Perpetual calendar watches are one of the most coveted complications on the market today thanks to the wealth of information they offer the wearer and thanks to their harmoniously balanced dial designs. Essentially, a perpetual calendar displays the time and tracks and displays the day, date, month—automatically taking into account the different month lengths—and leap years. Most also display the phases of the moon, which you can find out more about here.

With the exception of a few perpetual calendar watches that will run for centuries, today’s perpetual calendar watches track the time and calendar information automatically until the year 2100, before needing a single adjustment on March 1, 2100. That necessary adjustment has nothing to do with the watch’s inability to continue tracking, but rather, is the result of a change in the Gregorian calendar. In the year 2100, the leap year that should occur will be skipped so that real time (according to the Gregorian calendar) coincides correctly with solar time.

Not all perpetual calendars offer the same indications in the same layout or format on the dial. Generally, watch brands use smaller subdials on the main dial to indicate the date, day of the week, and month. However, sometimes windows or apertures are used, and other times pointers and hands are used. A true “form follows function” concept, the ultimate design of the perpetual calendar watch dial follows the configuration of the movement.

How the Perpetual Calendar Complication Works

Considered a grand complication in watchmaking, perpetual calendar watches are incredibly complex, with many housing several hundred components in their movement. A labyrinth of gears, wheels, teeth, levers and more work together much like a basic computer program with a built-in mechanical memory of 1,461 days (four years). Essentially, the complex disk-and-lever systems are able to mechanically calculate the correct number of days in a month, whether it is composed of 28, 30 or 31 days, as well as the 29 days of February in a leap year.

Most perpetual calendar watches are designed to “think” that all months have 31 days. At the end of months with fewer days, the disk-and-lever systems mechanically inform the date wheel, which will skip through the unused dates to be in sync with the first day of the new month.

The calendar indications are synchronized using a long lever that guides the mechanical program and transmits the information to the appropriate display mechanisms, adjusting all of the watch’s other indications (day, leap year, etc.). The only real catch here is that the owner of a mechanical perpetual calendar watch must keep it wound (mechanical watch winders work beautifully for this), otherwise there is a bit of work involved in setting all of the functions to sync again.

History and Future of Perpetual Calendar Watches

Early calendar timepieces date back to the 15th century when astronomical clock towers inspired clockmakers to incorporate such features into large clocks. Throughout the ensuing centuries, as clocks developed, so did calendar functions—moving from watches that needed to be adjusted at the end of each month (complete or full calendars) to annual calendar watches that need a single adjustment annually on March 1, and to the perpetual calendar that needs no adjustment at all until 2100 and for a century at a time thereafter.

The development of the perpetual calendar system has been credited to British watchmaker Thomas Mudge, who invented the detached lever escapement in 1755 that made the perpetual calendar pocket watch possible. That watch is at the British Museum in London. The idea of the perpetual calendar watch, though, somehow went untouched for about another century. In 1853, Jules Louis Audemars created a perpetual calendar watch as a school piece that later transformed so that in 1875, when Audemars joined with Edward Piguet, the final pocket watch perpetual calendar that was unveiled featured a circular cam consisting of 48 months accounting for differences in dates. This was the true precursor of today’s perpetual calendar watches.

Many of today’s haute horology brands have patents on their perpetual calendar watches for a new system, a new way to display the information, or for added functions. Breguet has a patented In-Line Perpetual Calendar watch that has an instant year change, and IWC has developed a system to display the moon phase from both hemispheres on its Portuguese Perpetual Calendar. A handful of brands, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek Philippe, IWC, and Ulysse Nardin, have even developed calendars that are accurate beyond the year 2100.

Additionally, some brands combine the complicated perpetual calendar watch with other functions, including astronomical indications such as equations of time or star constellations, chronographs, and even tourbillon escapements. While these watches are expensive, they are well worth the money, as they are complicated and will definitely hold their value. Smartwatch collectors regularly scour the second-hand or pre-loved watch market to find a good deal on a perpetual calendar watch.

