Author: Kiran R

Cutting the Cullinan Diamond, the Largest Rough Diamond Ever

One of the most famous diamonds in the world – and the largest ever mined – was discovered on January 6, 1905 by a mine superintendent by the name of Frederick Wells at a diamond mine in Gauteng, South Africa. Weighing in at 3,106 carats, the diamond was named the Cullinan, after the mine’s owner, Sir Thomas Cullinan. It was eventually presented to King Edward VII on November 9, 1907 for his 66th birthday.

When it came time for the Cullinan diamond to be cut, the stone was sent to Amsterdam-based, world-renowned diamonds cutters, I.J. Asscher and Company. Just four years prior, Abraham Asscher cut the then-largest diamond – the Excelsior, weighing 997 carats – into ten stones ranging in weight from 13 to 68 carats. It was determined that, because of the positioning of the diamond’s flaws, the Excelsior could not be cut into one large stone, but rather would be best suited as several stones which could be sold to collectors.

Joseph Asscher – Abraham’s brother – was given the honor of cutting the Cullinan; an honor he did not take lightly. It is said that Joseph studied the stone for months to make sure he was aware of exactly where each inclusion was positioned before he attempted to cleave the diamond. It wasn’t until February of 1908, in front of an audience that had gathered in Amsterdam to watch the famed cutter work on the most talked-about diamond in the world, that Joseph Asscher took that first step in the cutting process, but not without a misstep.

It had been decided that Joseph Asscher would cleave the Cullinan into three parts due to the positioning of the inclusions within the enormous rough diamond. Nine large stones were to be cut from the one, but upon attempting the first strike, Joseph Asscher’s blade broke, leaving him to rethink the process for the time being.

King George V and Queen Mary, wearing the Cullinan Diamonds 1, 2 and 3 and the Kohinoor Diamond

After deciding that newer, stronger tools would be needed to take on the task of cutting the Cullinan, Joseph waited a month before going back to the cutting room to finish what he’d started. The results were nine major stones (the two main stones, Cullinan I and Cullinan II, were given back to King Edward VII and both are now part of the British Crown Jewels), 96 brilliants and 9.5 carats of unpolished pieces. Upon making the first cleave, however, where the Cullinan was separated into two pieces along an internal fracture, it is said that the adrenaline running through Joseph Asscher caused the cutter to momentarily faint before inspecting his work.

The stories of Abraham and Joseph Asscher cutting the Excelsior and Cullinan diamonds are just two of the many stories of larger diamonds being cut into smaller ones, but every one of them share the same process. The rough (or raw) diamond is first examined thoroughly and under magnification in order to determine the most logical way for it to be cut. To mistakenly cut a diamond in a place where an inclusion exists is to take an expensive risk that many cutters would refuse to gamble with, especially if they’re going to be the ones responsible for the financial fallout should the owner of the stone decide it’s not what they asked for. Other factors, however, are determined by the person who owns the stone at the time of cutting. Is the owner intending on keeping the diamond for themselves? If so, is it possible to cut the diamond into one large stone? Are they looking to sell the pieces off to buyers should it be decided that more than one polished diamond can be created from the one large piece of rough? This is a critical factor particularly when it comes to famous diamonds, because an owner can earn a pretty penny by auctioning off polished stones in the future. And, like with the Asscher brothers, cutters of large rough are often vetted and researched before it’s decided that they’re the right person for the job. The last thing the owner of the stone wants is someone inexperienced when it comes to millions of dollars in diamonds.

The nine stones cut from the Cullinan Diamond

While the Cullinan remains the largest diamond ever mined to this day, there are still very large diamonds being found everywhere from African countries to Canada. I’m sure one will come along some day that will surpass even our wildest expectations, and I can’t wait to see how that stone will be cut and who will be chosen to do it.

Three Top Watch Trends From Baselworld 2018

With Baselworld 2018 now behind us, we can take the time to reflect on the top watch trends unveiled at the show that will be making their way to wrists this year. Watch brands have worked long and hard in the research and development stages to create the perfect timepieces – watches they feel address the needs of today’s consumers. These newest timepieces will be making their way to retail throughout the coming months and will set the trends and influence buying for the coming year.

While not everyone needs or wants the newest timepiece to market, reviewing these trends is a great way to keep one’s finger on the pulse. As such, we bring you three top watch trends from Baselworld 2018.

Color/ Interchangeability

Harry Winston Ocean 20th Anniversary Biretrograde Automatic in pale blue.

Easily one of the most important trends in timepieces across all price points this year revolves around the value of color and versatility. Watch brands are finally recognizing that people want choice when it comes to accessorizing. No longer is it ok to just offer a black strapped/white dialed watch. Especially today, color infuses our lives as a way to make a statement, to lift one’s mood, to be a bit daring. Thankfully, savvy watch brands answer the demand, with colorful watches lighting the path this year.

