Author: TrueFacet

TrueFacet is an online marketplace for pre-owned fine jewelry and watches. Every item sold is verified by our in-house team of gemologists and watch experts to ensure its authenticity.

4 Reasons To Buy A Pre-Owned Engagement Ring

For some people, the concept of receiving a pre-owned engagement ring that didn’t belong to someone in their partner’s family is their worst nightmare, but it really shouldn’t be. Superstitions and symbolic interpretations aside, pre-owned engagement rings come with several economic advantages. We pulled together four reasons why going pre-owned for your engagement ring could be the best choice for you and your partner.

1. Spend Less, Save More

Buying pre-owned gets you the best bang for your buck, bar none. When you buy diamond engagement rings brand new in-store, you lose money as soon as you walk out the door with your purchase. The retail price on engagement rings is significantly marked up, especially for branded rings. That Tiffany’s ring cost a prettier penny when the first owner bought it than it does now, surely. However, buying it pre-owned means that even though you’re getting the ring for a steal, you’re still getting the same calibre of quality—after all, Tiffany’s is forever, no matter who owns it or pays for it first.

2. Pre-Owned Rings are a Great Jumping Off Point

If size and quality are of particular import to you but you don’t quite have the budget to get your partner the ring you think they deserve, then buying pre-owned should definitely be an option to consider. You’d save tons by buying a ring pre-owned, so much so that you can put the extra cash into savings for the ring of your spouse’s dreams. Conversely, you could get the perfect engagement ring at an incredibly discount because it was once used by someone else. Either way, the money you save by buying pre-owned is significant enough to make a difference.

3. Pre-Owned is Eco-Friendly

Practicing eco-friendliness is more important now than ever, and another way to do that is by shopping pre-owned for your engagement ring. Buying a used diamond reduces the demand for another diamond to be mined from the earth. Not only would you be saving money, but you would also be reducing your carbon footprint and avoiding the labor conflict that is sometimes related to natural diamonds. The next time you stop to admire your pre-owned engagement ring while filling up your reusable water bottle, you’ll feel great about knowing that you’re helping the planet out in your own small ways.

4. Pre-Owned Rings Often Look New Anyway

Outside of superstition, there is really no discernible difference between new and pre-owned rings. Chances are good that the previous owner cared for the piece enough that the stones won’t have sustained damage, so the ring is probably in just as good quality as the day it was first bought. While the setting itself can suffer the effects of time, it’s no trouble at all to take the ring to a jeweler who can polish up the band and tighten the setting around the stones.


How to Clean Your Fine Jewelry

Cleaning your fine jewelry is a no brainer for your family heirlooms and fine sentimental pieces. But don’t forget: the pieces you wear everyday—like your wedding band, diamond stud earrings, or that pendant from your grandmother—need a little extra looking after, too. Here are some basics on how to keep your most-loved pieces clean and in top notch condition.

The Five Do’s and Don’ts for Cleaning Your Fine Jewelry

1. Put your jewelry on after your moisturizer, makeup and hair care products.


When it comes to your morning routine, make putting on your jewelry last. The chemical compounds or cleaning agents in your face wash, lotion and makeup can affect—and even damage—your jewelry. Minimize your jewels’ contact with these potentially harmful chemicals by slipping them on last.

2. Remove your jewelry during physical tasks.

Place your jewelry in a dish or back into your jewelry box whenever you’re cleaning, gardening or working with your hands. Like your beauty and grooming products, the harsh chemicals in cleaning products can tarnish, discolor or damage your jewelry. Similarly, store your jewels in your locker during your workouts. Clanking it against elliptical handles or the barbell can scratch your jewelry.

3. Do not wear your jewelry while bathing or swimming.


Chlorine in the pool and soapy bubbles in the bath are not easy on your baubles. They can tinge the color or add a thin layer of film that reduces a stone’s shine.

4. Wipe down pieces at the end of the day.

After you remove your jewelry, use a soft cloth to gently wipe away any oils or dirt from your jewelry. Then store your jewels in a fabric-lined jewelry box, preferably with separate storage compartments, to prevent scratching. For longer-term storage, place anti-tarnish strips (which absorb the airborne pollutants that tarnish silver) in your jewelry box.

5. Bring in the jewelry professionals every two years.

Cleaning your fine jewelry on your own is risky business. For instance, if exposed to the wrong cleaning solution, your favorite pearls could literally dissolve into nothing. Therefore we recommend bringing your most-loved and worn pieces to the jewelers every two years, whenever damaged, or visibly in need of a thorough cleaning.

