On Wednesday of this week in Milan, Patek Philippe unveiled its newest women’s watch collection, the Twenty-4 Automatic. Backed by a new digital lifestyle campaign and boasting its own new tag line–“Begin your own tradition”–  the collection is designed to engage today’s highly successful female watch lovers.

The now-iconic Twenty-4 has existed since 1999, when it was first introduced to the world as a rectangular watch with quartz movement, and as the brand’s first steel with diamonds timepiece. The manchette shape with softened corners stole hearts immediately, and the collection has continued year after year with new renditions being released.

The new Twenty-4 Automatic line, however, was five years in the making and is a dramatic departure from the original older sibling in several ways – all designed to attract the self-assured cosmopolitan woman.

1. The Patek Philippe Twenty-4 Automatic offers a shape with curves and versatility.
The immediate difference in the new Twenty-4 Automatic watch is the fact that it is no longer a rectangle. It is a curvaceous 36mm round watch. Patek Philippe knows that curves matter when it comes to creating a feminine timepiece, and having a round watch offers today’s women ease of wear.

Additionally, the round shaped deftly toes from day to night, yielding greater wearability. Crafted in both polished stainless steel and in 18-karat rose gold (all with diamond bezels), the watches feature matching link bracelets and a newly created patented clasp. The dials are very modern, with a choice of a linen motif in silver, rich blue, chocolate brown and slate gray/black.

2. The Patek Philippe Twenty-4 Automatic took 5 years to build and houses intricate mechanics.
The second big difference between the original Twenty-4 and the Automatic is self-evident in the name. The new watch sheds the quartz movement in favor of a self-winding mechanical caliber: the in-house-made 324S C with silicium technology. In this timepiece, Patek Philippe is acknowledging that today’s women are more sophisticated and interested in the mechanics of a watch. By offering a mechanical movement that is also a highly precise powerhouse for the brand (the movement is used in other watches including the Nautilus and Aquanaut), Patek Philippe hopes to attract savvy female watch lovers.

3. Through its new campaign, Patek Philippe is leaning in to a new demographic and type of collector.
Easily one of the most intriguing aspects of the new Twenty-4 Automatic is the all-new tag line: “Begin your own tradition.” With this philosophy, Patek Philippe is empowering women to make their own story and have their own meaningful relationship with the Twenty-4 Automatic. While the brand’s well-known campaign, “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation,” has been impressing collectors for decades, this new tag line lets women imagine their own plans for the watch and for life.

Being powered by a mechanical movement, and featuring two rows of Top Wesselton diamonds on the bezel, these new Patek Philippe Twenty-4 Automatic watches range from about $26,000 to $56,000, but they definitely make owning a Patek Philippe Twenty-4 watch of either style (manchette or round) highly stylish.

Known for its exceptional watchmaking, Patek Philippe is what many watch collectors consider the “Holy Grail brand.” It is one of the most sought-after watch brands in the world with a host of collections that showcase its technical innovation and elegant aesthetics. Easily one of Patek Philippe’s most coveted collections is the well-known Calatrava, which has been stealing hearts for decades. Here we take a brief look at the origins of this iconic timepiece.

The Design Inspiration of the Patek Philippe Calatrava
The very first Patek Philippe Calatrava watch was created in 1932, when pocket watches still abounded and wristwatches were just coming into the limelight.

The creator of the first Calatrava watch, David Penney, was enamored with the Bauhaus style of industrial and interior design. The Bauhaus movement started in Germany in 1919 and emphasized holistic approach to design that brought together technology, aesthetics, and premier craftsmanship. Penney felt that simple, understated timepieces would be both elegant and timeless. As such, he designed the first Calatrava, Reference 96, in gold, with a clean ivory dial that featured applied gold markers and a tiny subsidiary seconds dial at 6:00.

That first “form follows function” Calatrava was a small 31mm round watch that measured 9mm thick and featured integrated lugs on the three-part case. The lugs tapered in such a way that made them very comfortable on the wrist. At that point in time, Patek Philippe did not make its own movements, so this watch was powered by a Jaeger-LeCoultre mechanical caliber. (Two years later, in 1934, the brand created its own in-house caliber 12”’120 and that mechanical movement equipped the Calatrava watches of the time.)

