There are times, as a member of the jewelry community, when I take for granted the fact that those inside of my bubble (namely jewelry designers) are not always known by name to shoppers in the outside world. While in conversations with longtime friends, I’ll sometimes find myself wondering why they have a puzzled look on my face when I mentioned names like Fernando Jorge or Arman Sarkisyan and the beautiful designs they create. Thankfully, because they’ve known me as a person who’s been in the industry her entire adult life, they often want me to elaborate and educate them on what makes these people and their work so special and what separates them from some of the more mainstream names in the jewelry business– which is also what I’m going to do here in this very article.

Here are five jewelry designers whose names you may not know, but who create works of wearable art and uniquely designed adornments worthy of your research.

Peter Schmid of Atelier Zobel
It is safe to say that Peter Schmid does what no other jewelry artisan even comes close to doing. Born in Ostrach, Germany in 1971, Peter Schmid completed a three-year apprenticeship with a master goldsmith in Schwäbisch Gmünd, Germany in 1995 before joining the team at Atelier Zobel as a goldsmith the same year. In 2005, he became the head designer of the jewelry house, before taking over the company as the owner. With extraordinary works that have been displayed in fine art galleries around the world, Peter has formed a following within the art community who see his contrasting patterns and unusual shapes for what they are: creative, substantial, and one-of-a-kind.

Nancy Badia of Buddha Mama
Bold, beautiful, and brave, Nancy Badia opted for as more creative way to make a living after working alongside her husband for twenty-five years building their family business. With the help of her daughter Dakota ( who is also a jewelry designer), Nancy launched Buddha Mama, a line of finely crafted handmade jewelry inspired by Buddhism and Eastern traditions. Nancy and her team travel the world in search of stones, carvings, and artisans who are able to help her to bring her spiritually-inspired ideas to fruition.

Daria de Koning
A graphic designer-turned-graduate gemologist and metalsmith, Daria de Koning is a born and bred New Yorker of Dutch and American descent. Inspired by her love of painting and attraction to cabochon-cut gemstones, Daria’s designs play with a mix of colors, creating pieces that use clusters of stones in a way an artist would when painting, thus giving the pieces she creates an organic feel that comes off as both easily wearable and eye-catching. Daria, unlike a handful of designers, is also extraordinarily comfortable at the bench because of her background in metalsmithing.

Emanuela Duca
A native of Rome, Italy, the contemporary designs of Emanuela Duca are a reflection of the ancient history of her homeland and the modern New York City, where she now partially resides. Through her use of textured sterling silver and 18K yellow gold surfaces which often resemble the look of volcanic ash, Emanuela pays homage to the ruins of Italy. Her unique designs come off as both primitive and sophisticated, and the metals she uses to create them allow her pieces to be affordable for the woman looking to start a substantial collection.

Moritz Glik
Originally from Belo Horizonte, Brazil, Moritz Glik, a shoe designer-turned-jewelry artisan, graduated with a bachelor’s degree in marketing and advertising before moving to New York City in 1991 where he quickly found his true calling in the jewelry universe. Loving colored gemstones and diamonds alike, Moritz found mastery in precious metals as well, learning the world of goldsmithing which he put to use in his mesmerizing works. His playful nature is apparent in his Kaleidoscope collection which uses multiple loose gemstones housed between panes of white sapphires to give the appearance of shimmering, shaking gems behind glass– a design that has earned him numerous awards over the years.

While the jewelry world is home to a plethora of extraordinary, talented designers, craftspeople, and artisans, these are five designers who standout for me because of their uniqueness and wearability of their work. And like any industry, with each passing day, new superstars are born, and so the design world has no shortage of talent, nor do I suspect that it ever will. This is likely why it’s easy to get lost among the big names if you’re a designer, but take it from the five above: doing things differently and thinking outside of the box will most certainly get you noticed.

Functional and fashionable, these watch and jewelry finds make for the perfect traveling companion as a utilitarian time-keeper, sweet souvenir, or versatile accessory.

If you plan on packing any piece from your fine jewelry and watch collection, read our complete guide to how to travel with jewelry and fine watches here, where we share crucial tips on how to double-check your insurance and how to securely pack everything.

