henry Graves Jr. Supercomplication

This watch was a special commission by banker Henry Graves in 1925 and took seven years to manufacture. What makes this watch such a marvel is the mind-boggling amount of ingenuity and craftsmanship that went into designing and then hand building the 24 complications (which also had to be manually calculated as this obviously long predated computers). Its complications include Westminster chimes, a perpetual calendar, and a celestial chart of New York’s evening sky. It remained the most complicated watch for over 50 years until Patek Philippe bested itself with the Caliber 89 Grand Complication (number three on our list here) in 1989. When the Henry Graves Jr. Supercomplication first went to auction in 1999 it sold for $11 million USD. However, when this rare piece appeared on the Sotheby’s auction in 2014, it went for a stunning $24 million USD.

Photo Credit: christies.com / manners.nl / thewatchlounge.com / hodinkee.com / watch-around.com / ablogtowatch.com / avaxnews.net / wristreview.com / capelux.com


The History of the Patek Philippe Brand

Patek Philippe is recognized as the world’s leading watch maker. This prestigious brand is credited with building some of the most complicated and valuable timepieces. We look back at the 178-year history of this legendary and ground-breaking watch brand to learn more about how it earned its illustrious reputation.

The Early Life of Antoni Patek
Antoni Norbert Patek was born in 1812 in a small village in Poland, amidst great international and political changes. In the wake of Napoleon’s great defeat by Russia in 1813, the Congress of Vienna redrew Poland’s borders and Poland was placed under the control of Russia’s controversial Tsar Nicholas I. When he turned 16, Patek enlisted in the First Mounted Rifles of the Polish cavalry and served as a freedom fighter against Russia. Patek ultimately fled Poland and the Tsar’s brutal policies in the mid-1830s.

Patek sought political asylum in Paris and then moved to the epicenter of watchmaking: Geneva, Switzerland. Patek immersed himself in the watchmaking industry, first buying high-quality movements to mount in his own watch cases and then opening his own company with his business partner, Francois Czapek. From their Geneva headquarters, Patek, Czapek & Co. produced an estimated 1,120 timepieces.

Meeting Jean Adrien Philippe
In 1844, Patek traveled to Paris for an exhibition and was introduced to Jean Adrien Philippe. Philippe was a talented and widely respected watchmaker, best-known for designing an impressively thin pocket watch. Philippe was also credited for revolutionizing watch design when he introduced his timepiece that could be wound with a crown, negating the need for the bothersome keys previously used to wind a watch.

In 1845, with Patek’s contract with Czapek set to expire, Philippe joined Patek’s new watch company, Patek & Co., as a partner and technical director. The company would later be renamed Patek Philippe & Co. in 1851.

The Rise of Patek Philippe & Co.
The newly-founded watch brand quickly rose to prominence. Philippe penned a successful book on his keyless pocket watch, cementing his industry renown as a watch expert. Meanwhile, Patek traveled extensively and internationally to market their watches. And Patek Philippe watches continued to innovate and quickly racked up awards and accolades.

In 1861, Patek Philippe debuted its stem-winding watch, shortly followed by its durable mainspring that proved a significant step in the development of the self-winding watch. In 1855, Patek Philippe’s pocket watch was awarded a gold medal at the first Universal Exposition. Patek Philippe also developed a watch to simultaneously display several time zones in 1870; this design would ultimately be reworked to become the universal time watch. A major business coup for the brand was becoming the principal supplier of pocket watches for New York’s Tiffany & Co. in 1876.

Antoine de Patek died on March 1, 1877 and named his son-in-law, Joseph Antonine Bénassy-Philippe, his successor. Jean Adrien Philippe retired in 1890, turning his role over to his youngest son Joseph Emile Philippe. Philippe died on January 5, 1894.

The Great Depression’s Effect
Joseph Antonine and Jospeh Emile continued to manage Patek Philippe as a family business, even as they transformed it into a stock corporation, named Ancienne Manufacture d’Horlogerie Patek Philippe & Cie. S.A., and installed seven shareholders onto its first board.

In 1932, the world’s economy was crippled by the United States’ Great Depression. The struggling Patek Phillipe & Co. turned to the owners of their dial maker business partner, Fabrique de Cadrans Sterns Frères, Charles and Jean Stern. Prompted by both their business savvy and a sentimental desire to perpetuate the Swiss watchmaking traditions, the Stern brothers purchased a majority interest in the waning Patek Philippe & Co. business. And, shortly after poaching Jean Pfister, a renowned watch maker, from Tavannes Watch Co., in 1933, Patek Philippe’s new management announced Patek Philippe would now begin making its own movements instead of buying them from LeCoultre.