The pros can re-plate your white gold pieces which are typically coated with rhodium to preserve its shine. They can also polish platinum pieces and restring pearls when strings wear thin.

Need more tips on caring for your fine jewelry? Check out our starter guide to safely store your jewels.

Engagement Ring Terms Decoded

As you start browsing for engagement rings, it helps if you and your jeweler are speaking the same language. So here is a handy quick-guide of key terms to reference as you shop for rings.

When you’re trying to describe the “sparkle” you’re looking for… 

Brilliance: Brilliance is the amount of light that the diamond returns to the viewer. A diamond with good brilliance will lose the least amount of light, meaning it will have that dazzling sparkle and shine. The depth of the cut (see definition below) affects the ring’s overall brilliance.

Facet: This is the polished flat surface of the gemstone. A facet’s placement, angle and shape are very deliberately arranged to reflect light and improve the brilliance, fire and scintillation—and ultimately the overall appearance—of the stone.

The names for the different kinds of facet shapes. Photo by GIA.

Scintillation: Hold the diamond in the light and rotate it slowly. See that flickering sparkle within the diamond and how it almost looks as if the diamond is alternately flashing white and colored light from the inside? That effect is scintillation. A quality diamond will have these sparkling flashes across its surface without many dark spots.

Fire: This is the type of scintillation that refers to the intensity and variation of the colored lights that spread when a diamond is being rotated. Fire is the most commonly-used term, but the phenomenon is sometimes also referred to as dispersion.

Flash: This is the type of scintillation that refers to the intensity and pattern of the white lights that spread when a diamond is being rotated. Because white light is more commonly reflected than colored light when it comes to diamonds, flash is the more commonly seen type of scintillation.

Testing a diamond’s scintillation. This stone has both fire and flash patterns. Image by Fu On Liem.

When you’re assessing the diamond quality… 

The Four Cs: This is a term that you’ve likely heard before. The Four Cs refers to the color, cut, clarity and carat weight of a diamond. These collective features affect the overall quality and value of the diamond.

Color: Counterintuitively enough, color actually refers to a lack of color in a diamond. As set by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the diamond color scale ranges from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow or brown). This scale excludes fancy colors like rare pink, blue green, yellow or red diamonds.



Clarity: Clarity refers to a ranked scale of perfection or how few blemishes and inclusions there are within the diamond. This rating is determined by the number, size and location of the imperfections relative to the size of the diamond and their overall impact on the appearance of the stone. There are 11 potential grades from flawless to included. A flawless stone with no visible blemishes or inclusions under 10x magnification is extremely rare (and therefore incredibly valuable). Meanwhile an included diamond has flaws visible to the naked eye.

Cut: Cut are the angles a craftsman cuts into a raw diamond to make it a polished diamond. These crucial cuts are rooted in scientific formulas and proportions designed to optimize the reflection and refraction of light within a stone. Of the “Four Cs,” cut is considered the most significant factor in determining a diamond’s value as it greatly influences on the diamond’s fire, brilliance and scintillation.

Carat Weight: This is the unit of measurement for describing the weight of diamonds. One carat weight is the equivalent of .02 grams. The value of a diamond increases dramatically with the size due to rarity. It is important to note that the value of a diamond is based on the “Four Cs” combined; carat weight alone tells you nothing about the overall quality of the diamond.

To keep this information handy, download our complete guide here.

When you’re wary of the diamond’s value…

Certificate (Certification or Diamond Grading Reports): This is the diamond grading report you should receive with your ring purchase that verifies the diamond’s quality. The certificate should also come from a third-party gemological laboratory and not one affiliated with the jeweler you’re purchasing the diamond from.

Clarity Enhanced: Lower grade diamonds can now be artificially enhanced with laser and fracture drilling. This includes burning microscopic holes into the diamond to remove inclusions or filling in fractures to improve the diamond’s clarity. However once diamonds undergo any procedure, they are no longer considered a natural diamond and become less valuable. Jewelers are obligated to inform the buyer of any clarity enhancements, but still be skeptical if a diamond seems unusually inexpensive.

Inclusion: Although they may only be visible under 10x magnification, nearly all diamonds have an imperfection (or inclusion) inside. Possible inclusions include bubbles, clouds, carbon spots, or abrasions. A surface-level imperfection is called a blemish.

