Vicenzaoro, the largest jewelry and gold show in Europe, begins on January 19th through 24th. This year, jewelry writer and TrueFacet contributor Barbara Palumbo is heading to Italy to walk the convention’s floors and give us an exclusive look at Vicenzaoro.

To prepare for Barbara’s trip and coverage, follow @TrueFacet on Instagram and read on for a quick overview of Vicenzaoro and why this trade show is so significant to the greater industry and the future of jewelry making.

Vicenzaoro and Vicenza, Italy
The Vicenzaoro jewelry trade show kicks off the international trade show circuit. Over 1,500 brands—including small-scale artisans and global powerhouses like Roberto Coin—from 30 countries, descend upon Vicenza, Italy to showcase their latest designs, discuss the upcoming industry trends and hobnob with editors and tastemakers.

And the host city, Vicenza, Italy could not be a more suiting location for this fanfare event. Vicenza is one of Italy’s premier gold jewelry epicenters, producing roughly 1/5th of Italy’s gold and jewelry and home to 900 jewelry houses.

The Vicenzaoro Jewllery Awards
The Vicenzaoro show also hosts its own awards ceremony on the first night of the trade show. The Vicenzaoro Jewellery Awards honors excellence in the field of contemporary jewelry design, production and retail with categories like best international designer, best Italian designer and best marketing campaign.

The winners are determined by an international panel of jurors. For a complete list of the categories, visit their site here.

Environmental Sustainability at Vicenzaoro
The cornerstone of this year’s Vicenzaoro show is a seminar on environmental sustainability. The jewelry industry has been largely criticized for mining and using raw materials, so this panel will take a hard look at the environmental, economic and social responsibilities and solutions brands need to exercise. The panel will include experts from the Sustainable Pearls Project, The World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) Pearl Commission and CIBJO Coral Commission.

This initiative is a crucial step in promoting international support from the jewelry and gemstone sectors to help the United Nations achieve their critical 17 Sustainable Development Goals.

Follow @TrueFacet on Instagram as our contributor and Adornmentality blogger Barbara Palumbo takes us on an exclusive tour of Vicenzaoro with a behind the scenes look at the world’s most magnificent jewels and the jewelry trends for 2018!

So you’ve been bitten by the watch collecting bug. What now?

It’s time to start building your collection bit by bit, watch by watch. But choosing which watch to invest in next can be surprisingly tricky if you’re trying to be selective about what goes in to—and what stays out of—your watch collection.

Here are ways to structure and focus your watch collection so each model you pick and choose enhances the financial and intrinsic value of your overall collection.

1. Zero in on a specific watch brand.
An easy way to reign in your collection is to center it around your favorite watch brand. This allows you to really deep-dive into that brand’s history and the evolution of their signature models. Within this category of collectors, there is a niche group who favor exclusively the Patek Philippe Nautilus, drawn to its unique and groundbreaking design.

2. Pick a specific type of watch.
Another collection theme is to focus on a particular type of watches like diving or pilot watches. With this approach, your collection will include an interesting mix of brands and chronicle the diverse brands’ approaches, iterations and developments of the same fundamental watch complications. For instance, if you elect to snap up only diving watches, your collection may include an Omega Seamaster, a Rolex Submariner and Sea Dweller.

3. Find the style that suits you.
To narrow the range of potential watches, some collectors will edit out watches based upon a preferred case size or material. Once you identify your preferred case size (say 41mm), that can act as a filter and pull larger or smaller watches out of the running. Alternatively, other collectors will only consider watches with a metal bracelet and turn a blind eye to one with a leather strap, or always choose a stainless steel watch over a yellow gold one.

4. Invest in vintage watches only.
If the tradition of watch making and the long history of the art has really piqued your interest, a vintage watch collection may be an appropriate route. Vintage watch collectors appreciate the story behind each of the watches and revel in the hunt for rare and hard-to-find models. Check out our post here for more tips on how to build a vintage watch collection.

While this insight appeals more to collectors who have already invested in a watch or two, if you’re still shopping for your collection’s inaugural timepiece, read our post “5 Watches Every Beginning Collector Must Own” here.

There are truly only three watches you need to jump-start a respectable watch collection: a daytime, an evening, and a knockout watch. Our experts weigh in on their top picks of these essential watch categories. Cross-check this list to make sure your collection is covered!

A Go-To Watch
A cornerstone of any watch collection is a watch you can wear. However, this isn’t necessarily a throwaway junker watch to slap on your wrist. Rather, as a collector, you want a go-to watch that you’re proud to wear but one that can also take a hit, scratch or bump during the day.