While all watches have their strong points, there are some key watches that—for one reason or another, perhaps a distinct feature or a signature look— have become real legends in time. These are the timepieces that, despite evolutions, continue decade after decade to be sure-bet winners. Here, we take a look at 10 of the most iconic watch models that any watch collector should covet and hopefully own. Immediately identifiable across a crowded room, these could be the coolest watches of all time.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

Usually referred to simply as the Rolex Daytona, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona was first officially introduced to the world in 1963. Designed for professional racecar drivers, the watch features a chronograph for measuring laps and a tachymeter for measuring speed.

Before the introduction of the Daytona watch, Rolex was a coveted brand among racing legends, with many wearing them at the racetracks. In fact, Rolex had been involved with the races at Daytona International Speedway since 1959, so the introduction of an official “Daytona” watch was imminent. Once the brand released the Daytona, it immediately became synonymous with high performance and the world of motor sports. It was a favorite of actor and driver Paul Newman, who made the white dial/black subdial Daytona famous. Paul Newman’s own Rolex Daytona Paul Newman watch sold in 2017 at auction for $17 million.

Omega Speedmaster

For well over half a century, the Omega Speedmaster watch has been synonymous with space exploration and pioneering technology. In the early stages of America’s space missions, the Omega Speedmaster, which had been designed as an instrument for auto racing and unveiled to the world in 1957, underwent rigorous testing by NASA.

In 1965, it was deemed the official timepiece for the space agency and the Apollo space missions. Officially the first watch worn on the moon—and nicknamed “Moonwatch” because of that —the Omega Speedmaster is the only watch to be given the prestigious Snoopy Award for saving the lives of the 1970 Apollo 13 astronauts, who used the watch to perfectly time their re-entry into Earth’s atmosphere when their on-board instruments failed. Also lovingly referred to as “Speedy,” the Speedmaster is constantly updated in terms of technology, but the brand remains true to the aesthetics of the original. No watch collection is complete without a Moonwatch.

Breitling Navitimer

A quintessential “must” for aviation lovers, the Breitling Navitimer was first unveiled to the world in 1952 as a wrist chronograph with a circular slide rule that enables pilots to make all navigation- and fuel-related calculations. The watch became a legendary tool for aviation buffs, as well as for military pilots in many countries, and so quickly achieved cult-like status. Interestingly enough, astronaut Scott Carpenter wore the Breitling Navitimer on his 1962 orbital flight around Earth aboard the Aurora 7 capsule.

Today, many professional pilots, including the Breitling Jet Team, an aerobatic aviation team, wear the Navitimer. As Breitling has evolved, equipping the Navitimer with its own in-house movements, and making some design tweaks, it has never swayed from the distinctive design, or from the chronograph/slide-rule combination.

Patek Philippe Calatrava

Classically elegant, the round Patek Philippe Calatrava is distinguishable by its incredible hobnail pattern on the case that, when the watch was first released in 1932, was a revolutionary design concept. The watch was named for a Spanish order of knighthood, whose emblem Patek Philippe adopted as its symbol.

While the brand has unveiled a host of new Calatrava models over the past 86 years, it has never really swayed from the overall design ethos. Today, most Calatrava watches house mechanical movements and offer simple three-hand time/date functions. The Patek Philippe Calatrava watch is, perhaps, the single most important cornerstone of a good watch collection.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

It was in 1931 that Jaeger-LeCoultre first unveiled the Reverso watch. It was a reversible watch that pushed sideways out of the case and could be swiveled and turned over so its solid metal back was face-out in order to protect the dial and crystal. The initial concept was developed for polo players who were constantly breaking their watches during play. The ingenious patented design of the case, and the Art Deco styling made this watch a historic luminary.

Today, Jaeger-LeCoultre offers many variations of the Reverso for both men and women, often equipping it with two different dials, one on each side, for versatility. The design remains one of the best Art Deco watch representations on the market today.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Originally unveiled in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watch was designed by watchmaking legend Gerald Genta. It’s octagonal case design with signature rivets, and the fact that it was the first stainless steel luxury sport watch, made this piece an immediate hit. Today, the Royal Oak may well be one of the most sought-after watches on the market, both second hand and new.

