Not all diamonds are created equal. Only 1% of mined diamonds meet the standards for use in jewelry. But sometimes even gemstone quality diamonds can use a little help to enhance their beauty. In the lab, permanent and non permanent treatments can be used to improve the overall appearance of a diamond. This allows the buyer to get the “look” of a better quality diamond, but for less money.

Clarity Enhancements

Laser Drilling

The appearance of an inclusion can be minimized by using a laser to drill a small tunnel into the diamond. Bleach or acid can then be applied to lighten a dark colored inclusion. While the overall appearance of the diamond of the diamond is improved, this permanent treatment is still noted as a clarity characteristic in lab reports.

Fracture Filling

Molten lead glass is infused into a surface reaching inclusion or laser drill hole to “hide” it from the naked eye. Under a microscope, a rainbow sheen can be detected to identify when this treatment is present. While the treatment may last for years, it is not permanent and must be disclosed to any jeweler prior to repair to avoid damaging the stone. Sometimes, heat from a jewelry repair or cleaning can evaporate the filling. Luckily, the diamond can be sent to a lab to have it refilled.

Color Enhancements

Irradiation

The diamond is exposed to controlled radiation to change its color. Sometimes the color is changed further by the annealing process but the treatment is usually listed as “Irradiated” only. This non permanent enhancement can be altered due to common jewelry repairs, so make sure to tell your jeweler. And don’t worry, your diamond isn’t radioactive!

High Pressure, High Temperature (HPHT)

The most common color treatment produces a permanent change in color. The diamond is placed in a machine that exerts pressure and heat to simulate its growth environment. This process can transform a dull yellow/brownish colored diamond to the colorless range or to a fancy colored diamond like green, pink, or blue.

Some of these treatments are also used to enhance the color and clarity of colored gemstones. The most important thing to remember is that any stone treatment needs to be disclosed because it can affect the value and care of your jewelry for years to come.

Comic-Con International, a gathering for fiction enthusiasts, celebrated its 50th anniversary this past week. Let’s take a look at these Rolex models whose nick names derive from iconic comic book characters.

The Hulk

Green is a color that is no stranger to Rolex brand association. The “Hulk” made its debut in 2010 to mark the 60th anniversary of the Submariner. This model marks the first time Rolex released a dial that was neither black nor blue. With a sunburst metallic dial and cerachrom bezel insert that match in color, this all green timepiece is evocative of its superhero counterpart.

With its bank vault case and cast in 904L proprietary steel blend (as opposed to the industry-standard 316L stainless) paired with an Oyster bracelet with solid links – this indestructible time piece truly is incredible.

Neither Mark Ruffalo, Edward Norton, nor Eric Bana have been spotted sporting this well known Rolex model, it should be noted that Robert Downey J.R. (also known as Tony Stark or Iron Man to some) proudly showcases the “Hulk” in his personal watch collection.

The Batman

With a cerachrom bezel in both black and blue it’s no surprise on why this GMT-Master II is named after a certain brooding Dark Knight. This was the first model from Rolex to feature two colors on a ceramic bezel. As legendary as Bruce Wayne, the Batman is a sought after model especially after being discontinued.

Those on the waitlist may have been delighted to hear that at Baselworld 2019, Rolex debuted the new Batman 126710BLNR (Previous model’s reference 116710BLNR). The newer reference is fitted with the new generation Rolex movement. Calibre 3285 offers up to 70 hours of movement when fully wound, twenty more hours than the previous model.

The release of the new Batman marks the beginning of Rolex transforming the GMT-Master II into a more cohesive collection. As of 2019 all models will have a bi-colored ceramic bezel.

On July 20, 1969, with only 30 seconds of fuel remaining, Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin safely landed on the lunar surface. Neil Armstrong exited the craft as the first man to step foot on the moon. Minutes later, Buzz Aldrin emerged wearing his Omega Professional Speedmaster, the first watch worn on the moon.

Built for Speed

The Speedmaster was introduced in 1957 and was popular among race car drivers and pilots. They relied on the split second timing of the chronograph function to accurately calculate fuel consumption.

Ready for Space

In October 1962, the Omega Speedmaster took its first trip into space as Wally Shirra’s personal watch. At that time, NASA didn’t have an official watch for its astronauts, so they decided to find one. They needed a chronograph watch that could withstand the unique conditions of space travel and could be used as backup in the result of system failure.

Engineers procured several watches from top watch brands: Rolex, Longines, Omega. After months of intense environmental testing, only the Omega Speedmaster remained intact. The Speedmaster was certified “Flight Qualified for all Manned Space Missions” by NASA in 1965. Fitted with extra long nylon straps, the Speedmaster watches were ready to be issued to America’s space crew.