Colored gemstones often switch off with each other as the most popular center stone for jewelry: for years, sapphire was king, then emerald started gaining popularity. Now, red gemstones, especially ruby, are starting to take center stage. Ruby, however, is exceptionally expensive, which is why we’re showing you your options when it comes to more affordable red gemstones that will allow you to stay on trend without breaking the bank.

Red Spinel

While spinel is available in a vast array of colors, red spinel is likely the most popular type. One of the reasons is that the average consumer with a naked eye usually can’t tell the difference between a ruby and a red spinel. But, there certainly are differences between the two.

Mined largely in the same places across the globe, a ruby – a gemstone which is part of the corundum family of minerals – rates at a 9 on the Mohs scale of hardness while spinel comes in at an 8. That means that a negative for spinel is that it’s a less durable option, especially if you intend on wearing it every day. Another downside is that red spinel isn’t as vastly available for purchase as rubies are, making them harder to find. However, because red spinel generally has a better clarity than rubies do, when you find a ruby that’s as imperfection-free as many red spinels, you’re going to pay a lot more money for it.

Garnet

January’s birthstone in the red variety is more on the blood-colored side with brownish undertones, but there are lighter versions of the gemstone out there if you know where to look. Almandine and Malaya garnets are more on the red side, and rhodolite garnets tend to have a purple-pink, raspberry color to them. All, however, are less expensive than a good quality ruby, are fairly easy to find, and will generally give you a similar look for the type of jewelry you’re seeking.

Rubellite

Also referred to as “red tourmaline”, rubellites can range from pinkish-red to bright red, and from purplish-red to reddish-purple, similar to many specimens of ruby. Most red to pinkish-colored tourmalines are colored by manganese but are also known to be colored by lithium. Again, in comparison to a medium to high-quality ruby, tourmaline is an excellent alternative, price-wise, and are widely available in the gemstone market.

If the three options above still don’t seem like they’re exactly what you’re looking for, you can also try looking at deeply colored pink sapphires, fire opals (though they are more of a reddish-orange), and red zircon, though the red variety is a pure color and is extremely rare to find.

The primary birthstone for the month of June is the often imitated but not quite duplicated gem that we know and love, the pearl.

The Origins and Cultural Significance of Pearls

The world pearl in English derives from the French perle, originally from the Latin perna meaning “leg”—a weird connection, but it actually references the “mutton-legged bivalve”, otherwise known as the mollusk that creates pearls.

Pearls are produced within the mantle (the soft inner tissue) of a living shelled mollusk, though they can also form in other creatures. They are composed of calcium carbonate in minute crystalline form, which has been deposited in concentric layers.

Often referred to as the “Queen of Gems,” the pearl has a history that reaches far beyond what many jewelry lovers today may realize. A natural pearl necklace comprised of perfectly round pearls that matched in color and size was looked upon as a rare treasure and often grouped in with some of the most expensive jewelry in the world.

According to author and gemologist George Frederick Kunz, an ancient fish-eating tribe that possibly lived somewhere along the coast of the Indian Ocean initially sought the shape and luster of pearls, which they discovered while opening oysters for food. However, it is still unclear when exactly the first pearls were discovered.

In terms of where pearls were first recognized, many countries have their own history with the gem. Some of India’s early recorded sacred books contain a multitude of pearl references, with folklore also stating that the Hindu god Krishna discovered pearls after plucking one from the sea to present to his daughter on the day of her wedding. As far back as 4200 B.C, the Egyptians used mother-of-pearl pieces as decorative adornments, and ancient Rome’s pearl infatuation reached its peak during the first century B.C. when Roman women upholstered couches with pearls and sewed pearls into the hems of their dresses.

According to the American Gem Society, “the rarest, and therefore most expensive, pearls are natural pearls made in the wild. The majority of pearls sold today are cultured or farmed by implanting a grafted piece of shell (and sometimes a round bead) into pearl oysters or freshwater pearl mussels.” It is a common misconception that only a grain of sand can act as the irritant that eventually becomes a pearl.