With the Stern brothers at the helm, Patek Philippe’s business quickly picked back up. Patek Philippe introduced its flagship model, the Calatrava, in 1932; the minimalist design was inspired by the Bauhaus movement that brought form and function together. Patek Philippe also received a historic commission from American industrialist Henry Graves, Jr. in 1933. The now-famous masterpiece was the most complicated Patek Philippe pocket watch and, at the time, was valued at a stunning $60,000 USD (or over $1.1 million USD today).

The Quartz Crisis
In 1977, Philippe Stern, Charles Stern’s grandson, assumed control of the company. However, this was during the infamous Quartz Crisis that crippled the watch industry. The introduction of inexpensive quartz watches (and their subsequent takeover of mechanical watches’ market share) devastated the traditional watch industry that saw its sales plummet. Philippe Stern delicately straddled the world of traditional watch making with the new, incoming technology by incorporating quartz into select models. This savvy move kept Patek Philippe afloat. By 1984, when vintage watch collecting became a popular new hobby, interest in Patek Philippe was revitalized. And Patek Philippe’s hype was at fever pitch in 1989 when the brand celebrated its 150th anniversary.

Patek Philippe Today
Patek Philippe still reigns supreme in the world of watchmaking– with some fans going so far as to rank Patek Philippe as the best watchmaker in history. The company generates over $1.3 billion in annual revenue. Meanwhile the Stern family, including Philippe and his son Thierry, have a net worth of around $3 billion USD.

It is estimated Patek Philippe has produced only 1 million watches in its 178-year history. They are hotly sought after and prized by collectors. The rarest of the rare Patek Philippe watches regularly pull down record-breaking amounts at auction including the Henry Graves Jr. Supercomplication pocket watch that sold for $24 million USD in 2014.

Photo Credit: iconeek.com / adlmagazin.wordpress.com / wandolec.com

Watches of the Week: Instagram Round-Up

The close of another week brings another round of amazing watch photography on Instagram. We chose our four favorites from the week to share. For jewelry and watch photos from TrueFacet, follow us at @TrueFacet.

1. Rolex Submariner

@blakescott_We love this set up, and the watch of course! This snap is from blogger and men’s fashion influencer Blake Scott.

What makes this shot perfect — aside from the cold brew — is the stunning timepiece. Scott is wearing a Rolex from TrueFacet for an effortless and authentically cool look. This Submariner has a blue dial and a two-tone bracelet.

2. Vintage Vacheron Constantin

@the_vintage_loungeThere are few things we enjoy more than alliteration, and vintage Vacheron makes the list. This Vacheron Constantine chronograph Ref. #4178 has withstood the real test of time, maintaining its looks at functions from the 1950s.

The 75-year-old timepiece broke records in June when it was auctioned by Phillips Watches for over $265,000.

3. A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Perpetual

@kristianhaagenLife is complicated when watches are not. This A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Perpetual features three very useful complications and a beautiful design. It features a perpetual calendar, date and power reserve functions.

This chronograph is also a beautiful demonstration in watch design, inspiring images of classic 19th century pocket watches.

4. Rolex Milgauss

@thewatchclubThe Milgauss is a Rolex fan favorite with it’s distinct coloring and features. This shot really emphasizes the signature orange and green accents of the model.

The Milgauss was designed as an antimagnetic watch that could withstand intense electromagnetic fields like those used in power plants and research labs. The watch can withstand up to 1,000 gauss and was the first watch to do so.

Guide to Jewelry and Watch Styles

The terminology surrounding jewelry and watches can be confusing. There are terms that describe styles and others that describe lengths or occasions. With so many different ways to describe an item, it can be difficult to get it right. That’s we have a guide to jewelry and watch styles. Check out the most important stylistic distinctions below.

Jewelry:

1. Bracelets
[John Hardy Charm][Cartier Love][Diamond Tennis][Cartier Link]

Like most jewelry, bracelet styles come in all shapes, colors and materials. One style may look completely different than an item of the same style because of the different materials, colors, pattern and metal work used — that’s what makes jewelry original and fun. With so many options, there’s something out there for everyone.

The most prevalent bracelet types are bangles, charm bracelets, link bracelets, tennis bracelets and cuffs. Bangles and cuffs are frequently used interchangeably and both denote a bracelet that’s rigid in structure and typically a closed circle or oval. Tennis bracelets are nearly the opposite and are composed of several diamonds or other gemstones linked closely together on a thin chain.