Cartier Tank

Unveiled in 1917, and featuring a rectangular case design inspired by the Renault tanks of World War I, the Cartier Tank continues to woo watch lovers with its bold case shape and classic vintage appeal. Today, the Tank has evolved, and several variations, including the Tank Americaine and the Tank Francaise, draw in watch lovers. The Tank was a favorite of Jacqueline Kennedy, proving it perfect for women and men alike. The Cartier Tank is a must-have for the collector who prides himself on owning classics.

TAG Heuer Monaco

Another watch celebrating the glory days of automobile racing, the TAG Heuer Monaco watch was first unveiled in 1969. It was one of the brand’s first automatic chronographs, designed in a square case. Jack Heuer named the watch in honor of the Monaco Grand Prix racecourse. The watch was a favorite of actor and racecar driver Steve McQueen. Production of the Monaco was halted for a few decades, making early vintage Monaco watches extremely desirable and somewhat rare.

TAG Heuer remains intimately involved in automobile racing and regularly releases new editions of the Monaco, some of which feature colors reminiscent of the great racing days. This watch is a true find on the second-hand market and rounds out any great collection.

IWC Pilot’s Watch

IWC made history in 1936 when it unveiled its first Special Pilot’s watch – the world’s first antimagnetic aviation watch. Several years in the making, the watch featured a soft iron inner case that protected the mechanical movement from the effects of magnetism when in flight. The concept was life-saving for military air force pilots who would sometimes experience errors in timekeeping when on missions. That first pilot’s watch evolved into the legendary Mark 11 watch (supplied to the Royal Air Force) and later into the brand’s famed Flieger chronographs and Big Pilot watches. All evolutions carried the signature DNA of the original pilot watch, including highly legible dials. IWC pilot watches have been used by America’s elite Top Gun fighter pilots and by other military factions around the world.

Panerai Luminor

In the 1930s, Italian watch brand Officine Panerai (which was founded in 1860) established a close relationship with the Royal Italian Navy, supplying them with Italian-designed precision watches and aiming sights for underwater torpedoes. The brand again supplied watches to the Royal Italian Navy during World War II and continued to create watches exclusively for the military until 1993, when it also went direct to the public.

Owned by the Richemont Group since 1997, Panerai creates bold, oversized watches that offer form and ultimate function true to the brand’s DNA. The bold look of the beloved Luminor Submersible watch, with its distinctive crown protector, may well be what struck a chord with watch collector, who started a cult-like following of the brand called Paneristi. Today, the Luminor watches, based on models from the 1940s and 1950s, continue to tug at the heartstrings of its devoted followers, thanks to the iconic sandwich-style two-layer dial and great use of luminescence. If you have a Panerai Luminor watch in your collection, you are viewed as a true insider.

Ever gaze at someone’s watch and see the moon? If so, you are witnessing a small complication in watchmaking that is one of the most beloved on the market: moon phase indications.

What is a Moon Phase Watch Complication?

Essentially, a moon phase complication depicts exactly what it says: it shows the phases of the moon in real time so that at any given point the current phase of the moon in the sky is depicted precisely on the wrist. Depending on the timepiece and its movement complexity, the moon phase indication is accurate to varying lengths of time (including up to thousands of years) and can display constellations and other information, as well as the phases of the moon.

Today’s moon phase watches can be simple or incredibly elaborate, depending on the brand. Additionally, the placement of the moon phase aperture and the shape of the aperture on the dial vary greatly depending on the brand. Some moon phase indications are made using precious stones such as lapis lazuli or glass aventurine. Others feature yellow or white gold moons that are sculpted, and yet others are meticulously hand-painted for visual depth and beauty.