When you’re describing the style or design you’re looking for…

Basket Setting: This is a prong setting in which the diamond is propped up in a lace basket. The holes along the sides allow extra light to pass through the stone which makes it more brilliant looking.

Bezel Setting: This setting features a thin band of precious metal that fully encircles the stone to securely hold it in place.

Halo Setting: Commonly found on engagement rings, a halo setting includes a center stone completely surrounded with smaller accent gemstones.

For more popular engagement ring styles and settings, visit our guide here.

Diamond Cut: Probably the biggest question you’ll face when shopping for an engagement ring is what kind of diamond cut or shape you’re looking for. This refers to the shape of the ring’s center diamond. Because there are so many different styles—round, princess, oval, emerald, cushion, and more—we created this guide to help you identify your ideal shape and its appropriate name.

 

Watch Care: What You Need to Know

To ensure your watch holds its value and keeps its accuracy, here are the simple, daily measures to maintain your watch’s condition internally and externally.

Wind mechanical watches once a day.

The power reserve on a mechanical watch is usually one to two days, so you must wind it manually every day—unless you have automatic power reserve (see below). This keeps your watch functioning properly.

If your mechanical watch has an automatic power reserve, it winds itself with the movement of your arms throughout the day. It requires 10-12 hours of normal day wear for the watch’s power reserve to last through the night. If come morning you do need to wind your watch, you’ll need to do so manually.

Remove your watch before winding it.

If you leave your watch on, you risk winding your watch at an awkward angle and, in turn, damaging the internal components and potentially loosening the crown. Do not overwind your watch. When your watch is adequately wound, you’ll feel resistance. Stop as soon as you feel this. Over-winding your watch could damage it.

Do not set a mechanical watch between 9PM and 2AM.

If your watch has a complication that needs to be set (like the date), it is usually a straightforward process: the quick set function will allow you to wind the watch’s date without having to wind the minute hands around the full 24 hours over and over again. That said, you do not want to set the date between the hours of 9PM and 2AM, because, although you may only see the date change over at midnight, the mechanism of the watch is actually turning over the date those four hours between 9PM and 2AM. Therefore you risk damaging the movement if you quick set the date during that window of time.

For any watches that stopped between 9 and 2 but you don’t know if that’s AM or PM, advance the watch until the date changes so you know it’s now midnight on your watch. Then use the quick set function to safely set the date.

Prepare for water sports.

You know better than to wear an expensive watch to the beach but, hey, it happens—especially when the watch feels like an extension of your arm. So be sure to clean your timepiece thoroughly after a day on the sand or poolside. Chlorine, salt and sand can damage the inner components. And if you have a water resistant watch, double-check the crown is pushed all the way in before diving in.

Avoid extreme temperatures.

Yes, mountaineer Edmund Hillary was wearing a Rolex Explorer when he became the first man to successfully summit Mount Everest in 1953. But that doesn’t mean you should venture into frigid weather while wearing your Rolex. Avoid exposing your watch to temperatures below 32 degrees and above 140 degrees Fahrenheit (think saunas or direct and prolonged sunlight). The temperature shock can damage your timepiece.

 

 

Beginning of Brand: Franck Muller

Known as the “Master of Complications,” Franck Muller has created some of the most identifiable and complex wristwatches ever. With such an extensive resume, it’s impressive that the watch manufacturer known as Franck Muller was only established in 1991, just 25 years ago. Keep reading to learn about the long list of accomplishments in Franck Muller’s short history.

Muller was raised in La Chaux de Fonds, Switzerland, home of many of the greatest watchmakers in history, including Rolex, Omega and Girard-Perregaux. At age 15, Muller enrolled himself in watchmaking school, and eventually graduated from the Watchmaking School of Geneva. Muller began his watchmaking career repairing Patek Philippe watches and he was known for his skill in restoring antique and fine timepieces. By 1984, Muller had designed his first tourbillon — a feat typically only accomplished by the oldest and most prestigious watchmakers.

Muller began designing one-off timepieces for private clients but didn’t start his own company until 1991. Starting in 1993, Franck Muller began releasing his “World Premiers.” He regularly releases a new collection of wristwatches with a feature or complication that is the first or the superlative example in the watchmaking industry. Examples include the Revolution 3 and the Aeternitas Mega.