Charm bracelets have increased in popularity in recent years and are highly customizable and sentimental. Another current trend is chain link bracelets. Chains come in many different styles too, including rope, box, figaro, snake, curb and more.

2. Necklaces

[Diamond Collar][VCA Choker][Mikimoto Pearls][Tiffany Lariat]

Like bracelets, necklaces are changed largely by changing the embellishments — like pearls, pendants or stations — on the actual chains. Gemstones, metal designs, shapes, patterns and sizes will all change how one piece compared to another.

With this in mind, necklaces are often classified based on their length. Recently, collars and chokers have been trending on the streets and on the runways. Though the designs may share the same classifications, the only other similarity is that they sit close to the base of the throat.

The same is true for all lengths of necklaces. Other lengths include princess (18 in.), matinee (20 in.), opera (30 in.) and rope/lariat (35 in.). Though two lengths will not often look the same.

3. Earrings
[Roberto Coin Studs][Ippolita Hoops][Gucci Drop Earrings][Carrera y Carrera Huggies]

Earrings can add a subtle sparkle or make a bold statement. This versatile accessory proves that even the smallest change to your accessories can completely change your look. Whether you want to add gemstones, intricate details or bright colors, earrings are a way to experiment with trends. One of the biggest accessory trends of the ear is the statement earring.

Earrings come in a few different styles. You can get studs, drop earrings or hoop earrings. Studs are small and typically made of a diamond or other gemstone, pearls or even just metal. Some are more intricate than others, but a classic pair of diamond or pearl studs is a must-have staple for every jewelry lover’s collection.

Drop earrings, sometimes called dangle earrings, are very on full force trend. These earrings are at least an inch in length or more if you are truly looking to get attention. The bigger, bolder and brighter, the better. At New York Fashion Week and London Fashion Week oversized drop earrings were the accessory of choice.

Since vintage-inspired looks have been trending, hoop earrings are slowly reemerging on the fashion scene. These can be metal, diamond, gemstone or take many other forms. For a more subtle hoop, you can try a small huggie-style earring.

4. Rings
[Vendura Infinity Band][Roberto Coin Cocktail][David Yurman Signet][Tiffany Solitaire]

There are so many different ring style, that it’s impossible to create a single list. Historians struggle typifying rings worn by ancient Romans due to the massive variety. However, today, there are some styles that are so popular it’s worth mentioning.

Cocktail rings were a formal fashion and status symbol of the past, but today they are purely a fun and versatile fashion statement. Solitaire rings, cluster ring and infinity bands are all popular for engagement rings and wedding bands. For men, jewelry has taken hold and rings are a part of the noise. Masculine signet rings and simple bands are favorites for men embracing the accessory.

Watches:
[Rolex GMT Master][Patek Calatrava][Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine][Michael Kors Camille]

Style:

Watches are classified by style and shape. The style will be appropriate depending on what the occasion and how much that matters to the wearer. There is are dress, sport, diver, aviator, fashion and retro watches.

Dress watches are for the office and formal occasions — whenever you would wear a suit. For more casual and adventurous activities, sport watches are a popular choice. Diver and aviator watches are favorites for casual and formal occasions even if you aren’t a deep sea diver or a pilot. Fashion watches are most popular among women and reflect current trends and stress fashion over all else. Finally, retro watches are new models inspired by and designed to look like older vintage watches.

Shape:

Your watch dial can have a round, cushion, oval, curved, square, rectangle or tonneau shape to the dial. It’s important to research which shape fits your style best. You also should keep the watch band in mind. There are several options exceeding the standard metal, leather or synthetic band.

Watch Size and Fit Guide: How Your Watch Should Fit

One of the biggest challenges with online shopping—whether it’s for a pair of jeans or new sneakers—is knowing how something will fit you. And surprisingly enough, this same pitfall applies to watches too. As you browse online, here are the key sizing and fit points to keep in mind as you shop for the perfect fitting watch.

1. Case Diameter

Modern tastes have gravitated towards watch styles with a larger case. For women, a standard watch case measures 26-29mm and mini watches are typically 23-25mm in diameter. For men, the average watch is 37-39mm; a sports watch is 40-42mm and over-sized watches measure 45mm and up. Some wearers will argue the case sizes have grown too big—others love the weight and impressive size of an over-sized watch case.

Ultimately the “correct” size comes down to personal preference and which size feels most comfortable.