How the Moon Phase Complication Works

While every watch brand has its own way to depict the moon’s waxing and waning, most moon phase complications operate via a small disk within the mechanics of the watch. The disk is typically painted or engraved with two identical moons on it, as well as with the phases of the moon (new moon, first quarter, full moon and last quarter). An open aperture on the dial reveals the correct portion of the moon phase disk that coincides with the night sky. For a simple moon phase watch, a 59-tooth gear that advances by one notch every 24 hours drives the moon disk. This way, the moon on the disk passes through the aperture every 29.5 days.

Generally, the most simple moon phase displays, if worn regularly, show a one-day discrepancy in the alignment of the actual moon phase in the sky and the coordinating moon phase complication in the watch every two and a half years. This is predominantly because the typical moon phase cycle is 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.8 seconds. In simpler moon phase watches, this time is condensed into an average of 29.5 days. Thus, within a few years, the accuracy is affected, and the wearer needs to adjust the moon phase indication. There are more advanced moon phase disks that are built using a 135-tooth wheel in order to achieve accuracy for 122 years.

Accuracy and Elegance

A handful or two of haute horology brands strive to stretch that accuracy to a mind-boggling number of years. The Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna watch from A. Lange & Sohne, for instance, was five years in the making and offers a constantly moving moon phase display that will not need a single day’s correction for 1,058 years. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Duomètre Sphérotourbillon Moon watch is designed to remain accurate for a full 3,887 years thanks to a complex movement system. There is even a watch created by independent watchmaker Andreas Strehler that is said to be accurate for 2 million years.

These examples, though, are not the norm. They are the exception. Most of today’s simple moon phase watches are accurate to a few years, and certain higher-tiered brands offer accuracy for up to 122 years. This year alone, brands such as Cartier, Rolex, Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe, Hermes, Frederique Constant, Raymond Weil and more unveiled beautiful moon phase watches that are accurate for differing periods of time and that showcase the beauty of the moon’s phases in a variety of designs.

After all, for most watch lovers, the accuracy of the moon phase is not the lure. Instead, the sublime beauty, complete with the notions of mystery and romance that the moon conjures, is the true heart grabber.

History and Future of Moon Phase Complications

Since the dawn of time, the moon has governed not just the tides, but also planting and harvesting seasons, and so much more. It has been an inexhaustible symbol of mystery and romance. Even in the early days of clock making centuries ago, master clockmakers found a way to incorporate the phases of the moon into large clocks. This concept later miniaturized and found its way to travel clocks, pocket watches and eventually wristwatches of the 20th century.

Today’s watch brands understand that consumers want something visually alluring on the wrist, and they are making strides to unveil moon phase watches for men and women, and in price ranges across the board. Additionally, many are equipping moon phase watches with other complications such as calendars with the day, date, month, leap year, and even astronomical information such as the equation of time scales (to measure the difference between real and mean solar time), northern and/or southern hemisphere constellations, and more. Some brands are even beginning to create three-dimensional depictions of the moon’s phases that are bold and daring renditions of art, elegance, and technology.

If you are a tennis lover, then this is your season! This past weekend witnessed the opening of the qualifying matches to determine the final line-up for the 132nd edition of the famed Wimbledon Championships, which begin on July 2 and run until July 15. Not long after that, starting in late August, The US Open Tennis Championships take place in New York. Between both of these exciting events, we will witness some of the finest athletes in the world vying for victory.

Many of those tennis greats are also ambassadors for some of the finest watch brands in the world. To wit: Rolex counts eight tennis stars on their brand ambassador roster and is the Official Timekeeper of Wimbledon. So, if you have a favorite tennis player and are wondering what their watch of choice is, here’s a look at seven of the top tennis stars and the luxury watches they sport– on and off the tennis court.

Much like fashion designers, jewelry designers possess an eclectic blend of passion, inspiration and creativity that translates into incredible, wearable works of art. I have had the good fortune of traveling dozens of times to Italy for jewelry exhibitions and to visit some of the finest designer workshops. Here are five of my favorite Italian designers who are renowned for their passion and creativity.