To that end, invest in a stainless steel watch with a little bit of professional polish—but at price point that doesn’t leave you feeling like you need to handle it with kid gloves.

TrueFacet Experts Recommend: A Rolex Datejust
While yellow and white gold Rolex Datejusts can be quite pricey, versions in stainless steel—especially pre-owned ones—are quite affordable. The iconic model and the resilient metal makes this an incredibly attractive option for new collectors looking.

Go-To Watch Runners Up:

An Evening Watch
While metal bracelets have largely made the leap from sports to dress watches, every collector still needs a dress watch with a leather band. These typically minimalist styles make a smart, low-key fashion statement and dress up any look.

Look for styles that have a thin watch case so your suit jacket sleeve can easily slide over your watch. Choose a leather (or alligator) band in black or brown and, if possible, buy both color-ways so you can swap them out as needed.

TrueFacet Experts Recommend: Patek Philippe Nautilus 
At the time of its release, the Patek Philippe Nautilus was a controversial new model that defied the status quo; traditionalists balked at an evening watch made out of stainless steel. Today, the nay-sayers have to conceded and the Nautilus is an icon and a beloved evening watch, that, with its iconic sporty flair, is for the gentleman who wants to make a daring statement at a black tie event.

Evening Watch Runners Up:

An Impressive Chronograph
As you go further down the rabbit hole of watch collecting, you’re going to need at least one chronograph in your collection. Chronographs carry on the proud tradition of watchmaking and are celebrated for their precise timekeeping and incredible craftsmanship. In turn, chronographs hold a special place in every collector’s heart and collection.

TrueFacet Experts Recommend: Rolex Daytona
The Rolex Daytona ranks as one of Rolex’s signature and sought-after models—which is saying a lot given how many other Rolex models are also considered an icon in their own right. Round out your collection with this impressive and investment-worthy watch that seems to only increase in popularity (and scarcity) year after year.

Impressive Chronograph Runners Up:

Add a fresh splash of color to your warm weather outfits with a piece of jewelry set with these sprightly precious and semi-precious gemstones.

Amethyst
Amethyst is the violet variety of quartz. Natural amethyst ranges from a light pinkish purple to a rich, darker purple, with “Deep Siberian” purple being the most desirable—and costly. (It’s worth noting: pale amethyst stones can be artificially darkened to appear a deeper shade of purple so inquire if your desired stone underwent any processing before you purchase.) Amethyst offers remarkable style flexibility: it looks sharp set in white or yellow metals and the rich color transitions seamlessly from your spring into autumn wardrobe.

Aquamarine
The birthstone for March is aquamarine, a bright blue gemstone that perfectly suits the start of springtime. Aquamarine comes in a range of blue shades with the darker shades being the more expensive variety. However, for breezy spring, we love aquamarine in a pastel sky blue which feels even more ethereal set in white gold or surrounded by white pavé diamonds.

Citrine
Ranging from a sunny yellow to a bright orange, citrine echoes the cheerful spirit of spring. And given that citrine is a very affordable gemstone, large stones are easier to come by and wallet-friendly, so freshen up your spring look with a piece of statement jewelry that won’t break the bank.

Lapis
Lapis lazuli (or simply lapis) is mesmerizing dark blue semi-precious stone with sparkling golden pyrite inclusions. This breathtaking stone’s appearance has been likened to the midnight sky, complete with twinkling stars. The unique properties of lapis makes is a cool hue to add to your warm weather ensembles and, for the trend driven, looks particularly striking set in rose gold.

Morganite
Morganite is a semi-precious stone on the rise (for more on morganite’s recent boom in popularity, read our post “5 Colorful Precious Gemstone Alternatives to Diamonds” here.) You can also score a statement piece of jewelry with an impressive morganite stone to suit any budget. The romantic peach pink stone looks best set in rose gold or surrounded by pavé diamonds.

Paraiba Tourmaline
Of all the gemstones on this list, paraiba tourmaline is by far the most precious and valuable. Discovered just in Brazil in 1989, paraiba tourmaline usually contains lots of inclusions which cloud the stone’s appearance; in turn, flawless paraiba tourmaline stones are very rare and expensive. While this lavish stone may fall out of budget, its uniquely vivid shades of tropical ocean blue are too beautiful to not include on this list!