2. Case Thickness

Historically, a thin watch case meant a better and more refined complication and garnered a higher price tag as a luxury piece. Today, however, watch tastes have changed with ever-growing case diameters increasing in popularity. In turn, the case thickness has proportionally increased—even if the additional space is not necessarily required to house the watch’s movements.

 

Case thickness is an oft-overlooked but incredibly practical consideration when shopping for a watch. For instance, if you typically wear a suit to work, a thick case may bunch up or stretch out your jacket sleeve. In that instance, a dress watch with a thinner case may be a better option. Factor in the pieces from your wardrobe that you would most typically wear with your watch and decide if a bigger watch will pair well accordingly.

3. Lugs

Watch lugs are the metal extensions where the watch case attaches to the bracelet or strap. These lugs are not factored into (and actually stick out further than) the case diameter’s measurements. That said, when measuring your wrist for which size diameter you prefer, leave breathing room for the lugs which will slightly elongate the height of watch. You do not want a watch where the lugs extend out over your wrist as it is uncomfortable to wear.

4. Bracelets and Straps

Most women’s watch straps measure between 6.75-7 inches, men’s typically 7.5-8 inches. Leather, synthetic or non-metal bracelet straps are easy to fit given the pre-made holes. Metal bracelets can be adjusted by a jeweler or watch dealer who can remove or add links for you—just confirm that your purchased watch includes additional links if needed. If not, you can contact the manufacturer to see if they have spare links to send.

The width of your watch strap or bracelet will depend on the case diameter and lug width, namely the larger the case diameter, the further apart the lugs, and the wider the band. You are pretty beholden to the band width as it needs to fit the lugs’ spacing. However, you may be able to swap out bracelet the style by, for example, subbing a fabric strap for a leather one of the same width.


Guide to Jewelry Size and Fit

Since you don’t get to try on your items before purchasing, buying jewelry online can be a tricky and daunting task. To make matters worse, sizes aren’t consistent from brand to brand and photos might not give you the right perspective. This should be a task as simple and painless as possible, so here are tips to help you through the process of figuring our which size to buy.

1. Rings

Proper sizing for rings is pretty straight forward. You should always choose a size that feels comfortable and that may be different from person to person. However, generally speaking, your ring should be tight enough so that it doesn’t slip off the finger, but loose enough so that it doesn’t cause discomfort.

When ordering a ring online, you should consider your finger shape when measuring your ring size. If your fingers taper from base to tip, then you will want to choose a size that fits snugly so the ring doesn’t slip off. If your fingers are widest at the knuckle, make sure you measure the knuckle so you don’t end up with a ring that doesn’t fit over the knuckle. Keep in mind that your fingers will swell and shrink throughout the day, so your ring may feel loose or tight at different times.

2. Bracelets

Similar to ring sizing, the size of the bracelet depends largely on the intended fit. The size may also be different depending on the jewelry maker’s conversion of wrist size to the standard small, medium and large sizes.

You should know how the item you are looking at is intended to fit. For example, a Cartier Love bracelet is meant to fit securely around the wrist. If you want a looser fit, then you will need to size up larger than your actual size.

Not all jewelers use the same sizing scales. You should always research the size charts before buying. Not all jewelry brands will use the same methods of measurement either. Some, like Cartier, measure the circumference of your wrist. Others, like David Yurman measure by the width of your fist. It’s also important to remember that a small, medium or large may be different in size for different brands.

3. Necklaces

The size of the necklace really depends on its length, so make sure you have a clear understanding of what each length looks like when worn. You don’t want to be surprised with a choker when you were expecting an opera length necklace.

Necklace lengths are also often referred to by different names that make it easier to remember. The 14″ length is called a collar, the 16″ is a choker, the 18″ is a princess, the 20″ is matinee, the 24″ is opera, and the 30″ and 35″ are rope or lariat.

When choosing a necklace length that will suit you best and fit in the intended style, it’s important to know your own measurements. Be sure to measure the circumference of your own neck so you get a better idea of what the necklace will look like on you!

Photo Credit: blacklisted.la / hausofpesh.com / courtney-watkins.com/

The Top 3 Luxury Watch Brands & Their Evolution

Over the years, Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Omega have grown to become synonymous with luxury. The three watch brands have developed over time from small businesses to large, multinational brands with worldwide recognition. Today, they continue to produce watches that combine the latest cutting-edge technology with a careful attention to craftsmanship and from the finest materials.

Check out the infographic below to learn more about the development of Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Omega below, from TrueFacet!

Browse our wide selection of luxury watches and find a great deal today!