Antonini Milano

With roots dating back to 1919, Antonini Milano is a family run brand that creates jewelry featuring unusual shapes, mixed colored stones, and dynamic architecture. Because the brand specializes in semi-precious stones such as citrine, amethyst, smoky quartz, and others, the fine Italian jewelry is affordable. Founded and still based in Milan, the brand’s creative designer, Sergio Antonini, has an incredible eye for designing pieces that run the gamut from simple and to sublime, from chic to extraordinary. Worn on the red carpet by stars including Anne Hathaway, Taylor Swift, and Carrie Underwood, Antonini’s jewels are easy to wear and look dynamite on. My favorite collection is the Malibu line of colored stone pieces inspired by Malibu Beach’s great sunsets. Another fun favorite (thanks to its whimsical geometric appeal) is the Siracusa line that plays with shapes that crisscross and intersect for a delightful look. This series has won several awards for its creativity and unique expression.

1884 Collection

As its name suggests, the roots of this brand date back six generations and 134 years. Designer Alberto Petochi is a sixth-generation Italian jeweler who is inspired by his heritage to create vintage designs with a modern edge.

The Petochi family opened its first jewelry shop in 1884. The jewelry’s aesthetics and craftsmanship caught the attention of Prince Allessandro Torlonia who invited the family to move into the palace as a jewelry maker to the royal family. Today, Alberto Petochi has recreated the family legacy by designing sophisticated jewelry that incorporates original ancient Roman coins. Petochi does a masterful job of blending modernity into the 1884 Collection with interesting geometric accents and combining the Italian coins with bold titanium cuffs or tubular solid silver bracelets that wrap around the wrist. There are even colored-gemstone necklaces wherein the clasp is a simple accent piece. This contemporary design ethos not only makes an interesting statement, but also offers the wearer an intriguing secret: only she knows that the centerpiece in the trendy-yet-classic jewelry is an original ancient coin.

Picchiotti

Few jewelry designers at the ultra-high-jewelry level are as adept at offering beautiful objects of art as Picchiotti. Because Picchiotti specializes in gemstone jewelry, the brand draws the eye in with pops of bold color and surrounding shimmering diamonds. Growing up in Valenza, Italy, Giuseppe Picchiotti was immersed in the art and architecture of centuries past throughout his childhood, and his exquisite jewelry designs reflect those surroundings. Picchiotti began studying jewelry at the young age of 13. In the late 1970s, at the age of 30, he broke out on his own with his namesake brand. His passion for architecture translated into beautiful treasures that adorn fingers, wrists, necks and ears. He mastered new stone settings until each and every creation he made was perfected to his demanding standards.

Today, the Picchiotti brand continues to work with big stones and a lot of diamonds. One of the more creative and somewhat revolutionary collections by Picchiotti is the Xpandable™ series of rings and bracelets with imperceptible technology that allows the ring size to contract or expand for a more comfortable fit; the ring’s entire shank is comprised of gemstones set into 18 karat gold rows, each of which expands by several millimeters.

Marco Bicego

A relatively young brand, Marco Bicego founded his jewelry company in 2000, following in his father’s footsteps as a jeweler. With every piece of jewelry made in the Veneto region of Italy (near Vicenza and Venice), Marco Bicego does everything in-house, from melting the gold to coiling or engraving it, setting the gemstones and hand polishing each and every piece.

Specializing in gold with added diamonds and colored stones, Marco Bicego offers a host of highly contemporary, easy-to-wear collections. With inspiration coming from different world cultures, Marco Bicego’s jewelry exudes an air of confidence and joy. My favorite collection is his Marrakech series in which fine strands of gold are woven together to create richly textured and flexible jewelry. Often the pieces are accented with diamonds for added sparkle. Alternatively, Marco Bicego’s Africa series of hand-hammered and hand-finished gold orbs, sometimes mixed with diamonds or turquoise, is a delightful modern line with classic appeal.