Brothers Jean and Charles Henri Stern, whose family owned a dial manufacturing company in Switzerland, had just purchased the Patek Philippe brand from the previous owners and were looking for a new watch model that would complement all of the complicated timepieces. When they saw Penney’s crisp design, they knew it would be the prefect embodiment of their standards of quality craftsmanship and innovative style.

They named the new timepiece Calatrava, referencing the symbol of the 12th century Calatrava Knights of Spain and Portugal. (Coincidentally, Patek Philippe had already registered the Calatrava cross design as its trademark, 45 years earlier, in 1887. The brand had just never used the name or the symbol for one of its collections until this new timepiece was born.)

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Collection and Variations
The original Calatrava Reference 96 was produced for more than 40 years, with a host of notable renditions, including a larger 35.5mm version (Ref. 570) in 1938. The Reference 570 watch, with coin-edged bezel, became the basis for fresh iterations, including a three-hands model with a central seconds hand instead of a seconds subsidiary dial; a two-hand version with an enamel dial and Breguet-applied numerals (still very much sought after on the secondary market); and a sector-dial version.

In 1953, Patek Philippe unveiled its first-ever automatic Calatrava, Ref. 2526, in a 36mm case with enamel dials and a round bezel. Fewer than 600 of these were made and they are still very much in demand by collectors today.

In 1973, Patek Philippe unveiled what modern collectors consider the signature Calatrava: The Ref. 3520 features a stunning bezel with Clous de Paris guilloche, or hobnail as it is called today, combined with straight, polished lugs.

Easily one of the more beloved pieces is the Officer’s Style Calatrava with straight lugs and a hinged dust cover protecting the transparent case back that was unveiled in 1989. That Officer’s Style may have been the design impetus for the Reference 5524G pilot’s watch that was unveiled in Baselworld 2015. That watch featured Patek Philippe’s patented Travel Time mechanism and the brand unveiled a new version with different dial color this year.

Today, Patek Philippe has a healthy number of Calatrava references in its line up, and it remains one of the most celebrated collections in all of watchmaking. Considered an icon in history, the Calatrava– new or vintage—is a must-have in any watch lover’s wardrobe. It is a versatile timepiece that goes from business to evening to casual weekend wear, all the while making an understated yet magnetic statement.

Today’s young watch collector is not terribly different from his older colleagues; his needs just seem to be a little more specific. He wants a watch with good looks and maybe a strong name behind it. Today’s stylish guy also wants a story: he wants to understand the brand’s position, and know that the brand is totally transparent. Simple, clean designs and vintage looks trump ultra-complicated watches that Baby Boomers and Gen Xers may love. Additionally, the modern watch collector may be interested in a watch that can be personalized by adding a NATO strap, an engraving, or some other feature. While today’s active young men love functions like chronographs, calendars, dual timers, and more, they still want simplicity in design and ultra ease of use. Here we take a look at 10 luxury watches that are perfect for the modern man.

Drive De Cartier 


The Drive de Cartier collection, inspired by the world of automobiles, is a great choice for someone looking for the sporty yet elegant watch. The cushion-shaped case has a true vintage appeal, especially when paired with either a white or black dial with Roman numerals. Clean, bold, and alluring, a Drive De Cartier watch is the watch of choice for basketball player Chris Paul, chef Dominique Ansel, and Taiwanese actor Chang Chen.

Rolex Sky-Dweller

You just can’t shy away from the Rolex marquee, but you can be a bit more selective than a Datejust. The Sky-Dweller offers top-tier sophistication thanks to the 42mm watch’s distinctive technological advancements. Outfitted with approximately a dozen patented parts (depending on the model), the watch offers time around the world at a glance thanks to an inner 24-hour ring on the dial. It is also versatile and offered in a choice of Oystersteel, Oystersteel-and-gold, yellow gold, and the brand’s sumptuous Everose gold.