Blue is the stalwart leader in colors for both men’s and women’s watches, with dials in shades ranging from sky to marine blue making a strong impact. Red is a close runner up to blue this year, with a particular appearance in women’s watches. In fact, because red, moss green and bright yellow are important color statements on the runways in women’s fashion this summer, we are seeing a great pop of those hues in ladies’ timepieces. For men, blue is followed by a special limelight focus on dark green, chocolate brown and slate gray – all tones that offer an elegant attitude with a modern twist – perfect to accompany any young man to work, after-dinner drinks and weekend fun. In all instances, these rich dial colors are paired with color-coordinated straps, or — in the case of the men’s blue or gray dial watches — with contrasting brown straps for stronger impact.

Baselworld 2018 watch trend: interchangeable straps.

Interchangeability is also an important focus this year, as watch brands recognize that a single watch, a single strap does not cut it with today’s generation of customers who like choice and versatility. As such, many brands are unveiling quick-change strap systems that enable the wearer to change the strap of the watch with a flick of a button (or slide). Sometimes the brands are selling the straps separately, and sometimes they add on an extra strap or two in the sale.

The key message here: Don’t be afraid to don color on the wrist, to make a statement with a bold strap, and even to mix things up a bit. You may turn some heads with your individual style.

Vintage Appeal/Smaller Sizes

Another important trend that has been on going for several years now, and that bodes well for people who love a great retro watch, is the tendency to vintage inspirations. An important by-product of this return to our roots concept is the emergence of smaller watch case sizes and more classic designs.

Omega Seamaster 1948 Small Seconds, 70th anniversary watch.

As watch brands comb their archives to deliver watches inspired by the past (most often mid-20th century) with a twist of modern added in, we are witnessing the trend in timepieces to Mid-Century Modern. In some instances, watch brands are issuing revivals of key icons of the past with almost exacting precision (most often to honor anniversaries of collections), and in other instances they are inspired by design elements of the past — bringing them forward in new pieces.

Key vintage inspirations include size and shape changes such as smaller case sizes (45mm refines to 42mm, 42mm refines to 40mm, 40mm to 39mm, and so on and so forth); slimmer cases for a watch that fits nicely under a shirt or suit jacket, or that complements a feminine wrist; a return to square and rectangular cases of yesteryear. Other design elements revolve around vintage-inspired typeface fonts for numerals and logos, and retro dial colors such as parchment, silver, salmon, lacquered white for classic looks and in brown or black — often with tan or taupe Super-LumiNova markers – for sportier looks.

Vintage accents, including a smaller size, define the new Breitling Chronometer Navitimer 1 Automatic 38 mm

The key message in vintage and smaller sizes: Once again, versatility. You don’t have to don a big watch to make a statement. Smaller, thinner, cleaner looks exude a sophisticated air on the wrist – no matter your age. Additionally, the vintage looks suggest two things: an interest in the past made modern again; an insider’s knowledge of something special. Again, we can’t stress enough that what makes this category so wonderful is the fact that there are so many great vintage timepieces on the market that are suddenly incredibly relevant again. Imagine a Cartier Tank watch, a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso from a few decades ago; a smaller sized mini Omega. The list goes on and on.

Useful Functions

Useful functions are important today, such as in this Rolex GMT Master II.

While there will always be an emphasis on high complications in watchmaking — let’s face it – this is the benchmark of the craft – today’s brands are once again answering today’s customers and their needs. As our fast-paced lives have us constantly checking the time, running in and out of meetings, traversing the globe and conducting business around the world while staying put, we need useful features that help ease the day.

Those features and functions that are starting to infiltrate the ranks in bigger numbers include annual and perpetual calendars that help track day, date, and more; world-timer watches that display the time in multiple time-zones around the globe; GMT and dual time zone watches that typically indicate time in one or two other zones, complete with day/night displays.

Baselworld 2018: Breguet Marine Alarm Musicale watch offers alarm function.

Another useful function is the alarm watch. Granted, alarm watches are a very small category of timepiece due to the complexity inherent in their making, but they can help keep the busy individual on track for important meetings. Often, they even feature a vibrate mode instead of an all-out ring tone. For the active lifestyle that involves trips to the gym, swimming laps, running and more, a good chronograph watch – that measures intervals of time much like a stopwatch – could be your calling.

Many of today’s watches with useful functions take their cue from yesteryear, as well, but are updated in style or mechanics. In the past, great calendar watches were unveiled by brands like IWC and Patek Philippe, while GMT watches that are a benchmark standard include brands like Rolex. Alarm watches often recall the greats of the 1960’s like Vulcain and Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox, and chronographs of the past that are still in demand today include TAG Heuer, Omega and more.

Key message here: Look for a watch that fits your lifestyle. There are clean, simple watches on the market, as well as watches that address your individual needs on a day-to-day or weekend basis.

Inside Baselworld 2018 with Roberta Naas

Last week’s largest and most important watch and jewelry exhibition, Baselworld 2018 (which ran from March 22 through March 27), ended on a high note for brands, retailers, and watch and jewelry lovers. Because the number of exhibitors was down by about 600 from the previous year, many industry pundits wondered if the foot traffic and the excitement about products would be down as well. It wasn’t. In fact, not only was the show well attended, but the new watch and jewelry unveilings were actually exhilarating. Here is an insider’s look at what attending the crazy, wild, and wonderful Baselworld show is really all about.