Roberto Coin

For most, Roberto Coin needs no introduction. His prolific designs make the brand an outstanding choice for gold jewelry, diamonds and colored stones. Coin first began his company in 1977 in Vicenza, Italy, to make jewelry for other companies, but his passion, creativity and talent made him restless. And so, in 1996, he started his own eponymous brand.

Today, Roberto Coin is globally known as a designer extraordinaire, employing many master craftsmen to bring his concepts to life. Any given year Roberto Coin debuts hundreds of new pieces and dozens of new collections. The Italian-born Coin loves to surprise people with his creations, which are made in all hues of gold, diamonds, and gemstones. With a firm stance that jewelry is an art that should evoke an emotional response, Coin has created some of the most wearable and beloved collections.

Among the best-sellers are the Appassionata line of intricately woven, highly feminine gold jewelry (created using a technique that took several years to develop and that makes gold feel like fabric against the body); the Cento, a proprietary 100-facet diamond collection; and the fan-favorite Animalier series of animal-inspired rings, bracelets, and cuffs. From the classic collections to the nuanced pieces that debut annually, all Roberto Coin jewelry carries a signature ruby on the inner side as his stamp of authenticity. With Roberto Coin, there is never a dull moment.

If these Italian designers piqued your interest, learn more about some of Italy’s most well-known jewelry brands, including Bulgari and Buccelatti, in our story here.

Over the past few years, many women have discovered watches as an integral part of their look and have started creating their own watch collections. If you are one of those who has been bitten by the watch collecting bug and are already buying watches but want to boost your collection to rival other women watch lovers, we’ve got a few tips for you.

1. Set your budget.
The very first thing to think about when starting a watch collection is your budget. Obviously, you will be paying more money for watches with small complications, watches with big names (such as a Cartier Ballon Bleu), or watches with more diamonds or gemstones than for a basic timepiece, such as a TAG Heuer, Movado or Baume & Mercier.

2. Diversify your watch style.
Every basic watch collection should consist of four to six essential timepieces, which, if you’re a seasoned collector, you probably already have covered. Those include at least a couple of good everyday work watches; a sporty weekender that reflects your activities or hobbies; and a nice dress watch maybe even with some diamonds.

When you’re ready to graduate into a more serious collector, experts suggest punching up your watch wardrobe with some variety. For instance, if you already have several watches for daytime, such as a three-hand from Omega or a Rolex Datejust, consider adding a bolder, less classic look to your repertoire. (Variety is the spice of life, after all.) A Cartier Roadster is a fun choice or even the Bulgari Serpenti watch, where the coil bracelet of the snake watch wraps around your wrist.

Similarly, if you have several strap watches, explore the concept of adding a colorful watch strap or bracelet watches, with particular attention to two-tones and mesh.

3. Invest in rare and unique women’s watches.
Many watch experts advise collectors to look to certain genres or styles of watches that tend to keep their value over time. These include “panda” and “reverse panda” chronograph dials (black dial, white subdials or the opposite combination); military-inspired watches (like the smaller and divine Rolex Air-King); certain dive watches from the big names like Omega and Rolex. If you are shopping second-hand (which you should be and see below for more) you may even find a nice steel and gold Patek Philippe smaller sized watch, or a great rectangular reversible Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. Additionally, women’s watches with special dials or special gemstone settings are a nice genre to invest in and wear.

Alternatively, some collectors prefer to focus on certain brands that seem to be more likely to appreciate in value. Good brands to invest in include the top names already mentioned, as well as Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Girard-Perregaux.

Don’t be afraid to buy from a newer, smaller, independent watch brand, either, as they tend to be more creative in their products and are starting to hold their own in terms of resale value.

4. Expand your collection and watch knowledge with watch complications.
Generally, when starting a watch collection, most women play it safe and buy simple three-hand watches and date watches. But to really branch out and build a robust collection, add some complications that suit your lifestyle. If you love to jog, invest in a chronograph, such as Audemars Piguet’s women’s Royal Oak Offshore with rubber clad strap, to time those laps. If you are a busy world traveler, look to the dual time zone watches, world timers and GMTs that are functional and easy to use. For instance, Jacob & Co. has some wonderful Five Time Zone watches bedecked in diamonds.