Peridot
Springtime naturally conjures imagery of green tree boughs and flora abound. And, to carry on that theme, we look to peridot which comes in a playful shade of lime green. Smaller peridot gemstones (think three carats or less) are common which makes them a budget-friendly jewelry option. But, as the size of the stone scales up, so does the cost.

One notable exclusion from our list of colorful gemstones are fancy diamonds. While we typically think of white or colorless diamonds, “fancy diamonds” in beautiful shades of pink, blue and yellow are increasingly popular as unconventional engagement rings. Learn more about how fancy and colored diamonds are made here!

Main image by With Love Lily Rose.

White metals never truly go out of style when it comes to jewelry and with good reason. Colorless diamonds tend to like brightest against a white background which is why diamond jewelry is often set in metals like platinum or white gold.

But there are other white metals available including palladium, silver and titanium. We explore the different uses for each and why certain metals are used for setting diamonds and other precious gemstones over other white metals.

Platinum
Regardless of size, diamonds are a rare and expensive gemstone, so they are often set in platinum, an incredibly strong and heavy metal. Platinum’s combined malleability and resilience makes it an ideal option for setting precious gemstones.

Platinum also has a rare elemental property in that, while it may scratch, it never chips or wears away and never tarnishes. In turn, platinum jewelry does not need to be regularly serviced. The catch, however, is that platinum is a very heavy and expensive precious metal so the price tag can be a turnoff for interested shoppers.

White Gold
Like yellow gold, white gold is classified as a softer metal. But, unlike yellow gold, white gold is plated with rhodium, a precious metal that gives white gold its white-hot finish and acts as a protective. The rhodium plating is incredibly thin so it will wear over time, turning that mirror-like shine into a duller, yellower hue. White gold jewelry will require regular servicing to keep it polished and bright.

Even though it’s softer than platinum—and therefore makes for a weaker setting—white gold is more affordable which makes it a popular choice in jewelry making, particularly for diamond engagement rings or jewelry with lots of filigree, an ornate pattern or design made with incredibly fine white gold wire.

Palladium
Palladium is a member of the platinum family and is often used as an alloying metal in platinum jewelry. On its own, palladium is slightly brittle so it does not securely hold gemstones in prongs (the little metal claws that secure a gemstone to a piece of jewelry). In turn, palladium is more typically used for channel or bezel settings that effectively surround the precious stone in the metal to keep it in place. Palladium is most commonly used for non-gemstone jewelry and is a popular choice with contemporary jewelry designers who want to use a less expensive precious metal in their designs.

Silver
While silver is the ideal metal for trendy and fashionable pieces of jewelry, it’s not a smart choice for setting expensive gemstones. Silver’s hardness makes it very difficult for jewelers to engrave silver jewelry with fine details or sculpt it into delicate shapes.

Silver also tarnishes very easily so you need to polish it regularly. (To keep your silver sparkling bright, read our expert tips for silver jewelry care here.) Although it is comparatively easy to polish all-sterling silver jewelry, the cleaning agents used clean silver are often too harsh for gemstones and could damage or discolor precious stones.

Titanium
Titanium is a nearly indestructible metal and its durability makes it a popular choice for use in accessories like watches or sunglasses. However, titanium is not recommended for use in jewelry making as its resilience (and greatest advantage) becomes its liability. Unlike other metals, titanium jewelry can’t be cut off your wrist or fingers, so, should your hands ever swell (think in the event of injury), a titanium ring may be effectively stuck on you.

If you have more questions about the pros and cons of white metal jewelry, read our post “Platinum, Silver and White Gold: Which is Best?” here.

Main image courtesy of Taylor & Hart.

A sea of all-black solidarity pervaded the 2018 Golden Globes in honor of Times Up, a foundation bringing attention to sexual harassment and systemic inequality in the workplace. The charged uniformity was anything but drab, however.

While the garments were dark, the accessories were anything but; amidst the preponderance of black, it was the add-ons that made a glittering statement on the carpet. Long considered a symbol of hope, renewal, and peace: Emeralds were this year’s standout jewelry trend. The green gemstones made a tremendous statement on a night charged with a message.

Issa Rae

Insecure’s Issa Rae, nominated for Best Performance by an Actress in a Television Series, wore an emerald in a brilliant necklace that accentuated the plunging v-neckline of her Prabal Gurung dress, highlighting the flattering cut of the gown.

Zoe Kravitz

Zoe Kravitz wore show-stopping Lorraine Schwartz drop earrings to accompany her demure dress.