Monsieur De Chanel

Yes, that’s right. I said Chanel for men. That’s because the luxury brand has made great strides in creating a classic and elegant men’s collection. The Monsieur watch features a retrograde minute hand in arc formation on the dial, a jump hour indicator at 6:00, and a small seconds sub-dial above the jump hour. It has an intriguing look and a different way of indicating time, which is likely going to be a great conversation starter.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer

For those who love the water and a good-looking sports watch at a nice price, look no further than the TAG Heuer Aquaracer. The brand has updated the automatic timepiece and offers the ability to personalize it with different fabric, rubber, and leather straps. It also is created in sandblasted titanium, stainless steel, black PVD, or even ceramic for an edgier look.

Omega Speedmaster

One of the largest and most storied collections in watch history, Omega’s Speedmaster series is chock full of both sporty and urban-chic watches that are bound to make you drool a little. The Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon, and subsequent versions, has stolen hearts with its reference to Omega’s role in NASA’s Apollo space missions. Similarly, the Skywalker, Racing, and Speedmaster 57 watches all turn heads. Our favorite though, is the original Speedmaster Moonwatch Co-Axial Chronograph.

Patek Philippe Nautilus

The ultimate sporty elegant vintage look comes in the form of the Patek Philippe Nautilus watch with porthole-shaped case and octagonal bezel. First unveiled to the world nearly half a century ago, in 1976, the Nautilus is also distinguished by its embossed dial with either wave pattern or horizontal lines. If you can’t find the right Nautilus, you can also opt for its sibling (design inspired by Nautilus), the Aquanaut. Let’s face it; Patek Philippe is a must-have luxury watch for those looking for a subdued yet sporty statement.

Bulgari Octo

Toss out the idea that Bulgari is a women’s watch and jewelry brand. This Italian-born brand makes some of the finest Swiss watches in the world. However, the most appealing to today’s generation is most likely a watch from the Octo collection. Featuring a round bezel against a square case with angular cushioned corners, the Octo is a study in geometry. The Octo line is comprised of the Octo Finissimo, thinner watches, and the Octo Roma and Solotempo lines. You can’t go wrong with any Bulgari Octo watch.

Zenith El Primero

With Swiss watch brand Zenith making great strides in innovation with its Defy and other collections, it is definitely worth taking a closer look at – especially the legendary Zenith El Primero collection. This brand is known for the incredible precision of its El Primero mechanical movement, which first made its debut in 1969, and has held iconic status ever since. Still one of the most precise chronograph movements in the world, the El Primero caliber is housed in the brand’s El Primero collection of watches, as well as in others, and is regularly updated and improved with new materials and features. If you only want to own one chronograph, this is the one to have.

Tudor Heritage

Whether you opt for the Tudor Heritage Advisor, Chrono, or Ranger, the Heritage watches by Tudor, Rolex’s sibling, offer a deft blend of contemporary cool, vintage appeal, clean design, and useful functionality. The Heritage Advisor, for instance, offers a day and date indicator and applied markers. The best thing about this mechanical watch, inspired by the brand’s 1957 original, is its alarm feature (with power reserve indication of the alarm also on the dial).

Nomos Glashütte Metro

Did this one catch you by surprise? This German-made brand is garnering great popularity among today’s young collectors thanks to its minimalist look with colorful accents. While the Tangente collection with vintage dials is kicking up a stir, and the square Tetra watches are making a splash, it is the Metro collection that seems to be stealing the hearts of today’s young men. Sophisticated yet contemporary, the Metro offers a power reserve indicator and date but in such a simple, clean manner that you almost don’t know those added features are there. While some may not consider Nomos a true luxury line because of its attainable price, it is definitely making its mark on today’s generation.

Choosing the metal for your engagement ring is a big deal; after all, you will be wearing the ring for the rest of your life, so it needs to be able to withstand all that wear and tear. There are some important considerations to keep in mind before you make the final decision, including the price, appearance, and how the metal will look with the gemstone. Generally, it’s best to avoid metals like silver, which tarnishes over time and scratches easily. Here are five metals that are great choices for your engagement ring:

Yellow Gold: The Classic Choice

Yellow gold was once the most popular engagement ring metal, though in the past few decades white gold has gained prominence as the most sought after material. Still, yellow gold can be a great choice. If your ring is more of a traditional, dainty solitaire than a complex modern ring, yellow gold can work well. Yellow gold is also a great match for a colorless diamond and helps emphasize the brilliant sparkle of the stone.