Notable Pearl Jewelry

While pearls have adorned many crown jewels, one of the most famous pearls in history had no connection to any nation’s monarchy. The Hope Pearl is a 450-carat blister pearl once belonging to nineteenth-century gem collector Henry Philip Hope (yes, the same man who owned and named the Hope Diamond). It is currently on display as part of the permanent collection of the British Museum of Natural History in London.

The Properties and Hardness of Pearls

Pearls have a hardness on the Mohs scale of 2.5–4.5 and can range in color from white to cream, champagne (or golden), to black (which are technically more like a greenish-purple), and pearls can be dyed to change their color.  

While we tend to think of pearls as perfectly round (and those that are do tend to be more valuable), pearls can also form into one-of-a-kind shapes that are interesting and which have character. Those pearls are often referred to as baroque.

Pearls are most popularly sold as necklaces or earrings, though they are popping up more and more in more unconventional settings, like engagement rings.

Fall is rounding the corner, and with it comes cool weather, the start of a new semester at school, and the end of the long, warm days of summer. Soon, you’ll be breaking out those thick sweaters and weatherproof boots. We’ve pulled together these wrap bracelets and watches to help you wrap your summer up right and accompany your wardrobe shift.

Fendi Selleria wrap bracelet

The simple, hand-sewn detailing on this leather wrap bracelet gives it a rustic charm that would perfectly complement any knit sweater.

Hermés Kelly wrap bracelet

Ever a classic, Hermés’s Kelly line is versatile enough to pair well with both summer and autumn clothes without sacrificing that signature designer touch that makes it so timeless.

Ippolita Wrap Hook Bracelet

This unique nautical design can easily take you from summer days on the water to chilly autumn nights along the pier.

Hermés Cape Cod Wrap Watch

This gorgeous timepiece’s unique lettering spices up its simple design and can upgrade pieces made for any kind of weather.

Michael Kors Runway Wrap Watch

A simple, classic face pairs perfectly with the double-wrapped leather strap and can dress up a cozy ensemble in a snap.

David Yurman Albion Wrap Watch

The pavé diamond and metallic detailing on this wrap watch makes it a perfect contender for a fancy night out, no matter the weather.

Movado Museum Wrap Watch

This metal wrap watch evokes the creativity of modern art while calling back to the classic designs of the 1960s, perfect for summer nights at open-air art installations or chilly afternoons at a museum.

We rounded up our favorite new and vintage watches and men’s accessories so you can surprise Dad with the perfect Father’s Day gift!

The legendary biannual jewelry auctions in Geneva are right around the corner. With that in mind, we’re taking a look back at some of the statement gems and noble jewels that have smashed records at auction in years past—specifically, the history-making pieces that are fitted with rubies.
Here are five of the of the most expensive ruby jewelry pieces ever sold at auction and a little information about each of them.

The Sunrise Ruby and Diamond Ring by Cartier – $30,335,698 USD

Sold by Sotheby’s at their May 2015 Geneva auction, this extraordinary ring broke records and, likely, a few hearts. The center gemstone was a 25.59-carat Mogok Burmese ruby that was accompanied by a report from the SSEF (the Swiss Foundation for the Research of Gemstones) and from Gübelin (one of the foremost gem labs in the world). The reports verify the ruby’s Burmese origin and “pigeon-blood” color and certify that there was no indication of heat treatment.

The Sotheby’s catalog noted at the time that the ruby “displays a homogeneous and richly saturated ‘pigeon blood red’ colour, which typifies the finest of these gems. The depth of colour, combined with a high clarity and brilliance, all contribute to the beauty of the gem. The shape and finely proportioned cut provides vivid internal colour reflections.”

The ruby was set into a platinum signed and numbered Cartier mounting and flanked by shield-shaped diamonds weighing 2.47 and 2.70 carats each.

The Graff Ruby Ring – $8,600,410 USD

Another expensive ruby ring sold at a Sotheby’s Geneva auction is the Graff Ruby, which was sold back to an earlier owner – Laurence Graff – in November of 2014. The cushion-cut, Burmese ruby, also of “pigeon blood red” color, weighs 8.62 carats and is set between triangle-shaped diamonds in a white metal mounting accompanied by bead-set round brilliant cut diamonds.

