Author: TrueFacet

TrueFacet is an online marketplace for pre-owned fine jewelry and watches. Every item sold is verified by our in-house team of gemologists and watch experts to ensure its authenticity.

What are Subdials and What Do They Do?

Subdials are the mini-dials that sit on the watch face or dial. Also known as auxiliary dials, subdials serve different functions—like tracking lapsed seconds, minutes, and hours, the phases of the moon, a second time zone —across mechanical and specialty watches like chronographs, calendars, and GMT watches.

Here we break down the different purposes subdials can serve on particular watches, including the chronograph and moon phase.

Chronograph Subdials

The most common subdials are found on chronograph watches. In the most basic terms, a chronograph is a stopwatch. By pressing the pushers on either side of the watch case, the wearer can activate the chronograph seconds hand or stop watch functionality.

A chronograph’s subdials are sometimes referred to as “registers” that keep track of the total elapsed minutes and hours timed with the chronograph. Another subdial also measures the seconds, down to 1/10th of a second for added accuracy.

The subdials are meant to improve the overall readability of the measured elapsed time by breaking down the seconds, minutes, and hours separately. By adding up the figures you read in the subdial, you can calculate how much time as passed since you started the chronograph.

Power Reserve Indicator Subdial

Some mechanical watches (which rely on a mainspring to power the watch) will have a subdial that reads out how much stored energy the watch has left before it stops running.

GMT Subdial

Popularized during the 1950s when commercial air travel was a growing mode of transportation, GMT watches allow you to keep track of a second time zone. Typically, the second time zone is set and read via a rotating GMT bezel and a GMT hand. However, select GMT watches will actually feature a GMT subdial were the second time is displayed instead.

Moon Phase Subdial

Unlike the other subdials on the list which feature numbers, the moon phase subdial features a depiction of the moon through an aperture (or window) that tracks the phase of the moon (i.e. new, waxing, crescent, full, etc.)

Day of the Week Subdial

Another less traditionally thought of but still classified as a subdial is the day of the week subdial. Similar to the moon phase, the day of the week appears through an aperture on the main dial and reads out the respective day. One watch model that prominently features a day of the week subdial is the Rolex Day Date.

Is it OK to Shower with Jewelry On?

We recommend removing all your jewelry before jumping into the shower. We know it can be so tempting to leave your stud earrings in or Love bracelet on but here is why bathing with your jewelry on is not a safe idea and the ways in which it can dull or damage your fine jewelry.

Water won’t damage precious metals but it will negatively affect their luster.
We often recommend cleaning jewelry with warm water with a drop of mild dish soap. However, prolonged exposure to water (particularly hot water) can leave your jewelry looking dull.

Steam will cause silver to tarnish faster.
If you love to turn your bathroom into a personal sauna, be sure to remove all your jewelry beforehand. Silver jewelry tarnishes when it is exposed to moisture and sulfur in the air. Humidity and the steam generated from your hot shower will act as a catalyst, causing your jewelry to tarnish faster.

Soap and water can wear away gold plating.
Commonly found on affordable pieces of fine or higher-end costume jewelry, gold plating is when a very thin layer of gold is electroplated on top of another less expensive metal (usually copper or silver). This allows jewelers to keep costs low by not crafting an entire piece of jewelry out of precious gold.

However, gold plating is an incredibly thin (sometimes as thin as .5 microns which is even smaller than the width of a human red blood cell at 6-10 microns). Therefore, it’s easy for the abrasive chemicals in your body wash to also scrub away at the gold plating, too. Read more tips on how to clean and care for gold jewelry here.

Your soap will leave a residue on your gemstones, leaving them dingy and less brilliant.
As resilient as diamonds are, it’s not a good idea to leave your stud earrings or rings on while showering. Soaps, oils, and lotions tend to leave a film on diamonds, effectively dulling their sparkle. While this won’t affect the diamond’s integrity, you will need to have your item deep- or steam-cleaned which is tedious and increases the changes that a stone may be come loose over time.