Despite (or maybe because of) all of the hoopla and hurrah that defines Baselworld, the fair can be an exhausting experience for journalists who work tirelessly to find all the right products and stories to report on. Having attended the show for decades, I hold myself to a higher standard. I set goals to always meet at least two to three new brands and to seek out the most intriguing and interesting interviews to bring to the forefront.

The Rolex “booth” at Baselworld is a multi-storied structure.

Like retailers, bloggers, and other journalists, my schedule is rather grueling, with more than a dozen appointments packed into each day. There are also scheduled cocktails, dinners, and even breakfast meetings (there is never any time for lunch). The standard wake-up alarm is 6:30 am, and most nights don’t really end until the wee hours of the next morning. The schedule continues for six straight days: breakneck speeds and exhilarating experiences that I wouldn’t trade for anything.

Behind the Scenes at Baselworld

Even though I have been a wordsmith for several decades, crafting an article on working Baselworld is no easy feat. The truth is that this exhibition is like a journey through Epcot or Disney World – with individual buildings, cities, countries and their innovations on display.

For a watch or jewelry lover, being at the show is like being a kid in a candy store – delightfully tantalizing treats lure you in with each glance. Turn away from the colorful jelly beans you see and you find yourself staring at chocolate or even ice cream. Everywhere you look, you are mesmerized by shimmering diamonds, colored gemstones, and bold three-dimensional timepieces that often are “out of this world” when it comes to design and technology. It is here that brands unveil pieces that have been years in the design, research and development stages.

Watch and Jewelry brands unveil new pieces at Baselworld that they have been working on for years.

Most visitors arrive at the “Messeplatz”—the exhibition space that houses Baselworld—by tram. One step off the highly efficient Swiss green and yellow trams and the excitement begins. On one side of the Messeplatz is the not-so-innovatively-named building that is Hall 1, a multi-floored master structure that houses hundreds of watch brands. It is attached via a series of skywalks to other buildings (not-so-innovatively-named Halls 2, 3 and 4), wherein hundreds of jewelry brands showcase their wares.

Hall 1 may be the biggest candy store on the property, and as such, the world’s finest watch brands—from Rolex to Omega, Breitling, TAG Heuer, Bulgari, Chanel and more—build elaborate structures to display their watches in full glory. Rolex, for instance, has a two-story tall building that connects with sister-brand Tudor’s two-story exhibit space. Interiors, for those who can get inside, boast lavish flower arrangements, leather-couched seating areas and more. Patek Philippe, for instance, has a three-story-tall glass and wood structure that allows for viewing from any outside angle. The brand even has a two-floor video screen where it shows product videos on continuous loop.

Many of the jewelry brands have models showing off their designs at Baselworld.

Some brands bring in automobiles for display, while others have moon rovers, spaceships and even planes that underscore their affiliations with sports, aeronautics, and other fields. Adding to the theme-park atmosphere are live performances and after-hour cocktail parties where celebrities and sports stars from all over the world mingle with visitors. This year alone, we witnessed world-class soccer teams playing a real match at a Hublot event, music legend Nile Rodgers leading a performance at the Bulova booth, and actor Colin Firth speaking with Chopard about sustainable mining and materials.

In Hall 4 at Baselworld, Hublot brought in world-class soccer teams and held a match to underscore the announcement of its newest smartwatch honoring its relationship with FIFA.

Daily Doses of Glitz, Glamour, and Greatness

Because this is the biggest international luxury watch and jewelry show, many brands use it as the perfect platform for grand announcements. This year, Chopard announced that it would be moving 100 percent to sustainable and ethical jewelry, sourcing Ethical Gold and Fairmined Gold for its watches and jewels. This is a huge and difficult path for a luxury brand to pursue, but, in today’s world, we applaud the brand for not taking the easy way to luxury and, instead, being conscientious.

Other brands looking to remain relevant in today’s world announced their desire to blend digital technology with traditional Swiss watchmaking and unveiled new-generation smartwatches. Frederique Constant and Hublot both made significant strides in this realm, and we will bring you those stories soon, as well.

In addition to the experiences and the relationships we all share and forge at Baselworld, this is the proving ground for innovation, technology and trendsetting. The daily doses of watches and jewelry, of glitz and glamour that we experience are intoxicating. We see a dizzying array of everything from the sublime to the superb and from the basic to the brilliant. I look forward to bringing you the best trends of Baselworld in the coming weeks: wild, wonderful and crazy trends that will make their way to wrists, necks, fingers and more later this year.

Every booth at Baselworld is elaborately decorated to attract attention.