In June of 1965, Ed White wore his NASA issued Omega Speedmaster on America’s first spacewalk. This mission caught the attention of Omega, who rebranded the model as the Omega Professional Speedmaster.

The Moonwatch

On July 20, 1969, the historic Apollo 11 mission to the moon was underway and experiencing technical errors. The Lunar module’s alarms were going off, communication with the ground in Houston was patchy, they were going to miss their intended landing site, and their fuel burn was too high. Amidst the chaos, Neil Armstrong used his trusty Speedmaster as backup. He left the watch in the module when he stepped on the moon, but Buzz Aldrin wore his watch as he walked across the moon’s surface.

To commemorate the occasion, Omega made the all gold limited edition Speedmaster BA145.022. Recipients of this special watch included the President, Vice President, and NASA crew members. A select number were released to the public as coveted collector’s items.

The case-backs of all Omega Professional Speedmasters were also changed to include the engravings: “The first watch worn on the moon” and “Flight qualified by NASA for all manned space missions”.

Omega Professional Speedmasters are still the official watch of NASA to this day.

The Cartier Love collection has been one of their most enduring collections. Initially designed in 1969 by Aldo Cipullo, the clean lines and screw motif had a universal appeal with a unique clasp that could only be opened using a special screwdriver. If the wearer wasn’t careful, the screws could be lost while taking it on and off.

In 2011 Cartier released a new version of the locking mechanism to minimize potential screw loss. Instead of the screws removing completely when the bracelet was opened, they would remain attached to the bracelet. Subtle differences in the design can help you determine if a bracelet has the new or old style screw system.

1. On the outside of the bracelet, the edge of the screw touches the seam of the bracelet on the new style screw system.

2. On the inside of the bracelet, closure has a “U” shape to keep the screw attached.

We hope this information has been useful and that you learned something new. If you have any questions about choosing the right Cartier Love bracelet, please contact a concierge associate at support@truefacet.com

The Rolex Datejust is one of Rolex’s most popular watches in the pre-owned market, especially when it comes to finding a great Rolex at an affordable price. On TrueFacet.com, the Datejust can be found as low as $2800.

But few may know the history of this great model that Rolex created. Rolex made the first Datejust in 1945, reference number 4467, which was only available in 18KT yellow gold.

Image from Hodinkee

It’s one of the oldest Rolex collection models that is still produced today. In the 1950’s, Rolex came out with the stainless steel and two-tone model of the Datejust with references 5030 and 5031. Also, the jubilee bracelet came out and was designed for the Datejust.

A substantial update came in 2009 with the release of the Datejust II, where Rolex took the size up a notch to 41MM from the original 36MM. Customers could now purchase the 36MM Datejust or the 41MM Datejust II. Rolex decided later on to pull back on the Datejust II as people wanted a large face as this watch didn’t become popular. Eventually, Rolex launched a larger case version in 2016 with the name the Datejust 41.  Today, the Datejust collection ranges in a wide variety of sizes for women and men, and comes in multiple metal types.

The Rolex Datejust has been seen in a variety of movies. Paul Newman was seen wearing a stainless steel 36MM Datejust in “The Color of Money” and Harrison Ford had on a Datejust 36MM in the movie “Frantic”.

Discover the Stainless Steel Datejust on TrueFacet and the variety of others available. 

The Datejust continues to be a popular Rolex and we’ll see how Rolex continues to iterate and reinvent itself.

A common question we receive is, “Which hand should I wear my watch on?”

The general rule of thumb is to wear your watch on your non-dominant hand. So, if you’re right-handed, wear your watch on your left. And, if you’re left handed, wear your watch on your right. Wearing your watch on your non-dominant hand means it is less likely to be bumped, jostled, and nicked throughout the day, thus will be safer from damage.

I’m Right-Handed, Can I Still Wear My Watch on My Right Wrist?
Yes, while the above is a general guideline, it’s by no means a hard-and-fast rule. Some people simply find wearing a watch on one wrist over the other to be more comfortable, regardless of their handedness.

One thing to consider is that most watches are designed with the crown on the right-hand size of the watch case. With 90% of the population being right-handed (thus wearing their watch on their non-dominant left hand), this is meant to make the watch more comfortable for people who wear their watch on their left hand, so the crown is not digging into you when you flex and stretch your hands and wrists.

However, there is a category of watches known as “Destro” (Italian for right) that feature the crown on the left side of the watch case for people who wear their watch on their right wrist.