Moreover, particular gemstones, like pearls, are incredibly delicate by nature. Harsh chemicals (like the ones found in your shampoo or body wash) are likely to irreparably damage your gemstone jewelry so it’s best to remove them before jumping into the shower.

 

Main image courtesy of Ali Heiss.

5 Smartwatches from Luxury Watch Brands

Here are five traditional watch brands that are combining their historical watch knowledge and aesthetics with advanced technology to create some of the leading (and most stylish) Smartwatches on the market today!

Frederique Constant Horological Smartwatch

Frederique Constant was the pioneer of luxury Smartwatches and was the first brand to combine traditional Swiss watch design with Smartwatch technology in what they dubbed the Horological Smartwatch. By looking at it, you’d never guess this classic-looking watch houses Smartwatch technology.

The Frederique Constant Horological Smartwatch pairs with your Smartphone to track your activity and monitor your sleep cycles. Newer versions will also vibrate to alert you of incoming calls.

TAG Heuer Connected

TAG Heuer has long been recognized as a “gearhead’s watch,” first appealing to automotive enthusiasts and now gadget lovers in general with their TAG Heuer Connected Smartwatch, designed in collaboration with Google/Android. While the dial looks like a traditional TAG Heuer dial—modeled after the TAG Heuer Carrera, subdials and all—it’s actually a screen that can display Google Maps, music, Google Translate, and Google Fit. The TAG Heuer Connected even offers voice commands.

The TAG Heuer Connected includes an incredible range of customizable features; you can select and swap virtually every part of the watch from the color of the second hand to the watch lugs and strap material.

Movado Connect

Movado’s aesthetic and signature “high noon dot” were inspired by the minimalist Bauhaus movement of the 1920s and 1930s, giving Movado’s collection a very sleek and futuristic appeal that extends to both their traditional and Smartwatch designs.

The Movado Connect dial features Movado’s iconic dot and can display text messages, caller ID, appointment times, emails, music playlists, social media push notifications and Google Fit activity levels.

Breitling Exospace B55 Connected

 

Since its inception in 1884, Breitling has prided itself in developing precision watches, particularly for pilots and divers. So, when this historic brand tackled Smartwatches, is aimed at enhancing its premium, core chronograph technology with… Well, modern technology.

With the Breitling Exospace B55, Breitling effectively created electronic tachymeters and digital flyback chronographs. Breitling cleverly preserved its signature sporty design by converting the crown and pushers into toggles to scroll through menus.

Montblanc Summit 2

As the name implies, the Montblanc Summit 2 is a follow-up to the Montblanc Summit, the brand’s first Smartwatch, with some key updates to improve its overall functionality. The Montblanc Summit 2 is particularly distinguished for its large screen size (42mm) and attractive no-frills design.

Technology-wise, the Summit 2 includes Google Assist; Travel Info which is packed with international travel tips, tailored to your location; and Google Fit with a Workout Coach app that can measure your fitness level and track athletic progress over time.

Why You Shouldn’t Spend 3 Months’ Salary on an Engagement Ring

The adage that you need to spend three months’ salary on an engagement ring is painfully outdated.

Where Did This Saying Come From?
The notion that you need to spend so many months’ salary on your engagement ring stemmed from a De Beers ad launched in the 1980s.

De Beers ran a series of “Two Months’ Salary” ads with tag lines like, “2 months’ salary showed the future Mrs. Smith what the future will be like,” that essentially put a monetary value on the emotional value of a couple’s relationship. The amount inflated over time from two months’ salary to three months’ gross salary; thus, we are left with the saying that you should spend three months’ salary on your ring.

How Much Should You Spend on an Engagement Ring?
An engagement ring budget is entirely personal and there really isn’t a hard-and-fast rule to determine how much you should spend. But, if you’re looking for a ballpark figure, Americans spent, on average, $6,351 on an engagement ring in 2017 according to The Knot’s 2017 Real Weddings Study.

We hope this all helped dispel the belief that you need to spend three months’ salary on your engagement ring and, if you’re looking for ways to save on your ring, read our tips for how to cut costs on your ring without sacrificing style or quality here!