My Five Standout Moments from Baselworlds Past

Trying to explain what Baselworld is like to a person who has never attended it is about as easy as trying to get my eight-year-old to understand the Pythagorean theorem, and I am genuinely not trying to be hyperbolic here. Baselworld is, for lack of a more eloquent term, insane. It is the only place on earth where jewelry and watch brands spend millions of dollars to set up shop for a week and then, at the end of seven days, pack up and go home. Imagine that for a moment. Millions. On their booths. Which are sometimes decorated with waterfalls, sea life, or both. But there is nowhere else in the universe I’d rather be in March, because at the end of the day, my friends are there, my colleagues are there, and frankly, I walk away every single year with a handful of extraordinary stories. Baselworld can be a writer’s dream come true, as long as that writer is in the right place at the right time.

With that said, here are five standout moments for me from the Baselworld editions I’ve attended in the past.

My “Moment” with Depeche Mode

At last year’s fair, Hublot introduced their Hublot Big Bang Unico Depeche Mode watch, a collaboration that was not the first for the watch brand and the electronic music group. To kick off the new watch and to talk about the charity for which the band are spokespeople called “Charity: Water” (a non-profit organization that helps to provide clean drinking water to developing countries), the brand and the band organized a press conference. When I was a teenager in the eighties, Depeche Mode albums such as Construction Time Again and Violator were ones I listened to on cassettes (yes, cassettes… Google it) daily, so I knew there was no way I was going to miss an opportunity to see and hear one of the greatest bands of my youth.

As I tried desperately but unsuccessfully to squeeze my way anywhere near where the conference was going to happen, I found a standing place near a random door in the room and decided just to plant myself there and hope for the best. What I didn’t realize is that the door would open minutes later and out would walk lead vocalists Dave Gahan and Martin Gore, close enough for me to touch, which is when my inner-fourteen-year-old took over and excitedly declared, “I LOVE YOU, MARTIN! I LOVE YOU, DAVE!” It wasn’t pretty, but both men laughed and waved to me before they made their way to their seats.

Under the Table with MB&F and Black Badger

As if seeing and speaking to the Maximilian Büsser (of Maximilian Büsser & Friends, otherwise known as MB&F) for the first time in person wasn’t enough of a Basel moment for me, I was also lucky enough to get an appointment with the MB&F Chief Communications Officer, Charris Yadigaroglou, who eventually brought James “Black Badger” Thompson into our meeting. James was responsible for the glow-in-the-dark lume that was used on the 2016 MB&F HMX “Black Badger” and in order to get proper footage and images of the brightly-colored material, we had to find a place that was dark enough for it to show up, which we eventually realized would have to be underneath the meeting table.

It’s hard to describe exactly what this was like, but let’s just say that I stand roughly 5’10” in stockinged feet and that James looks like the lovechild of the Brawny paper towel guy and your favorite hipster bartender at that circus-themed bar in your neighborhood. Regardless, we had some good laughs under that table, and the images I grabbed were pretty darn rad.

Morning Champagne with Fabergé  

I nearly passed out from shock when Fabergé agreed to give me an appointment with them at my first ever Baselworld. I was relatively unknown in the watch world and yet this brand treated me with kindness, respect, and patience, and for that reason they remain one of my favorite brands to work with to this day. But on the morning I was to have my appointment, I showed up roughly thirty-minutes early so that I could meet with my jewelry industry buddy, Craig. As Craig and I chilled out in the amazingly comfortable waiting area, we were offered a glass of champagne by one of the hosts who were working the booth. “It’s 9:30 in the morning” I said to Craig, to which he replied to me, “Yes. It is.” Before turning back to the extraordinarily attractive Frenchman and stating, “We’ll have two glasses please.” Two eventually turned into four and when it came time for our appointment to start, let’s just say we thought everything from jewelry to watches was “FAAAAAAAAABUUUULOUS!”

My Selfie with Famed Watchmaker and “Living Legend” Philippe Dufour

Even though I hadn’t been writing about watches for very long, I knew exactly who Philippe Dufour was, and I knew what he looked like, so when I saw him across the room from me in a section of Baselworld known as The Palace, I decided to walk over and introduce myself.

To my surprise, Mr. Dufour was more than welcoming. We had a pleasant conversation, and when I asked if he would selfie with me, he not only obliged, but he also put one of his sought-after baseball caps on my head for the shot. It’s a moment I treasure to this day.

The First Les Trois Rois Experience

With a limited budget for my inaugural Baselworld, I had little choice but to stay at a hotel in Zurich, a decision that meant I’d be riding the train for roughly four hours total every day. It also meant that I wouldn’t be able to take part in the nightly shenanigans that go down at the bar at the Hotel Les Trois Rois, the place that has become the staple for any and every attendee of Baselworld. But last year, I knew better. I found a four-floor walkup in the city within walking distance to both the fair and the world-famous bar and made sure it was the place I wound up no matter what dinners or events came before it. If you ever get the chance to visit Baselworld and love a mediocre $35 martini that you have to wait twenty minutes for, then the bar at Les Trois Rois is right up your alley!

Looking forward to seeing what memories this year’s Baselworld will make. Stay tuned!

Understanding Baselworld’s Downfall and Bad Rep

Five, ten years ago, Baselworld was the hotshot tradeshow.