A Diamond Brooch containing 10.10 Carat Burmese Ruby – $8,428,127 USD

At a November 2014 auction held by Christie’s in Hong Kong, an incredible signed Cartier platinum, diamond, and Burmese ruby brooch fetched a whopping $8.4 million. The brooch contained a 10.10 carat Mogok Burmese ruby (“pigeon’s blood” in color), and, according to the Christie’s description, the ruby “exhibits a saturated and vivid red colour combined with a fine purity and a very attractive cutting style. The tiny inclusions found by microscopic inspection represent the hallmarks of rubies from the classical ruby mines in Mogok Valley in Burma.”

The brooch was also outfitted with four triangle-shaped white, natural diamonds in its corners and twelve additional square-cut diamonds throughout.

The Patiño Ruby and Diamond Ring – $6,736,750 USD

In May of 2012, a 32.08 carat ruby set into a gold Chaumet ring with trapeze cut side stones hit the auction block. The ring fetched almost 7 million dollars at Christie’s Geneva auction that year, and for good reason. The Patiño Ruby once belonged to Luz Mila Patiño, Countess du Boisrouvray and daughter of Bolivian tin tycoon Simon Patiño, who was also related closely to Prince Rainier of Monaco. Countess Patiño was known for her jewelry collection, which was largely auctioned off by her daughter to use for charitable purposes.

The Queen of Burma – $6,084,559 USD

Once belonging to His Highness Khengarji III, the Maharaja of Kutch, the Queen of Burma ruby ring was sold at the November 2014 Christie’s auction in Geneva. The pinkish-red, oval-shaped Burmese ruby weighed approximately 23.66 carats and was claw-set into a platinum and baguette diamond platinum signed Cartier mounting. This marvelous specimen was sold at a for just over 6 million U.S. dollars.

TAG Heuer is attached to connotations of prestige brought by the horological advancements that the brand made as well as the association with glamorous and dangerous races and movie-star race car drivers. It’s an innovator in the field of horology, with such accolades as being the first to create a chronograph dashboard clock and incorporating a rotating bezel into the design of a watch. This so clearly demonstrates why TAG Heuer watches are often replicated on the black market. To protect yourself from falling for a fake TAG Heuer watch scam, follow this guide we’ve put together to distinguishing a real TAG Heuer from a counterfeit.

The Dial
Though TAG Heuer watches tend to run at a much more affordable price point than, say, a Rolex or an Omega, the brand never sacrifices the quality of its products for cheap production. The dial is always very telling when it comes to sussing out a counterfeit watch, and because the dials on TAG Heuer watches are made to fit the brand’s exacting specifications, even the slightest mistake will be a clear giveaway to the timepiece’s artifice.

The Face
Like all luxury watches, TAG Heuer models have sapphire crystal guarding the face of the watch. This material is scratch-resistant and incredibly refined. To test whether the material on the face of your watch is sapphire crystal or just plain old glass, smear a drop of water or two on the surface. Sapphire crystal should not disturb the water’s surface tension, so it should pool together on the crystal. On glass, however, the water would disperse unevenly.

On the actual face of the watch, you should first and foremost find the phrase “Swiss Made” at the 6 o’clock marker. Some counterfeits have “Japanese Movement” across that marker, which would never appear on a TAG Heuer, or even nothing at all.

In addition to that, make sure that the TAG Heuer logo is cleanly cut and pressed into the steel of the dial, not glued on. If you find glue residue or uneven edges on the logo, then you know that you have a counterfeit on your hands.

The Lumes
TAG Heuer uses LumiNova technology, which ensures that the lumes are incredibly bright and sharp in the dark. If your watch does not glow brilliantly in the dark, even after it’s been charged in the light, then it doesn’t have the LumiNova technology and is, therefore, a fake.

The Date Complication
Almost all TAG Heuer models have a date complication, but only some have a day-date complication. Namely, the Calibre 5 and Calibre 16 models in the TAG Heuer Carrera collection will have both the day and the date displays. It pays to make sure that you know exactly what comes with an original version of the model you’re eyeing because this can expose a watch for a counterfeit if you find a model that supposedly has more displays than it’s supposed to.