12 Modern Ways to Wear Pearl Jewelry

Pearls are a classic jewelry style. However, because they are so timeless, pearls also get the bad rep as being “old-fashioned” or “stuffy” looking—thanks in large part to the preppy Jackie O. types of the 1950s who made them the accessory of ladies who lunch.

However, designers are bringing pearls back into fashion with modern designs, offering up fresh ways to wear this time-honored jewelry material. We round up some of our favorite pearl pieces and share tips on how you can find pearl jewelry that is perfectly on trend!

Organically-Shaped Pearls
Skip the perfectly rounded and symmetrical pearls and opt for pearls that are slightly imperfect for a more casual look.


Pearls with Mixed Materials
Cultured or man-made pearls are more resilient than their wild counterparts and can, therefore, withstand being paired with other metals in an elegant and statement-making setting.


Black Pearls
Flip the script on the prototypical white pearl and don a piece with black pearls.


Layered Up Pearls
A surprisingly fashion-forward way to wear pearls is to take a page from vintage Coco Chanel’s book and wear layers of pearl necklaces. Look for a variety of lengths, from high collar necklaces to sweeping ropes of pearls (36-42 inches long), to mix and match together for a dramatic and playful look!

 

Main image via Vogue Spain.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD I GET WATCH SERVICING?

Industry-standard stipulates that you should have your watch expertly serviced every three to five years. Beyond five years, it’s likely that even a very small bit of damage (think dried up oil, a misaligned crown, or internal water damage) will balloon into more damage that will ultimately cost you big bucks to repair.

An Overview of Watch Servicing

To properly service your watch, a watchmaker will open the watch to clean and oil the components and inspect the internal integrity of your timepiece, replacing any damaged or weakened components. After the watch is reassembled and polished, the watchmaker will cross-check that your watch runs smoothly and correctly.

Image courtesy of Zenith.

Watches that Need More or Less Frequent Servicing

While experts agree you shouldn’t let more than five years pass in between servicing appointments, there are a few types of watches—like vintage timepieces and ones that you wear less frequently– that should be serviced more regularly:

Vintage and Antique Timepieces

By nature, vintage and antique timepieces are incredibly fragile; their components are likely very worn and therefore more prone to damage. Therefore, it’s crucial to have any vintage watch serviced every two years.

To learn more about how to care for your vintage watch, check out this blog post on the topic.

Infrequently Worn Watches

Surprisingly, the more you wear a watch, the better. But if you have a watch that you wear only sparingly (a few times a month or less), you’ll want to have it serviced at least every 5 years. Never go more than 10 years before having a watch serviced as the oil can dry out completely or the components can rust.

Any Watch You Know You Damaged—Or Even Think You May Have

If you dropped your watch, got it wet, or incorrectly set it (it’s a red flag if your date window is misaligned or the date advances at the wrong hour), bring your watch to a professional.

Some other tell-tale signs that you need to have your watch serviced sooner than later are a crown that won’t fully close; a watch that no longer keeps accurate time; or if you can hear a sound inside your watch when you could not before.

4 Fabergé Artisans on Their Favorite Fabergé Watch

Fabergé watches are rich in technical feats and creative design and steeped with history. Because each offers its own unique surprise flourish, we asked four Fabergé artisans to share their all-time favorite Fabergé watch designs and explain what about these timepieces they find most interesting and compelling.

Fabergé Visionnaire DTZ in White Gold

Philippe Holzer, Director of Someco, Dial Supplier
What is your favorite Fabergé watch?
Without hesitation, the Visionnaire DTZ in white gold

Which feature do you find most captivating?
Its magnificent dial is made of the perfect balance between technique and highly finished components, particularly the hour markers applied on a sapphire crystal. The aesthetic of the dial has beautifully combined with the movement through the magnifying glass and the watch’s sober and futuristic colors. I also appreciate a lot the high quality and refinement of its movement. It’s unique.

Did you collaborate on this watch at all?
Yes, the entire dial. It was manufactured with love and passion by the Someco teams, based in Neuchatel area, in the heart of Swiss watchmaking country.