Baselworld kicked off the tradeshow season every March and the industry became a moveable feast, going from Baselworld in Basel and then immediately onto SIHH in Geneva. Insiders would hobnob and ogle the newest collections by industry giants Rolex and Patek Philippe and prepare their store’s orders well in advance of the busy holiday shopping season. The show would be capped off with sensational and lavish parties hosted by top tier brands, the most notorious of all being Breitling’s raucous bashes.

Jump cut to Baselworld 2018.

Brands—including big names like Hermès, Girard Perregaux, Movado, Fendi, Dior and Ulysee Nardin—are pulling out left-and-right—so many in fact that the exhibitor list is half of what it was last year. Attendance is on a steady decline. And there seems to be a collective groan from guests who are wrestling with whether or not they should even bother going.

So. What the hell happened?

Why Everyone Hates Baselworld
The biggest source of the industry’s ire? The staggering price tag of attending Baselworld.

Hotels, taxis and restaurants gouge attendees with surge pricing, premium night rates and menus printed special for Basel fairgoers (read: $$$$ prix-fixe). This seasonal inflation has stirred up a lot of bitterness in attendees. The high cost also pushes out any smaller brand, reporter, or retailer who isn’t flush with cash.

But the expense isn’t really the reason why people are fleeing Baselworld; after all, people and brands were willing to spend the money to go before. The difference now is that the incentives to attend are not outweighing the increasing cost to go.

How Attendance Plummeted
Putting aside the new product releases, Baselworld’s biggest draw was that it was a networking hub. It was an important place to see and be seen, get in front of key players and try to make some deals happen. But shifts in the greater industry landscape have gradually eaten away at the networking pool.

Baselworld Entrance

First off, the global market for watches is only gradually on the rise. After two years of dwindling numbers, there is a promising uptick in sales, but brands remain only cautiously optimistic. It’s hard for the retailers to definitively declare that their trip to Baselworld was productive and a success. Brands need to be more creative with their marketing budgets on how to help effect sell-through. (Cough, digital, cough. Anyone?)

Similarly, there are simply fewer watch retailers. Retailers formerly made up a key segment of the Baselworld attendees. As authorized retailers, boutique owners went to meet with brands, learn about the new collection and to place orders. However, as more brands have gone direct-to-consumers and opened their own retail shops, they’ve forced out other independent retailers, effectively eating up that Baselworld audience segment.

Another key segment that is dwindling: financially-backed journalists. That is to say, there are fewer traditional news outlets with the big budgets to send editors to cover the show. In their place are a lot of smaller, niche outlets, websites and credible bloggers. While these publishers may have eager readers and an impressive reach, they do not necessarily have the funds to cover the cost of the trip. And, unlike SIHH where journalists are typically invited and comp’d by a brand to cover the show, that is not the case at Baselworld: journalists are largely expected to pay their way.

Also, it’s not really necessary for journalists to make the long trek out to Basel anyway. So many brands preview their collection well in advance of the show, sending out exhaustive press kits or hosting local meet-and-greets instead.

So that knocks down the retailer and the journalist guest lists. What about the brands?

Where Did All the Brands Go?
When it comes to the big-name brands’ attendance at Baselworld, it’s a matter of one-hand-washes-the-other. There are virtually no retailers they need to wow with new product. There are a handful of reporters doing on-the-ground coverage. The Baselworld-network is smaller now and there’s less of a reason for them to invest in a Baselworld booth when there are so few people to impress.

Outside the Patek Philippe Baselworld Booth

Instead, brands are finding greater success at the local level and are setting up regional shows. Hong Kong and Dubai introduced their own watch shows to great fanfare. Miami also launched Watches & Wonders this year which captured the attention of retailers and consumers.

And some brands have gone even a step further: Richemont, for example, hosted their own show in Arizona for the convenience of US-based retailers. Breitling also launched their latest collection in New York with an exclusive black tie soirée.

Meanwhile, independent brands who simply cannot afford to attend Baselworld officially take appointments in the suites of Basel’s surrounding hotels to give retailers and reporters facetime with the watchmakers and a very up-close-and-personal look at the product.

This all results in a very circuitous downward spiral for Baselworld: fewer brands mean fewer retailers mean fewer journalists mean fewer brands…

The Uncertain Future of Baselworld
This year, Baselworld lost significant ground to SIHH, an equally luxe tradeshow that has become the preferred destination for brands, retailers, and reporters. The new tradeshow darling SIHH attracted more brands this year, constructed a sophisticated campus and kept tabs on the guest list by requiring all attendees be specially invited by exhibiting brands. (Baselworld’s open-to-the-public policy, meanwhile, creates a headache for busy working show-goers who need to dodge all the looky-loos and their dogs. Seriously.)

Yes, Baselworld, could try and redeem itself by creating a digital-friendly show experience in the vein of SIHH, who decimated Baselworld in this arena with reliable WiFi and special photo booths sprinkled across the show floor so journalists could snap and share social-media friendly posts. (And, in their defense, Baselworld is offering a live stream, push notifications with show news, and even an independent app to hopefully make it easier for attendees to navigate the show—or find the bathroom, a struggle all too well-known by longtime attendees)

But all these (rather underwhelming) efforts are ultimately futile because there is no longer a need for Baselworld to exist at all.