Muller had a unique approach to the development of complex movements. He noticed that most innovations and extreme complications were applied only to pocket watches. Muller made it his goal to achieve these accomplishments within the confines of a wristwatch. Many of the most complicated timepieces in history are contained in a pocket watch, but Muller would later change this with his most complicated design, the Aeternitas Mega.

The Aeternitas Mega is the most complicated Franck Muller watch ever designed and one of the most complicated wristwatches ever! After five years of development, the piece was released with 36 complications — 25 visible — and nearly 1,500 parts. The piece is named for the Latin word meaning eternity, referencing the perpetual calendar. Upon its release, the watch sold to a watch collector for $2.7 million, making it one of the most expensive watches in the world.

Aesthetically, Franck Muller watches are incredibly distinct and identifiable. His Cintree Curvex — French for “arched in a curve” — cases, which subtly transform the tonneau-shaped case with curved edges. This case shape is an extension of Muller’s technical prowess due to the complexity of manufacturing the shape. The tonneau-shaped piece is a nod the popular case choices of the Art Deco era of watchmaking.

Photo Credit: franckmuller.com / horbiter.com / ablogtowatch.com

How to Spot a Fake vs. Real Franck Muller Watch

Franck Muller creates some of the finest watches, and that quality comes at a price. The unique and desirable designs make the watches a target for counterfeiters across the world. If you are purchasing a Franck Muller watch, you will want the best deal, but also confidence that your watch it authentic. Keep reading for a few tips that will help you spot a fake Franck Muller watch.

1. Quality

There are certain things to look out for when inspecting any timepiece for obvious clues that the watch is fake. Although quality fakes are becoming more and more common, there are still many mistakes that slip by counterfeiters. Since many counterfeiters are from foreign countries, there are often spelling errors on the piece. Always carefully inspect all writing to be sure everything is spelt correctly. Be sure to look out for extra or missing letters.

Many fakes also use glue to hold the components together, whereas a Franck Muller watch would not. Look for any residue around the case, dial and crown. While inspecting the dial for any glue residue, also look for any dust or smudges on the dial. Carelessness is always a sign the piece is likely counterfeit or was handled by an amateur. Also, make sure to inspect your watch in the dark! If the hands do not adequately glow, then the piece likely uses a lower-quality luminous paint — a sign of a fake.

Finally, if possible, inspect the movement. Swiss watchmakers will always sign their movement in some way. If there are no engravings or signatures, then the movement is likely a cheap fake. If you cannot look at the movement, inspect the seconds hand. If the seconds hand is jumping instead of sweeping, then the watch could be a fake. Fine mechanical wristwatches will have a sweeping seconds hand while a quartz watch will have a “ticking” seconds hand.

3. Seller Details and Reviews

2. Price Check
If you plan on purchasing a Franck Muller watch, then you should always research the item thoroughly, especially price. If you find a piece that is listed for an unbelievable price, then it’s likely the watch is a fake. Look for the watch listed on other websites or at different dealers so you can accurately judge an appropriate price for the item. Today, faking a watch can be done more accurately than ever, even fooling some of the most avid watch collectors. The better a fake, the higher the price, so even if the price tag is relatively high, the watch could still be a fake.

Always thoroughly research the seller if you plan on making a large purchase like a Franck Muller timepiece. When buying online, your chances of getting the best deal are better, but your chances of buying a fake increase too. Thoroughly inspect the website and look for any incomplete or missing information. Always be sure to carefully check the web address you are visiting. Many counterfeiters will use a URL similar to a legitimate website and wait for buyers to accidentally type the wrong address.

Finally, look for honest reviews of the seller. If you cannot find any reviews at all, then the website could be a temporary scam website that changes regularly. If you only find extremely positive or poorly written reviews, then that is a sign the counterfeiters also faked the reviews. You should look for a trustworthy seller with honest reviews and feedback about the entire purchasing process.

4. Ask a Trusted Watch Expert
In the end, these tips can only help you spot a fake. However, some replica watches can pass these tests. The only way to be completely certain that your watch is the real deal is to take it to a trusted watch expert. If you don’t already know someone, then look for the same things as you would when trying to find a watch seller — honest reviews and a legitimate website.


Top 5 Complicated Franck Muller Watches

Franck Muller is known for his distinct aesthetic and complicated timepieces. The watchmaker got his start working with complicated watches from Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, two of the greatest watchmakers in history. With a name like “The Master of Complications,” it is without a doubt that Franck Muller has created some of the most complex watch movements ever. Keep reading to learn more about five of the most complicated Franck Muller watches.