At the high end of the price spectrum, consider a perpetual calendar watch from a brand like Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin. Or go for the gold and invest in a watch with a tourbillon escapement (that compensates for errors in timekeeping due to the effects of gravity on the watch when the wrist is in certain positions). Owning these complications boosts the value of your collection and effectively demonstrates your watch knowledge and passion.

5. Forgo paying full retail and buy second-hand and vintage.
The smartest and easiest way to build a strong collection chocked with variety and complexity is to buy second-hand from a reliable source, like TrueFacet. Look to see if the watch has been inspected and if it comes with a warranty or guarantee. Read the return policies, and, most important, the re-sale policies – because let’s face it: you may want to trade up as you go along.

The key to remember with each and every watch purchase, though, is that personal taste comes first. There is no right or wrong; you choose your own style.

Main image by Lydia Elise Millen.

In 2017, Time Magazine wrote an article about healing crystals, stating, “…the human mind is a powerful thing, and it’s trickier to say flatly that crystals don’t work, if you define ‘work’ as providing some benefit.” What they determined was that yes, crystals can heal, but only if the mind believes they can heal.

With that said, here’s a list of crystals that are believed to have healing powers. If you’re a fan of alternative medicines, consider getting a spiritual rock collection.

Amethyst
Amethyst has a long history as a spiritual healing stone and is referenced in a handful of modern and ancient religions. According to the Egyptian “Book of the Dead,” instructions are given for laying a heart shaped amethyst atop those who have died to help the body peacefully transition into their next life. The Roman Catholic church looks upon amethyst as a gem of purity often associated with the church’s bishops. And Buddhist prayer beads in Tibet are often created using the stone, so clearly there is a deep spirituality when it comes to the purple gem.

In terms of their modern healing powers, amethyst is said to boost inner strength and provide spiritual protection as well.

Citrine
Used extensively as a talisman against evil, overindulgences, treachery, and scandal during the first and second centuries in the Roman empires and throughout Greece, citrine found its place in history even though it wasn’t as popular as its purple sister, amethyst.

The healing powers most associated with the orange-hued gemstone (which some say receives those powers directly from the sun) are prosperity, abundance, opportunity, protection, and weight loss. Known largely as the “Merchant’s Stone,” citrine is also said to help one prosper by removing financial stalemates.

Rose Quartz
The pale pink hue of the rose quartz emits a soothing, calm vibe, emitting harmony, peace, and even love. It is a crystal often used by those who are emotionally troubled, are struggling with mental illness, or are having relationship woes as it is said to lower stress.

Sometimes referred to as the “love crystal” or “heart stone,” the energy of the rose quartz is said to allow the wearer of the stone to open themselves up to all forms of available love including romantic love, self-love, familial love, and platonic love among friends.

Carnelian
Ancient Egyptians wore the gemstone carnelian as a source of constant renewal and vitality, and the stone was even placed in tombs as “magic armor” for the afterlife.

Varying in color from light orange to reddish brown, carnelian is said to be an energy boosting gemstone that helps to keep the wearer motivated, confident, forward-thinking, and inspired. It is also said to alleviate addictions while inducing joy through creativity and sensuality.

Clear Quartz (also known as Rock Crystal)
Known as “The Master Healer,” many believe that rock crystal offers the wearer the power of a divine white light while allowing one to be in touch with one’s higher self. Clear quartz is also said to be a versatile stone because it magnifies the vibrations of the crystals that surround it and is frequently used to cleanse and re-energize other healing crystals.

Another important property of rock crystal is said to be its ability to stimulate the immune system, bringing the body back into a proper state of balance through the enhancement of organs in the body and through the cleansing of the soul. This allows the wearer a solid connection between physical self and the mind.