Baselworld, for all its glitz and glamour, is, at its core, a global tradeshow. And tradeshows today are not as relevant to doing business the way they once were. Previously, you had to go to Baselworld to learn about the product and get your order so it could be delivered in another six months.

But now? Now product is previewed in January. Now retailers can place orders remotely and receive product in two months’ time. Now journalists sit on articles before the show, just waiting to push “Publish” once their embargo is lifted. Ultimately, Baselworld is a sad reflection of the industry’s reluctance to accept the changing and emerging digital landscape. It’s stuck.

Yes, the prohibitive cost of attending soured the once fun-loving atmosphere, but, it’s not a cost-per-attendee issue. It’s a cost-value proposition. No one is getting enough out of this tired show anymore; we’re all just getting more and more resentful about having to shell out more and more money to be there at all.

So, honestly, why go?

 

 

 

VICENZAORO January 2018 Recap

As you may have read in my previous post, I had the privilege of attending January’s edition of the Vicenzaoro Boutique Jewellery Show in Vicenza, Italy. The show is the first major international jewelry trade fair of the year and is often the one that the industry looks to for the hottest jewelry trends coming out of Europe. It’s a show filled with beautiful baubles, magnificent gemstones, and some of the most recognizable names in jewelry, and this year was no exception.

Meeting with Jewelry’s Most Influential Names

One of the main differences between the September edition of the show and this January edition is a section called “The Design Room” which is located in the same area as big-name brands such as Roberto Coin, Pasquale Bruni, and Picchiotti. The Design Room is made up of several mini boutiques where internationally recognizable names such as Fernando Jorge, Federica Rettore, Kelly Xie, Aida Bergsen and others are able to intimately meet with buyers and press from all over the world. It is here that I sat down to view Fernando’s current collections and was able to discuss the future of his business in the United States. It’s also where I was able to meet Chinese designer Kelly Xie for the first time and take in the magic of her seasonal fairy works.

The Experience of Walking the VICENZAORO Floor

The exhibition itself is forged into separate dedicated halls numbered 1 through 8 which can make the show a little overwhelming for first-timers, but once you figure out the lay of the land, it’s relatively easy to navigate. For higher end luxury brands or finer diamond and gemstone pieces, Hall 7 is where buyers need to be. For affordable fashion brands, a visit to Hall 1 is necessary as is a sojourn to “The Glam Room” which showcases up-and-coming designers who use alternative materials to make their accessories and jewelry. And for that “end-of-the-day” aperitivo, courtesy of Santa Margherita wines, everyone – and I do mean everyone – gathers around in Hall 8 to sip the nectar of the Roman gods and listen to some of the most beautiful languages and accents in the world.

Unforgettable Moments in Vicenza

As a member of the press, I am also treated to some truly amazing experiences, one of which, this time, was a visit to the Basilica Palladiana in central Vicenza to take part in a private tour of the Van Gogh exhibit titled, “Between Wheat and Sky” along with my fellow international journalists. There, we were quietly walked through the stages of Van Gogh’s personal and professional lives and treated to a truly one-of-a-kind experience before being hosted at a press dinner at Vicenza’s El Coq, a Michelin Star restaurant on the first level of the Garibaldi complex.

Another lovely moment at the January edition of Vicenzaoro that doesn’t happen in September is that press gets to attend the Andrea Palladio International Jewellery Awards. This ceremony is dedicated to jewelry makers and jewelry associates in the fields of design, production, retail, and communication. Emceed by local celebrity, Paola Maugeri, press members and other attendees were treated to a performance by Loretta Grace who also performed at the beautifully arranged dinner immediately following the awards.

For me, however, one of the things I love most about the fair and have started to love about the city after two visits in four months, is that it really just brings me closer to my heritage through my chosen career path. While I’m only 25% Italian by blood, it is my mindset, my outlook, and my zest for living life to the fullest that is all Italia – 100%. I believe that a human existence should be filled with great food, great art, great wine, and great design, and I also believe that family is defined not just by blood, but also by experience, moments, and memories. Being in Vicenza (the North) as a descendent of Naples (the South) both enlightens me as to the differences of my heritage while enveloping me in the glory and honesty of my homeland. When I leave Vicenza – or Italy in general – I am never so proud to be Italian. I exit this town, and this fair, knowing that the people of Italy appreciate craft, artistic talent, and jewelry design like no other country in the world. And I left this particular show both with a heavy heart and a full one for all of the reasons I mentioned above and more.

On my last night in Vicenza, I decided to go to the city center alone rather than join my colleagues for a final farewell dinner. I walked Vicenza’s renaissance-era streets, took in the beauty of the city’s architecture, and feasted on local fare at one of its lesser known restaurants. I felt quintessentially Italian (and not via any percentage) but rather in emotion, and in mindset, which I only discovered by experiencing it solo.