Fabergé Visionnaire DTZ Gallavanter

Lars van Ruiten, Timepieces Sales Administration Manager at the Geneva Workshop

What is your favorite Fabergé watch?
The new Fabergé Visionnaire DTZ Gallivanter

What drew you to this model in particular?
The mix of a contemporary look with vintage colors and materials is very attracting on this piece and makes its face unique.

What were some of the challenges in designing this watch?
After having already produced the first version of Visionnaire DTZ in 2016, the challenge this time was not about the technical anymore, but about the look and collection development. It was an interesting production process, since all the technical aspects of the production were mastered, we had more time to focus on the esthetic and design, try various colors and finally arrive at this beautiful model.


Fabergé Visionnaire I Platinum Watch

Julien Midez, Watch Case Supplier, Queloz
What is your favorite Fabergé watch?
My favorite watch is Fabergé Visionnaire I.

What makes this watch distinctly Fabergé?
The flying tourbillon movement from APRP (Renaud Papi) which has a strong identity with a very unique Fabergé case; it’s the first case from an iconic collection for Fabergé. The dial, with its elements, seems to open like a Fabergé egg…

Did you collaborate on this watch at all?
Yes, I partnered with Fabergé for this watch. We produced the case. We have been working in the best way possible between Fabergé, technical project managers, and the Queloz team by considering all the technical requirements and translating them into the watch case. We are happy that we have been able to support Fabergé for this development and to contribute to the production of as other models as well.


Fabergé Lady Compliquée Winter Watch

Christophe Beaudouin, Fabergé Workshop Manager at the Geneva Workshop
What is your favorite Fabergé watch?
The Lady Compliquée Winter watch

What do you love most about this watch’s design?
The delicacy of its mother-of-pearl marquetry and the purity of its platinum case set with diamonds inherited from the famous Fabergé ”Winter Egg,” gives it a freshness of circumstance during this Christmas period.

5 Best Pieces of Advice for Engagement Ring Shoppers

Engagement ring shopping is a pretty daunting process. There is a lot of sentimental and financial weight associated with the experience that can leave a lot of couples with their heads spinning. To make the ring shopping excursion a little easier on yourself, follow these helpful tips and pieces of advice!

1. Keep an open mind about different styles.
Even if you have a crystal clear vision of how you want your engagement ring to look, try on a variety of engagement rings at the jewelry store. You will be amazed at how differently a certain diamond cut or ring style will look on your finger. The experience may introduce you to a style you hadn’t considered but now love—or it will just solidify your original desired design. Either way, you have nothing to lose by scoping out and trying on lots of rings!

2. Do not get fixated on carat weight.
A common pitfall among couples shopping for diamond rings is to equate diamond size (or carat weight) with value. Diamonds are valuated (and therefore priced) based upon the 4Cs, a collective grade based off of the carat weight, clarity, cut, and color. So a hefty diamond could be worth less if the other three Cs are not well-rated. And, on the other side of the coin, a small diamond could be worth more if it offers flawless clarity and color. To learn more about what factors into the cost of a diamond, check out this blog post.

3. Set your budget before starting to shop—and stick to it!
The very first thing to do when engagement ring shopping is to decide how much you’re willing to spend. Read our tips for figuring out how much to spend on your engagement ring here (hint: it’s not three months’ salary!).

Once you’re browsing so many dazzling rings, it can be very easy to lose sight of how much you originally budgeted and let that dollar amount creep up. That said, engagement rings are available in a surprisingly vast price range and jewelers can always work within your budget to find you the perfect ring.

4. Give yourself enough time before you want to propose.
Engagement rings can take up to six weeks to receive after placing an order. If you want to propose on your future fiancé’s birthday or a major holiday, give yourself ample time to receive—and, in the worst case scenario, exchange—the ring.

 

5. Have the ring immediately insured.
As soon as you have the ring and before you pop the big question, get your ring covered by insurance. You’ll likely need to add it to your homeowner’s insurance plan anyway but nothing will take the exciting wind out of your post-engagement sails like having to run to a jeweler’s to have your ring appraised. Get it covered immediately for peace of mind and one less errand to run now that you’re about to be in full wedding-planning mode!