5. Gravity

The Vanguard Gravity combines the case of the Vanguard collection with an uncommonly shaped tourbillon. The elliptical-shaped, oversized tourbillon takes up the entire lower half of the watch. The unique shape is necessary to offset the off-center balance wheel. It rotates once every minute to counter the effects of gravity on the movement. The case is made of titanium in Franck Muller’s signature Cintrée Curvex case to complete the truly quintessential Muller design.

4. Thunderbolt Tourbillon

The Thunderbolt tourbillon is the fastest tourbillon in the world — one rotation is completed in only five seconds. The tourbillon is powered by four barrels and features a new escapement designed by Franck Muller watchmaker Pierre-Michele Golay. The patented escapement makes the tourbillon more energy efficient than the typical tourbillon, allowing the watchmaker to increase the speed of the tourbillon without sacrificing accuracy.

3. Giga Tourbillon

The Franck Muller Giga Tourbillon watch houses the world’s largest tourbillon ever at 20mm in diameter and takes up an entire half of the dial. The massive tourbillon is powered by four barrels and has a 9-day power reserve. In 2013, the brand updates the model to feature a chiming complication with the Giga Gong Tourbillon. The skeletonized case allows you to observe the complex movement and tourbillon.

2. Evolution 3-1

The Evolution 3-1, part of Revolution collection, added another technical best to Franck Muller’s list of achievements and brought another first to the watch industry. The Evolution 3-1 features the world’s very first tri-axial tourbillon. Typically, a tourbillon only corrects for gravity when vertical, but the Revolution 3 corrects for gravity in all positions. This pieces further impresses with an additional complication — a perpetual calendar.

1. The Aeternitas Mega

When it was released in 2010, The Aeternitas Mega was the most complicated wristwatch in the world. The piece features a total of 36 complications and 1,483 parts. The watch features a grand tourbillon, perpetual calendar, moon phase, grande sonnerie, equation of time, minute repeater and more. The watch is named after the Latin word for eternity — inspired by the perpetual calendar complication. The watch is not only one of the most complicated ever but also one of the most expensive priced at $2.7 million.

Photo Credit: timeandwatches.com / franckmuller.com / revolution.watch / excellencemagazine.luxury

A Look at the Newly Renovated Cartier Flagship Store

Cartier legends say this New York flagship store was bought for a string of pearls in 1917. Now, nearly 100 years later, the Fifth Avenue mansion has undergone renovations to bring brilliance back to the iconic landmark. The jeweler worked with French architect Thierry Despont to return the mansion to its former luxury.

The Princess Grace Salon at the Cartier Mansion on Fifth Avenue.

The mansion was built in 1905 for fancier Morton Freeman Plant. After a decade of living at the Fifth Avenue location, Plant and his wife Maisie believed the area was over-commercialized and set their sites uptown. Cartier saw an opportunity upon learning Maisie’s admiration of an extremely rare double strand pearl necklace. The necklace featured 128 perfectly matched natural pearls, an extreme rarity valued at $1 million in 1916 — that’s the equivalent of nearly $18.5 million in 2016! Cartier offered a trade, the necklace and an additional $100 for the mansion, which the Plants accepted.

The building was last renovated in 2001 and posed a unique challenge as an official New York City landmark. The restoration took two and half years and was finally revealed on Sept. 8th with a glamorous event during New York Fashion Week. Guests attending the event included new brand ambassador Sofia Coppola, Rooney Mara and other celebrities, along with performances by the New York City Ballet, Kacy Hill and others.

The Oak Room at the Cartier Mansion on Fifth Avenue.

The restoration sought to combine a modern shopping experience with the luxurious atmosphere of a Parisian mansion. The space is better organized in six floors. On the ground level, the most iconic jewelry collections, like the Love, Trinity and Juste Un Clou collections are featured. The second floor is called the Pierre Cartier Salon which is where you can view and order a custom Cartier diamond engagement rings and view the Cartier high jewelry line.

The third floor houses men’s and women’s watches with the Santos-Dumont lounge and Andy Warhol salon. Accessories, leather goods and fragrances are found on the fourth floor along with the servicing department. The fifth floor is a workshop where master craftspeople work on the newest pieces. Finally, the sixth floor features an exhibition space and terrace.

View More Rooms Below

The Andy Warhol Salon

The Accessories Salon

The Elizabeth Taylor Salon

Photo Credit: cartier.com / artnet.com / hodinkee.com