How Tightly Should I Wear My Watch?
Regardless of which hand you choose to wear your watch on, you’ll want to ensure the fit is correct, particularly how tightly your watch should fit. Your watch should not slide up or down more than an inch on your wrist. If your watch slides more than that, it simply looks too big and sloppy. If your watch is pinching your wrist, it can be uncomfortable for you to wear and can put unnecessary strain on the bracelet or clasp.

A proper ring should slide onto your finger fairly smoothly but resist just slightly when you take it off. If you feel like the ring is difficult to remove or is too easily sliding up and down your finger, you may want to get your ring resized by a jeweler.

Before you head to the jeweler’s, wear your ring for a few days to see how it feels over time. Your fingers will swell and shrink throughout the day and based upon the weather, so you may find it fits perfectly in the morning and too tightly at night.

Resizing a ring is usually very inexpensive, between $50 – $100, far less than the cost of a too-big ring that falls off your finger. Some jewelers may even offer free resizing, particularly for engagement rings purchased through them.

Here are your different options to making your ring larger or smaller for the perfect fit.

Is It Better to Have a Ring Too Small or Too Big?
If you’re in between sizes or shopping for a loved one and don’t know their ring size, opt for the larger size. It’s easier for a large ring to be resized smaller than a small ring to be made bigger.

Resizing a Ring to Make It Larger
You may have heard of jeweler’s stretching a ring’s band to make it larger. However, we strongly advise against this method as it tends to distort the shape of the ring and weaken its overall structural integrity.

The most common means to enlarge the ring size is to add metal to increase the band’s circumference. In this process, the jeweler will snip the ring’s band (or shank) and insert a small piece of metal between the two cut ends to expand the ring’s size. The ends are soldered to this new piece of added metal. Then the whole ring is smoothed and polished for a perfect finish.

Resizing a Ring to Make It Smaller
Similarly, to make your ring smaller, a jeweler will snip the ring’s shank and cut out a small piece from the band. After this part of the band is removed, the two ends are then soldered back together. The jeweler will then clean the ring for a smooth and brilliant finish.

Rings That Cannot Be Resized
Unfortunately, not every ring can be resized. Particularly thin bands, eternity bands, or bands set with delicate and inset stones cannot be resized through either aforementioned resizing method.

However, if your ring is too big and cannot be properly resized, you can try a ring guard. A ring guard is a rubber of plastic tube that wraps around your ring’s shank to effectively make it smaller and sits on the underside of your finger where it will be fairly inconspicuous.

Ring guards or plastic resizers are not considered a long term solution to fixing your ring size problem. We suggest discussing your options with your jeweler to safely modify your ring for a better fit.

The smartest way to ensure your ring fits is to know your ring size before you buy. To determine a comfortable and appropriate ring size, check out our ring sizing guide here!

Main image courtesy of CHANEL.

Subdials are the mini-dials that sit on the watch face or dial. Also known as auxiliary dials, subdials serve different functions—like tracking lapsed seconds, minutes, and hours, the phases of the moon, a second time zone —across mechanical and specialty watches like chronographs, calendars, and GMT watches.

Here we break down the different purposes subdials can serve on particular watches, including the chronograph and moon phase.

Chronograph Subdials

The most common subdials are found on chronograph watches. In the most basic terms, a chronograph is a stopwatch. By pressing the pushers on either side of the watch case, the wearer can activate the chronograph seconds hand or stop watch functionality.

A chronograph’s subdials are sometimes referred to as “registers” that keep track of the total elapsed minutes and hours timed with the chronograph. Another subdial also measures the seconds, down to 1/10th of a second for added accuracy.

The subdials are meant to improve the overall readability of the measured elapsed time by breaking down the seconds, minutes, and hours separately. By adding up the figures you read in the subdial, you can calculate how much time as passed since you started the chronograph.

Power Reserve Indicator Subdial

Some mechanical watches (which rely on a mainspring to power the watch) will have a subdial that reads out how much stored energy the watch has left before it stops running.

GMT Subdial

Popularized during the 1950s when commercial air travel was a growing mode of transportation, GMT watches allow you to keep track of a second time zone. Typically, the second time zone is set and read via a rotating GMT bezel and a GMT hand. However, select GMT watches will actually feature a GMT subdial were the second time is displayed instead.

Moon Phase Subdial

Unlike the other subdials on the list which feature numbers, the moon phase subdial features a depiction of the moon through an aperture (or window) that tracks the phase of the moon (i.e. new, waxing, crescent, full, etc.)

Day of the Week Subdial

Another less traditionally thought of but still classified as a subdial is the day of the week subdial. Similar to the moon phase, the day of the week appears through an aperture on the main dial and reads out the respective day. One watch model that prominently features a day of the week subdial is the Rolex Day Date.