Jessica Chastain

Jessica Chastain, the longtime brand ambassador for Piaget, wore the label’s striking Limelight Rose Passion earrings in a white-gold set.

Viola Davis

Viola Davis wore a beautiful, wrapped diamond and platinum necklace by Harry Winston.

Halle Berry

Halle Berry donned a pair of Emerald-colored crystal earrings from Swarovski, and emerald rings.

Ashley Judd

Ashley Judd in a Martin Katz oval diamond-and-emerald cocktail ring.

Debra Messing

Debra Messing in pear-shaped Colombian emeralds by Lorraine Schwartz and a 40-carat Colombian emerald and diamond ring.

Look through more glamorous red carpet jewelry looks from 2017 in our post here!

Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie Genève (SIHH) is a big deal in the watch world. This epic, invite-only convention is when the most luxurious brands and biggest names in watchmaking descend upon Geneva and show off their newest and most impressive releases. SIHH is the watch industry’s Fashion Week so to speak. Whether you’re a watch fanatic or not, here are some of SIHH 2018’s hotly anticipated releases everyone will appreciate.

Cartier’s Libre Collection

Cartier is releasing a limited-edition collection of five signature watch shapes and designs, reimagined with a radical and whimsical bent. Designers and watchmakers recast some of Cartier’s most iconic watch models, including the Crash and Baignoire, with exaggerated proportions and dazzling embellishments including baguette-cut diamonds, Tahitian mother of pearl and black spinels.

For all their unbridled creativity, the watches still include distinctly Cartier touches and pay masterful homage to their inspiration. Fans will love to compare the transfigured designs of the Cartier Libre with their original design.

Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate 910P: The World’s Thinnest Automatic Watch

In 1957, Piaget made its foray into the field of ultra-thin watchmaking with the groundbreaking introduction of the 9P Caliber. This groundbreaking released ushered in the development of its ultra-thin watch line, the Piaget Antiplano, which celebrated its 60th anniversary in 2017.

At this year’s SIHH, however, Piaget is poised to wow fans yet again with the release of the Altiplano Ultimate 910P. The Altiplano Ultimate’s case measures a mere 4.3mm in depth and is the world’s thinnest automatic watch. (To illustrate how truly thin that is: the Altiplano Ultimate’s watchcase is roughly the size of two stacked US nickels.)

While thin quartz watches are commonplace, slim automatic watches require an incredible amount of artistry and engineering to fit the incredibly complex movements and hundreds of components into a tiny space. To wit: Piaget’s watchmakers dedicated three years to perfecting the Altiplano Ultimate’s design. This mind-bogglingly thin watch is sure to make huge waves at SIHH.

Audemars Piguet’s 25th Anniversary Royal Oak Offshore

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore is the rugged sibling of Audemars Piguet’s sensational Royal Oak model which, after a rocky debut, has become the watch of choice for tastemakers and celebrities like LeBron James and Jay Z. (For more on the history of the Royal Oak that effectively saved Audemars Piguet’s business, read our post on it here.)

The Royal Oak Offshore, meanwhile, is celebrating its 25th anniversary in 2018 and to commemorate this milestone, Audemars Piguet is releasing three new Royal Oak Offshore models. The first is a reissue of the original 1993 Royal Oak Offshore with a striking blue tapissierie dial. The second and third anniversary editions (one in 18k pink gold, one in steel) are mechanical marvels; the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Tourbillon features a mesmerizing open-worked dial and is powered by the hand-wound caliber 2947.

Each model has an extremely limited release of only 50 pieces. If you can even get your hands on one of these bad boys, it will set you back $25,440USD for the reissued model. The price for the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Tourbillon, however, has yet to be released but we’re curious to see how much they fetch.

IWC’s $253,000 Portugieser Tourbillon Watch

2018 will mark IWC’s 150th anniversary and to honor this sesquicentennial, IWC will debut an impressive 27 timepieces at SIHH. Among these anniversary timepieces will be an (estimated) $253,000 limited-edition Portugieser.

Commissioned by the Portuguese navy in 1939, the Portugieser is a signature model for IWC, recognized for its elegant simplicity and clean dial. This latest Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “150 Years” carries on that tradition while championing IWC’s watchmaking prowess. Crafted in platinum, the Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon will amaze and delight watch fanatics who can marvel at the wildly complex hand-wound movement caliber 94085 that combines a constant-force tourbillon with a perpetual moon phase display. (In laymen’s terms, IWC’s master watchmakers have crafted an exceptionally precise watch.)