Rose Gold: Perfect for a Vintage Look

First popularized in 19th century Russia, rose gold jewelry was very common in the Victorian era and holds a vintage appeal. That being said, rose gold has made a comeback in recent years and more and more people are choosing the unique metal for their engagement ring. If you want your engagement ring to look extra romantic, rose gold is a great choice (especially paired with a deep red ruby!).

White Gold: A Chic and Modern Metal

The majority of engagement rings purchased today are made of white gold, and for good reason. This versatile and timeless metal just happens to look great with diamonds and most other gemstones. If you’re going for a blue sapphire engagement ring or another cool colored stone, it’s almost always better to go for a light colored metal.

Platinum: Durable and Luxurious

Platinum is sought after for its durability, beauty, and rarity. If you want to make sure your engagement ring says luxury and elegance, go with platinum. It’s hypoallergenic as well, so it’s the perfect metal for people who might have allergies to certain materials. For all these benefits, expect to pay more for your platinum ring than you would for one in white gold.

Palladium: Platinum’s Lighter Cousin

Palladium is similar to platinum in most ways, but because it’s less dense, it feels a lot lighter. This less common metal is usually blended with gold to form white gold, but it’s a great choice on its own as well. Like platinum, it usually makes for a more expensive engagement ring.

White gold, platinum and palladium are ideal if you want that sleek and modern look. If you’re looking for a trendy ring that has a vintage vibe at the same time, rose gold is your go-to choice. Finally, yellow gold is great if you want a more traditional engagement ring.

In terms of gold, 18k vs 14k is another question to consider. As gold is too soft at 24k, pure gold is mixed with alloys to make the final composition. 18k is more expensive and has a richer yellow composition, but it’s also softer. 14k, on other hand, is more affordable and more durable.

It’s always best to consider your gem(s) and accompanying wedding band when making the choice for your engagement ring metal. While yellow gold looks best mainly with diamonds, rose gold tends to complement warm colored gems as well, and white gold and platinum are widely versatile in terms of gem choice. Take your time to explore all your options and find the best metal for your dream engagement ring.

To read more about fine jewelry and custom engagement rings from CadCamNYC, visit their site CadCamNYC.com.

Rose gold jewelry is unique in that it’s both trendy and also has a vintage appeal. Yellow gold is no longer the center of attention, particularly when it comes to engagement rings. While white gold and platinum are the go-to metals for a classy, modern look, rose gold fills a special niche and is the best choice if you want to wear chic and trendsetting jewelry.

But there’s one problem: How do you know which gemstones look best with rose gold jewelry? When it comes to white or yellow gold, most jewelry lovers seem to have an intuitive sense of which gems look best. Rose gold, on the other hand, is a bit more tricky. Here are 5 gemstone variations that will look amazing on your luxury jewelry or engagement ring:

Pink Sapphire

Pink sapphires add an incredible look to rose gold that’s both subtle and captivating. Really, rose gold looks great with most pink tinted gems, but the beauty and clarity of a pink sapphire centerstone is unsurpassed. Pink sapphire gems also look great as an accent to the main stone, particularly in a lighter shade. While pink diamonds are another great choice with similar qualities, they tend to be an exceptionally rare find.

Ruby

A ruby complements a rose gold ring like no other. The power of the ruby’s bold red is tempered by the gentle rose color, so these two work together to create a harmonious combination. There’s something about this pair that evokes both luxury and modesty, so it definitely creates a pleasing look. If you want to make this combo more modern and eye-catching, add some complementary sparkling diamonds to your ring’s halo or shank; it will help bring out the lovely color of your ruby even more!

Red Garnet

Although not as intense as a ruby, a garnet’s deep red tone looks great in a rose gold ring. The two colors blend together for a more understated and gentle look. If you want a beautiful combo that’s soft on the eyes, these two make a wonderful pair.