Of course, in addition to that, it pays to make sure that the numbers and letters are perfectly centered in their display windows. A poorly-made counterfeit might have crooked numbers or ones that aren’t placed properly.

The Subdials
On watches like the TAG Heuer Carrera or the Formula 1, which are renowned for their impeccably precise chronograph function, it is especially important to test out the subdials to make sure that they are operational. First of all, each subdial must have a different set of numbers that it uses to measure time, as each one has a different purpose. Secondly, each chronograph subdial must have a pusher that corresponds to it, so play around with the pushers above and below the crown of the watch to make sure that both the subdials and the pushers are all functional.

The Case
The Bezel
TAG Heuer was one of the first watchmakers to outfit their timepieces with a rotating tachymeter bezel so that drivers who use TAG Heuer watches may time themselves and gauge how far they’ve gone just by glancing at their watch. As such, the rotating bezel on a real TAG Heuer watch should be impeccably designed. Test this out by rotating it on the watch you’re looking it: an authentic watch should rotate easily and should be accompanied by the correct number of clicks. A forged TAG Heuer’s bezel might not turn as easily or click correctly.

The Crown
The same test should be conducted on the crown. Authentic TAG Heuer watches have a remarkable winding mechanism that makes it nearly effortless to wind the watch: the movement is so smooth and easy that some say it hardly even feels like you’re winding the watch at all! On a counterfeit watch, naturally, you would feel the shifting of the watch’s movement inside and experience some resistance. Depending on how difficult it is to wind the watch, it might even be indicative of a damaged or at least cheaply-made watch movement.

In addition to the functional aspect of the crown, it is also imperative to examine the aesthetic aspect of it. The TAG Heuer logo on the crown should be embossed into the steel. It should not be a separate piece of metal pressed into the steel and certainly not glued onto the steel like it would be on a counterfeit.

The Caseback
Unlike Rolex, TAG Heuer’s casebacks are not uniform, so their design differs based on the model you’re looking at. One thing that they all have in common, however, is that somewhere on the caseback you will find engraved the following: the watch’s model number, its unique serial number, and its water resistance. All TAG Heuer watches are water resistant to at least 100 meters, so a watch that says it’s resistant to less than 100m (barring the brand’s authentic smartwatches, of course) is not an authentic TAG Heuer.

On a metal caseback, the model number, serial number, and water resistance will also be accompanied by a high-quality laser engraving of the TAG Heuer logo. On a crystal caseback, the watch’s information will be engraved on the rim around the sides of the crystal.

When checking a watch’s authenticity, it is also helpful to double check the model and serial numbers on the watch. This chart will allow you to cross-reference the model number on the watch you’re looking at with the official model number codes that the brand uses so that you can authenticate your watch. You could also call on your local TAG Heuer retailer to look up the watch’s serial number for you.

The Bracelet
TAG Heuer’s bracelets, like the rest of the watch, are impeccably made. As such, you can expect them to be expertly crafted, with high-quality parts. Counterfeiters often won’t take the time to make this part of the watch accurate to the brand’s specifications, so pay attention to this, as well. Every single part of each link should be made with separate, high-quality pieces of metal.

This is especially important to remember when it comes to the TAG Heuer Link collection. These watches are fitted with unique “S-shaped” bracelets that are made with separate pieces of metal made to fit together perfectly. Instead of using separate pieces of metal, forgers will often just etch a line in the middle of each link to make it look like they’re separate, but they really aren’t. This is a significant clue to a counterfeit watch, so examine the bracelet carefully if you’re thinking about purchasing a watch that may look like a TAG Heuer Link.

The Papers
Though a box and papers of certification usually mean that a watch is authentic, even these can be forged or faked. One way to tell whether a TAG Heuer watch’s certification is real is to look for the embossed holographic seal on the document. It should also carry the unique serial number that matches the one engraved on the watch’s caseback. This serial number should also be able to be cross-referenced with TAG Heuer’s records to authenticate the watch.

If you are still uncertain about the authenticity of your watch, we recommend that you take it to a professional watchmaker who can open the caseback and, by examining the watch’s movement, should be able to verify the authenticity of the timepiece. And if you have any other questions, TrueFacet’s support team is here to help! Find their contact information here.