The IWC Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “150 Years” is limited to only 15 pieces. The fascinating complexity of the watch’s movement and the incredibly small release more than accounts for the Portugieser’s staggering $253,000 USD price tag.

A. Lange & Sohne’s Homage to Late Walter Lange

In 1990, Walter Lange ambitiously set out to rebuild A. Lange & Sohne. Originally founded by Walter’s great grandfather, Ferdinand Adolph, in 1845, A. Lange & Sohne was nearly obsolete in the wake of World War II and the rise and fall of the Berlin Wall before Walter assumed the helm. During his tenure, Walter revived the withering brand and restored it as one of today’s finest and widely respected German watch brands. Sadly, Walter passed away in January 2017 but he leaves behind an impressive legacy and one the A. Lange & Sohne watchmakers hope to commemorate with their 1815 Homage to Walter Lange watch.

To memorialize Walter, the watch features two seconds hands: one that sweeps and a central second hand one that jumps. The jumping second hand was originally conceived in 1867 by Ferdinand Adolph (Walter’s great grandfather) and later became a favorite development by Walter personally.

Other sentimental nods to the founder can be found woven into the watch’s reference number 297 (which is Walter’s birthday, July 29th) and the seemingly curious number of pieces to be released: 27 in yellow gold (to symbolize the 27 years between 1990 and 2017 when Walter was at the company’s head); 90 pieces in pink gold (borrowed from the year 1990 when Walter registered Lange Uhren GmbH); and 145 pieces in white gold (to signify the 145 years from when Ferdinand Adolph originally founded the brand). A. Lange & Sohne has plans to craft one of these commemorative watches in stainless steel and auction it for charity in 2018.

This year, TrueFacet’s president Andrew Block will be visiting Geneva and touring the vast SIHH convention, scoping out some of these incredible new releases. Follow us on Instagram @TrueFacet for an exclusive look at the trade show starting January 15th!

When shopping for yourself, it’s sometimes hard to rationalize the cost—particularly if you’re eyeing a piece of jewelry—and the quip, “Treat yo’self” can only partially justify a lavish spend.

But if you really want a piece of fine jewelry, there are some ways to cut the financial corners to get the same look as a precious ruby, blue sapphire or emerald without spending big bucks. We review three semi-precious options that are great lookalikes for colorful expensive gemstones and are a fraction of the cost!

Ruby versus Red Spinel
A high quality, flawless-looking red ruby can easily set you back several thousand dollars—sometimes upwards of tens of thousands of dollars—depending on the size of the gemstone. But, if it’s that intense scarlet color and vibrancy that appeals to you, a red spinel looks incredibly similar to a ruby and is a fraction of the cost. (For more on the elemental and cost differences of rubies, read our post on the subject here.)

Red gemstones look equally beautiful when set in either yellow or white metals. So whether you’re looking to set the gem in a pendant or a ring, you can go with whichever metal matches your current jewelry wardrobe and be happy with your selection.

Blue Sapphire versus Kyanite
Blue sapphires are an extremely popular gemstone and, following Kate Middleton’s engagement to Prince William with a stunning 12-carat sapphire and diamond ring, the precious stone’s popularity has only sky-rocketed.

But a high-quality sapphire with great clarity and an intense blue color will run several thousand dollars for a single carat and prices soar with larger sized stones. So, if that is not in your budget, fear not. There is hope!

Mined from Cambodia, kyanite comes in a range of colors with the most desirable being in the “sapphire blue” range. Kyanite is fairly inexpensive, even in higher clarity grades, so it’s the perfect substitution, and would look perfect set in a white gold mounting surrounded by a halo of pavé diamonds.

Emerald versus Tsavorite
Shopping for a natural emerald that is bright, clean (meaning with a high clarity), and affordable can prove difficult. Most emeralds on the market are included (sometimes heavily so which happens when a material gets trapped inside the gemstone while its forming), making them look cloudy and at risk for chipping or breaking. The rarity of a bright emerald and the subsequent high price tag deters many people from buying an emerald.

Now, unlike rubies and sapphires, there really isn’t an affordable green gemstone that is a dead ringer for an emerald, but there is one that gets pretty close: tsavorite. If you find just the right shade of a deeply hued tsvaorite, the stone could be mistaken for an emerald, particularly to someone not quite as familiar with either gemstones’ characteristics. It’s a much less expensive gem and one that naturally looks great set in rich, yellow gold.

To learn more about colorful gemstones, read our post on the topic here!

Hero image courtesy of Harper’s Bazaar.