Amethyst

If you want to move towards the cooler end of the spectrum, amethyst and rose gold are a stunning match. The colors pink and purple usually work well together, so it’s no wonder that this combination shines. Since rose gold already has vintage appeal, adding an amethyst takes this to another level and gives your ring or bangle an almost fairy-tale quality to its beauty.

Aquamarine

Although rose gold tends to look best with warmer gems in pinks and reds, there’s something to be said about matching rose gold with aquamarine. This gem comes in a beautiful gentle blue color; unlike a stone like blue sapphire, aquamarine doesn’t present a strong contrast to rose gold and actually harmonizes well with the metal. The natural, oceanic quality of this blue gem is sure to give your ring or pendant a charming and calming look.

These 5 gemstones make a great pair with rose gold, and offer a unique choice for your next jewelry purchase. If you’re looking for something that’s both eye-catching and calming, amethyst and aquamarine are your best bet, while if you’re going for a more luxury appeal, garnet, ruby and pink sapphires are sure to turn heads. The subtle harmony between rose gold and any of these gems is perfect for a trendy yet vintage-inspired look.

To read more about fine jewelry and custom engagement rings from CadCamNYC, visit their site CadCamNYC.com.

Would James Bond be able to properly play his 007 role without gadgets, gizmos, and the perfect watch? Probably not. In fact, watches often play leading roles that help define the characters in some of the most-loved movies of all time. Here we take a look at 10 watches worn by iconic movie characters and stars.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

When Paul Newman was filming the 1969 race car film, Winning, he was gifted a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona watch by his wife Joanne Woodward. It had the words “Drive carefully — Me” engraved on the case back and Newman wore it faithfully for 15 years. Newman created a craze among watch collectors who had to have the “Paul Newman” Rolex. His original watch was auctioned last year for more than $17.752 million.

Rolex GMT Master

The Rolex GMT Master watch has had some grand (if not dubious) roles on the big screen. In the famed 1979 movie, Apocalypse Now, Marlon Brando (who played Colonel Kurtz, the rogue solider turned cult leader during the Vietnam War) wore a Rolex GMT Master. He wore a steel version with a leather strap but without the rotating bezel. Interestingly enough, this was the same watch of choice by Dennis Hopper in the 1994 movie Speed. Hopper wore the Rolex GMT with metal bracelet and a blue and red “Pepsi” bezel.

TAG Heuer Monaco

The original King of Cool, Steve McQueen, wore a Swiss Heuer Monaco watch in the 1970 movie, Le Mans. (Back then, the brand was simply Heuer, not yet TAG Heuer). McQueen’s watch featured a squared blue dial. That watch sold for approximately $800,000 at auction in 2012. The rebel racer and beloved actor also wore a Heuer crest on his racing suit in the movie.

Omega Seamaster

James Bond (aka 007) has had a long relationship with Omega, ever since Pierce Brosnan wore one in GoldenEye (1995). The brand also worked with Daniel Craig, the current Bond actor, for its newest campaign featuring the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M collection. The newest evolution of the Seamaster Diver 300M has been revamped, with a new helium escape valve and materials that make it anti-magnetic up to 15,000 gauss—which is hopefully enough for Bond.

Omega Speedmaster

The Omega Speedmaster watch was the only mechanical watch certified by NASA for space flight in the Apollo missions in 1965. For the ill-fated Apollo 13 mission, it was an Omega watch that helped the astronauts time their re-entry to Earth’s atmosphere inside the small capsule. In the film adaptation, Apollo 13, the actors all wore the Omega Speedmaster to accurately portray the historic event.

Hamilton Ventura


The triangular-shaped Hamilton Ventura watch has played a starring role in a host of movies, not the least of which was worn on the wrist of Elvis Presley in the famed movie Blue Hawaii. Elvis loved the Ventura and owned and wore it off the set as well as on the set. Years later, Will Smith wore a Ventura in the Men in Black (1997) movie.

Hamilton Khaki

Both the Khaki Field and the Khaki Pilot watches have seen the big screen multiple times. Actor John Krasinski, playing author Tom Clancy’s character Jack Ryan, wears the Khaki Field Auto Chrono in stealth black in the movie and series. Similarly, Matt Damon wore a Khaki Navy Belowzero watch in The Martian and Matthew McConaughey wore a Khaki Pilot Day Date in Intersteller.