While crystals aren’t for everyone from a healing standpoint, there’s no denying that any gemstone in any form brings some sort of emotion to the onlooker and/or wearer. If you’re wearing a ring made with a huge amethyst cut into a beautiful shape, chances are that ring is going to make you happy. If you’ve been gifted a pair of rock crystal earrings, you may not go to your local healer to experiment with their properties, but you’ll likely wear them with pride which will give you confidence and make you feel good about yourself and the person who gave them to you, and at the end of the day, maybe that really is the true healing power of gems.

If you’re interested in watches, then you are interested in horology (the art of watchmaking). It’s an odd term, but essentially, horology (horlogerie in French) is the study (or science) of time or watches.

Prefaced by the French term “haute,” haute horology refers to the absolute finest of high watchmaking. But defining haute horology is not so simple. To begin with, not all luxury watches are haute horology watches, nor do watches have to be highly complicated to be considered haute horology. In fact, perhaps the single defining characteristic of haute horology comes in the craftsmanship and finishing of a timepiece.

The term haute horology really only came into existence in the late 1970’s when fine Swiss watchmakers were looking for a term to differentiate their high-end mechanical timepieces from the plethora of quartz watches coming onto the market. Their focus was on demonstrating their watchmaking skills, including artistic merit, mechanical precision, complicated calibers, meticulous finishing, and only the finest quality.

Over the past half a century, the term haute horology continues to evolve, and sometimes has even the finest watch collectors arguing about whether or not a fine watch is a haute horology piece. As such, there has been an ongoing struggle to define haute horology, which has led to the formation of a number certifications, such as the Qualité Fleurier (for watchmakers in the Fleurier region of Switzerland), the Geneva Seal (also known as the Hallmark of Geneva for watch brands in that region), and others, that act as guidelines for fine watchmaking.

Just last year, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), which was founded in 2005 in Switzerland to maintain and preserve the tradition of haute horlogerie, issued the “White Paper.” Much like the fashion industry’s haute couture designation (which has government issued rules surrounding its use), it had become important to establish a set of rules to help define haute horology and identify fine watchmaking brands. The FHH took it upon itself to help define the term, and evaluated more than 80 brands, finally naming 64 that fit the bill, including historic maisons, contemporary brands and independent artisanal creators.

The White Paper on Fine Watchmaking (which, along with the accompanying evaluations, took three years to complete) establishes principles in seven areas of expertise and measures brands across those principles, among them: R&D, design, production, the production of in-house-made movements, movement finishing and decoration, and quality.

So, in the end what defines an Haute Horology brand? A multitude of factors that come together in a brand’s highest watch offerings. Typically more than one of these factors are combined in an haute horology watch and often, several need to be present to demonstrate a brand’s exceptional prowess at the craft of watchmaking.

5 Factors Influencing Whether or Not a Watch is Haute Horology

1. Legacy. The heritage and history of the company and the brand. In the case of younger, emerging independent brands, legacy revolves around the innovative concepts employed by the contemporary brands.

2. In-House Movements. Whether or not, and to what degree, the brand makes its own movements in house, and how complicated those movements are. Typically the finest and most difficult feats in watchmaking are considered haute horlogerie, including astronomical complications (equation of time, precise moon phases, etc.), tourbillons, repeaters and sonneries, perpetual calendars, chronograph rattrapantes, and grand complications, among others.

3. Finishing. Finishing refers to the work that goes into nearly every component inside the watch – whether or not it is visible via a transparent case back. Finishes include angling, perlage, guilloche and so many more — all of which requires dozens of hours of hand craftsmanship. Essentially, no  watch is deemed haute horology without extensive hand finishing.

4. The Art of Fine Watchmaking. Generally, to be haute horology, the brand should use at least one, if not more, of the arts of fine watchmaking– engraving, enameling, gem setting and more.

5. Craftsmanship and Quality. Generally, for a watch to be considered haute horology, it is hand crafted with the utmost attention to every detail inside and out. These watches are  hand-finished and hand-assembled.

One last note about haute horology watches, if you think a fine watch is expensive, an haute horology watch is even more expensive… and well worth the money.