The people of this country, this city, and this show are now my family; mia famiglia. And I genuinely cannot wait for our next family reunion.

 

4 Valentine’s Day Gifts For Yourself

If you’re a single adult, or one whose relationship is listed as “It’s Complicated” on Facebook, or even one who is dating but isn’t serious enough with anyone to consider the holiday gift-exchange worthy, you likely roll your eyes at that first red box of chocolates to hit the shelf at your local drug store the day after Christmas and with good reason.

For those without a Valentine (and even for many of those with one), February 14th is a drag, and not because they feel badly about being alone – most single people do NOT regret being single – but largely because, well, let’s face it: it’s tough to get a spot at your favorite restaurant on Valentine’s Day and that’s a total downer by anyone’s standards.

But fear not, oh Valentine-less Human! There are up sides being single on Valentine’s Day, namely that all the money you might spend on flowers that will likely arrive wilted, imported Belgian chocolates, and a bottle of perfume no human being should ever wear can now be spent on YOU. And trust me when I say: you’re worth it.

So, what do you gift the one person in your life who has rarely let you down (I say “rarely” because of that incident involving spray paint and your biology teacher’s new Cadillac in the tenth grade but let’s not go down that path)? You give jewelry, of course! And do you know why? Because jewelry doesn’t ask you to stop singing out of tune. It doesn’t complain when you leave the toilet seat up. And it doesn’t ghost you in the morning without so much as saying it’ll call you. It’s the perfect partnership, and the two of you deserve one another.

The kind of jewelry you’ll want to have this Valentine’s Day should feel fun to purchase, so I’ve laid out a few suggestions for you below so that you’ll see what I mean.

The Watch You’ve Always Wanted
Look… You’re a professional. You’ve spent years attending higher education classes. You have no kids, limited bills, and don’t even own a car because you live in “the city,” so what fun thing are you doing with all that money you’re making? Okay fine, you went to South America last year, and that was an awesome experience, but are you carrying around a box a sand from Ipanema Beach everywhere you go? NO. And do you know why? Because it’s not practical. Practical is something you’ll use. Practical is something you’ll look at every day with a sigh of sheer adoration. Practical, is a Swiss Made watch.

This Eight Day Royal Navy Silver watch by Arnold & Son is the ideal “sigh-inducing” timepiece for your wrist. With its mechanical hand-wound movement and eight-day power reserve, it’ll be a watch worth investing in as you start your journey of investing more time on yourself (see what I did there?).


Arm Candy Without the Calories
One of the great things about a bracelet is that not only do people notice when you’re wearing one, but you also notice, too. Your hands are constantly used in social environments, so a little bit of bling will grab the attention of an onlooker, and, if what you’re wearing is interesting, it’s a perfect way to get a conversation started.

For those with a penchant for the written world, this signature pencil bracelet by The Expression is more than just a beautiful piece of jewelry. Inspired by the adage, “The pen is mightier than the sword,” the brand designed the pencil motif in a variety of ways jewelry styles, making it an important part of their collection.


Put a Ring (and a Bow) On It
Despite what your last boyfriend said as you kicked him out of the house, you are a gift. You’re a gift to your friends, to your family, and to your co-workers, but most importantly, you are a gift to you. With that in mind, you should treat yourself to a piece of jewelry that makes you feel like the gift you are.

The Bow Ring by talented jewelry artisan Mimi So will have you wrapped up and ready to go in a feminine but empowering way. The ring is available in a variety of metals and with various gemstones, but you should opt for diamonds, because let’s face it, you deserve the best this Valentine’s Day.


What it Means to be “All Ears”
Gurl, it’s time to bag those studs (I’m talking about earrings here…) and grab yourself a pair of power earrings. Maybe something shiny, dangly, and flirty. Something that says, “I like my coffee the way I like my men: strong, a little sweet, and plentiful.” Something that will make you feel like a better you when you wear them– which you should, and often.

I suggest these Dancing in the Rain 18K gold dangle earrings by Italian jewelry house, Nanis. They’re affordable, versatile, and would look great with your new “I hate Valentine’s Day” haircut. And you’ll love how light they feel when you put them on.

Now, what are you waiting for? Get shopping! Don’t you dare keep you waiting.

 

 

A Day in the Life of Barbara Palumbo: 2018 VICENZAORO Jewelry Expo

I welcome you to join me on the journey of my last day at the VICENZAORO jewelry show through a timeline of events ending with my final thoughts on the show and my experiences. Let’s go!

5:30 A.M.
Alarm sounds. There are days when I really think about cutting my hair short just because I feel like I’d be able to grab an extra hour or more of sleep. I must be crazy to go out in Italy the night before and think that I’ll just pop up out of bed, fresh as a daisy, ready to hit the ground running. Yeah, at the ripe age of 45, that’s not happening. (Hits snooze).

5:40 A.M.
Alarm sounds. Again. Ooooookay, it’s now or never. Rise and shine, self.