Hamilton Jazzmaster

In The Commuter, released this year, Liam Neeson wears a Hamilton Jazzmaster watch. In fact, Hamilton has had along association with Hollywood, dating back to the 1950s when it had a starring role in the movie Frog Men. Since then it has been seen in more than 450 movies. For 2001: A Space Odyssey, the brand designed a special timepiece and table clock.

Urwerk UR -110 RG

Robert Downey Jr. specifically requested that Urwerk grace his wrist in his role as Tony Stark/Ironman in Spider-Man Homecoming. The 18-karat watch later sold at auction for a cool $150,000, with proceeds going to charity. In the movie, Robert Downey Jr.’s character used the watch as one of Ironman’s gadgets; in turn, Downey Jr. asked that the watch be made in the colors of Iron Man, black titanium and 18-karat rose gold with yellow numerals.

Bremont U-2/51-Jet

This stealth black military watch has a starring role in the forthcoming movie, Venom. Tom Hardy as Eddie Brock (the “host” of choice for Venom) wears this fairly affordable watch. The Bremont U-2/51 Jet was inspired by the British brand’s involvement with the Royal Air Force (RAF). Some of the design cues come from the watches made for the RAF’s 100 Squadron.

A “quartz” watch is one that is powered by a quartz movement, complete with electronic circuit board, synthetic quartz crystal and battery, as opposed to mechanical moving gears, wheels and other parts. Many countries today produce quartz movements, including Switzerland. Here we take a look at what a Swiss quartz movement is.

All quartz watches basically relay power similarly, with a button-style cell battery that charges (or relays an electrical current) to a synthetic quartz crystal oscillator. Most quartz movements, whose second hands move in individual “ticks,” beat at a frequency of 32,768 oscillations per second, although today there are also very high precision (VHP) calibers on the market that vibrate at even faster oscillations per minute. The vibrating crystal drives a motor that moves the hands at a constant rate and powers any additional functions such as dual time or a chronograph. Generally, quartz watches are highly desirable for their precision and accuracy and because they run constantly (until the battery dies) and don’t need to be regularly set. Today’s quartz watches typically house batteries with two- to five-year life spans.

History of the Swiss Quartz Watch
Throughout the 1970s, Swiss mechanical industry lost major market share to the newfangled quartz technology and, more specifically, to the Japanese watch brand Seiko. Quartz watches more attractive to the mass market: they were easy to use and, unlike traditional mechanical watches, didn’t require winding or servicing. The Swiss watch industry, which had been built on hand-craftsmanship and keen mechanics, lagged in embracing the quartz concept and did not pursue the serial production of quartz watches with the same fervor as the Japanese and American watch companies.

In 1977, as sales of quartz watches soared, sales of mechanical Swiss watches plummeted. The Swiss watch industry was in dire straights, and, by 1978, were in the throes of what is today referred to as the Quartz Crisis. Traditional Swiss watch brands began going out of business, and, over the ensuing half a dozen years, the Swiss lost a host of long-standing mechanical watch brands.

Finally, under the direction of Nicholas G. Hayek, Sr., who was brought in to revamp and hopefully save the Swiss watch industry, the ETA SA movement company was formed to focus on quartz production. However, the truly big break for the Swiss watch industry came in 1983 when ETA developed an incredibly inexpensive Swiss quartz movement that was housed in a plastic watch, called Swatch, which sold for $35. The watch not only took the world by surprise, but also led the charge for the Swiss industry to regain its foothold. Within two years, Swiss watch sales were on the upswing and most Swiss brands were offering quartz watches, alongside their mechanical pieces.

Swiss Quartz Movements vs. Japanese Quartz Movements
Today, the Swiss have a relatively healthy quartz watch business, with many brands crating watches powered by Swiss Quartz movements. In broad terms, the only real differentiation between a Swiss Quartz movement and a Japanese (or German, French, Asian, Russian or other country’s quartz movements) quartz movement is the country of origin.

Much like the requirements most countries have in place in order to designate their products as officially “Made In” that country, the Swiss have definitive requirements about what constitutes a Swiss-made watch and a Swiss movement.

To be deemed a Swiss movement, the entire caliber must be assembled in a Swiss-based factory and must be inspected in Switzerland. Additionally, the Swiss manufactured components must account for at least 60% of the total value before assembly. There are a variety of “stamps” that flag a watch as having a Swiss movement, including Swiss quartz, Swiss Movement (MVMT) or Swiss.

Today, certain top watchmaking brands build their own Swiss quartz movements to meet their brand’s strict quality standards. Additionally, there are host of Swiss quartz movement manufacturers, such as ETA and Ronda, among others, that sell quartz movements to individual brands.

To learn more about the difference between quartz and mechanical watches, particularly as it comes to caring for each, check out our post on the topic here.

Two of the most beloved collections from Audemars Piguet are the Royal Oak and the Royal Oak Offshore. Sometimes, though, it can be difficult to distinguish one from the other. Here we take a look at the key differences between these two sought-after series.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak collection, which has become an icon in watchmaking history, was the brainchild of Gerald Genta, who conceived of the first stainless steel luxury sport watch, complete with a hexagonal bezel and exposed screws, in 1972. Similarly, the Royal Oak Offshore collection, introduced in 1993 to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the original Royal Oak, bears the same distinguished hexagonal shape, exposed screws, and integrated bracelet. While the differences between the two collections may seem subtle, a closer inspection offers a telltale story.

Size
Overall, the Royal Oak Offshore is noticeably larger than the Royal Oak; the Offshore case is 42mm in diameter, 1 mm bigger than the original 41mm Royal Oak. The case thickness of the Offshore is also larger, at 14.90mm thick vs. the Royal Oak’s 10.88mm thickness, to allow extra room for the Offshore’s added rubber gasket lining between the bezel and the case. The size difference between the two makes the profile of the Offshore more robust and sportier than that of the somewhat more classic, understated Royal Oak.

Dial Pattern
Easily one of the biggest differences (but still difficult to ascertain at a glance) between the Royal Oak and the Offshore is the size of the squares that make up the “tapisserie” pattern on the dials. The tapisserie pattern on the Royal Oak is known as the Grande Tapisserie but, despite its impressive sounding name, are, in fact, smaller than the Offshore’s Mega Tapisserie pattern. (It should be noted that on vintage Royal Oaks from the 1980s and 90s, the original pattern featured squares that are much smaller and tighter than modern Royal Oaks and are sometimes referred to by collectors as Petite Tapisserie patterns.)

Buckles and Clasps
On both the Royal Oak and Offshore watches, the strap is integrated into the design and tapers, thinning out as it moves from the watch case, along the bracelet links, to the clasp. However, the clasp differs. The Royal Oak watches are presented with an Audemars Piguet folding clasp, while the Offshore watches are offered with the more secure traditional pin buckle.

Chronograph Differences
Because the Royal Oak and Offshore chronographs each utilize different movements, the watch’s inner-workings manifest themselves in differences across the Royal Oak and the Offshore’s design, namely the positioning of the chronograph counters.

On the Royal Oak Chronograph, the three subsidiary dials are located at 3:00, 6:00 and 9:00 on the dial. On the Offshore Chronograph, the subdials are located at 6:00, 9:00 and 12:00. However, on smaller (think 37mm) Offshore Chronographs, and on those with added functions, this subdial configuration changes.

Similarly, the date location on each is different: the date on the Royal Oak Chronograph is located between 4:00 and 5:00. On the Offshore Chronograph, the date is at 3:00.

Also, on the Royal Oak Chronograph, the pushers stand out from the case, but on the Offshore Chronograph, the pushers feature pushpiece guards. The Offshore Chronograph also offers several added design features, including an inner tachymeter bezel on the dial, and a transparent sapphire caseback.

Deciding between a Royal Oak and a Royal Oak Offshore watch is a matter of personal preference. Some prefer the more classic look and lower profile of the Royal Oak, while others like the more in-your-face bold look of the Royal Oak Offshore. Either one is a sure-bet winner.