8:35 A.M.
The ten-minute walk to the shuttle stop every morning is the perfect way to start a day that will largely be spent indoors at the Fiera di Vicenza expo center. The temperature is roughly 20 degrees here in Vicenza, and the neighborhood I’m staying in makes for a lovely scenic route, although on my first day headed to show, I asked a random Italian woman for directions to the hotel where the shuttle picks up, and she sent me in the complete opposite direction, causing me – with no Wi-Fi service – to momentarily get lost. But hey, if you’re going to be lost anywhere in the world, it may as well be lost in Italy!

9:00 A.M.
My arrival at VICENZAORO always feels special. One look at the incoming attendees will convince anyone just how diverse a show this one is. There are people here from all over the world, speaking all sorts of languages and wearing jewelry styles as different as their countries of origin.

9:10 A.M.
After a quick check-in, I head to the VIP lounge for a much-needed espresso and croissant.

9:30 A.M.
The Jewelry Technology Forum Conference is happening over in Hall 7, but instead, I opt to do some last-minute jewelry hunting before having to leave home for the States tomorrow morning.

A gorgeous ring by Fernando Jorge

9:50 A.M.
I stop in to see the wonderful people at Roberto Coin and speak at length to them about their “Animalier” collection, particularly their ram’s head which I’m totally smitten with.

10:20 A.M.
I run into Jennifer Ewah, founder of the Eden Diodati jewelry line, which is a line of jewelry created by an extraordinary cooperative of women who survived the genocide in Rwanda. According to the brand, “Employing centuries old artisanal heritage and craftsmanship, their skill, courage, fortitude and faith inspires Eden Diodati’s creative direction, whilst challenging preconceptions of ‘Made in Africa.’” Jennifer and I discuss future initiatives and trade our personal experiences as women in the jewelry industry, and I find in her another powerhouse leader to move us forward in a world that so often tries to hold us back.

10:50 A.M.
A quick stop at the booth of Marco Dal Maso for our obligatory “Italians with Good Hair” picture. What can I say? It’s our tradition.

11:45 A.M.
After hours of going aisle by aisle, visiting brands and ogling jewels, it’s nearly my favorite time of day, so I head toward the escalator to the buyer’s lounge on the 2nd floor to visit my favorite bartender, Umberto.

The Design Room

12:20 P.M.
Lunch is served and that means PROSECCO! Not too much prosecco, of course, or else I won’t be able to pronounce my own blog name, which most people struggle with to begin with, even when sober.

1:30 P.M.
Time for one last visit to The Design Room in Hall 7, which houses such extraordinary jewelry designers and brands such as Fernando Jorge, Federica Rettore, Qayten, Aida Bergsen, and others. Upon taking my final images, saying my farewells, and giving double kisses to the Europeans, I bid my jewelry friends a fond arrivaderci and head toward the booths in Hall 6.

2:25 P.M.
I take my seat in the VO Square Room in Hall 6 to take in the seminar on sustainable gold and why it’s an opportunity for both investors and manufacturers in the jewelry industry. Sustainability is a topic that more and more businesses and trade shows are putting focus on, so this is important to a lot of people as one can see based on the standing-room-only crowd.

3:50 P.M.
I head to the press room to take full advantage of the Wi-Fi which I know I won’t have once I get back to my flat for the evening. There, I go over my notes, delete some less-than-stellar product shots from my camera, and put one final double-espresso into my body as I prepare for my final night in Italy. What is it about espresso? It’s like magic in a tiny cup and I thank the coffee bean gods that it exists in my world.

5:30 P.M.
The VICENZAORO daily happy hour is now in full swing in Hall 8, and the Italians and I are tossing back wine like there’s a soon to be a grape shortage (full disclosure: there isn’t). It’s my final opportunity to spend time with friends old and new, with colleagues and fellow journalists, and with people from all over the jewelry community. The daily happy hour allows for both vendors and clients to release some of their stresses, have a drink, a couple of laughs, and toast the industry that we all call home. I finish my final glass, say farewell to my hosts, and head out into the cold night to hail a taxi into town.

A beautiful evening in Vicenza, Italy

7:00 P.M.
After having spent nine days in Europe – first in Geneva for the SIHH and then here in Vicenza for VICENZAORO – what I desperately needed for my own mental health was a night to focus on all that transpired over the last week and a half. So after a brisk walk through this beautiful and often underrated city, I stopped into Bar Borsa for a meal of whole wheat tagliatelle with rabbit and artichoke ragu, and two glasses of a New Zealand sauvignon blanc. The atmosphere was quintessentially Italian: couples on dates, friends laughing in their native language, and show attendees looking for a little bit of the local fare. It was exactly where I wanted to be at that moment, and it allowed me to take in just how lucky I am that I get to do these things for a living.

The show was a success from all that I gathered and after speaking with many of the show’s exhibitors and attendees. It’s the first major jewelry show of the year and gives us great perspective as to what we need to look out for, trend wise, in the weeks and months to come. To those who made this trip happen, and to my friends at the IEG, VO, and LBG, I bid you all CIAO! (For now.)