The first big watch exhibition of the year, Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) 2019, just took place in Geneva and it was a highly revealing show. Here we take a look at five of the top trends making their way to wrists around the world later this year.

Complex Complications
While complicated watches may have taken a bit of a backseat this past year or two as many brands were focusing on introducing new collections that are more retail-price friendly, top horological brands are unveiling new complex calibers.

Standouts at the show include Vacheron Constantin’s Twin Beat watch with patents pending and offering the first-ever user-controlled dual frequency system that could endow the watch with more than two months of power reserve.

Armin Strom’s new Dual Time Resonance watch takes high-precision mechanics to new heights as well with its patented resonance clutch spring.

A. Lange & Sohne doesn’t disappoint, either, as this year the German watch brand unveils the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds with midnight black dial and red accents.

Even Hermès surprises us with a unique patented module that enables the viewing of two huge moon phases (as seen from the northern and southern hemispheres) that are stationary on the dial, while the time subdials rotate. These complicated watches are for those who want to wear their success on the wrist.

Vintage Design Flourishes
Vintage inspirations abound this year as so many brands look to their archives for ideas and concepts. These inspirations include retro accents from the mid-20th century such as beige or tan numerals, Arabic rather than Roman numerals, minute tracks and a cleaner dial.

Additionally, the best vintage watches feature dials of incredibly rich colors that are reminiscent of the 1950s, including salmon, silver, and white with blue accents. Montblanc may have the best example with the salmon-colored dial of the Pulsograph watch. Watch collectors with a nostalgic attitude will particularly love the vintage look.

Unconventional Watch Case Shapes
Move over round watches and make way for some intriguing new watch shapes. This year we witnessed the unveiling of intriguing new shapes including elongated ovals, horizontal ovals, tonneau (barrel-shapes), square, and rectangular watches, among others.

Even brands that have never created anything but a round watch (such as Laurent Ferrier) released differently shaped cases this year. These cases are designed for the confident individual who wants to stand out in a crowd.

Vivid Blue Dials
While blue has always been a beloved watch dial color, this year many brands take the hue to new heights. For the first time we are witnessing the emergence of unique shades of blue achieved via guilloche and lacquer, enamel, or proprietary galvanic processes. Today’s vast range of blues—from green-blue to rich royal blue—offers a more alluring look than the next with a romantic and even regal appeal.

Ground-Breaking New Materials
Today’s watchmakers continue the search for new and different materials, offering up surprises in dials and cases. In some instances, brands using proprietary and original alloys, most of which have a carbon component. Among the new materials are Panerai’s high-tech Carbotech (compressed carbon fibers) as seen in the Submersible BMG-Tech whose case is made out of bulk metallic glass. The brand also offers watches made with Eco-Titanium, which is recycled titanium.

Ulysse Nardin unveils its Freak X watch made of Carbonium, a material from the aeronautics industry not yet used in watchcases, and IWC unveils its own ceramic and titanium alloy called Ceratanium. These innovative materials are designed to offer a compelling alternative to the well-known metals and are geared for the adventurous collector or watch lover.

Zenith watches, founded in Switzerland in 1865, is famous for a number of firsts, including building the world’s first integrated automatic chronograph movement, the El Primero, in 1969. This caliber remains the most precise series-made movement to date thanks to its high frequency balance that beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour.

Today, Zenith (owned by the LVHM luxury group) continues to build the El Primero and Elite calibers for its own various timepieces and for other brands in the watch industry at large. Additionally, the brand continues to innovate with its watches, and while the recently released Defy collection is impressing seasoned collectors, the brand offers a host of other lines perfect for the budding collector that are sometimes half the price of the Defy.

Here we take a look at three Zenith collections that represent the brand’s opening price points and offer budding collectors with a great Zenith starter watch.

Zenith Pilot Watches
The most beloved watch in Zenith’s pilot series– inspired by the aviation watches of the 1950s and the dashboard instruments that Zenith supplied to the military – is the Type 20 Chronograph. These watches have true vintage appeal, thanks to the oversized onion-like crown and the 45mm case size diameter. Clean and easy-to-read dials are a signature of this series, with large luminescent Arabic numerals and filled hands. These watches are powered by the El Primero 460 automatic caliber with 50 hours of power reserve and are offered in a variety of case metals, dial, and strap color choices, including military green, blue, and burgundy. A great choice for a vintage pilot look, these watches tend to retail for just about $6,700 to $7,100 new.

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Zenith Elite
Considered a great entry-level price for new collectors, the Zenith Elite line consists of the Elite Classic watch and the Elite Chronograph Classic. The Elite Classic is a three-hand watch that is 39mm in diameter and houses an Elite 679 automatic movement. Zenith first unveiled the Elite thin movement back in 1994 and continues to produce a host of Elite calibers. The three-hand Zenith Elite Classic watch retails for about $4,700 new and is a study in chic refinement.

Clean and sophisticated in design for a chronograph, the Elite Chronograph Classic houses the automatic high-frequency 254-part El Primero 4069 caliber. It offers a two-counter column-wheel chronograph and central seconds. The watches measure 42mm in diameter (perfect for any wrist size) and are water resistant to 50 meters. The Elite Chronograph Classic is a bit pricier than the Elite Classic, starting at just over $7,000 new for steel.

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Zenith Chronomaster El Primero
The Chronomaster line of watches includes a 38mm simple chronograph and range to a 42mm three-counter chronograph with a much more elaborate dial. The Chronomaster El Primero watches are offered in steel and are water resistant to 100 meters. The 38mm versions house the El Primero Caliber 400 with 278 parts in the movement and 31 jewels. The case is the original 1969 case style. These watches retail for about $7,100. The larger 42mm size with tachymeter scale on the inner bezel ring houses the 326-part El Primero Caliber 400B. With a central chronograph hand and a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock on the dial, the watch also offers date indication at 6 o’clock, as well as a small seconds counter at 9 o’clock. This model is often the one turned to by the brand for its partnerships with cars and has colorful blue and red accents on the dial. It retails slightly less than the other Chronomaster El Primero versions at $6,700 new.

These watches are great when new, but finding them second-hand and in like-new condition is even better because as your watch collection grows, you’ll may want to trade up your Zenith watch to an even more impressive model!

 

Main image via Zenith.

Family owned since 1976, Raymond Weil Swiss-made watches are catered for today’s lifestyles. They offer the perfect blend of fashion and function, with a few nice accents thrown in. Here we take a look at five great Raymond Weil watch collections for women.

Freelancer

This is the ideal watch for today’s active lifestyles. A little sporty in nature, but still chic, the Raymond Weil Freelancer is offered in stainless steel cases in a variety of sizes with a nice stainless steel bracelet that is perfect for active and relaxed wear. The links on the bracelet are five-row, with larger outer links on both sides and smaller center links for depth and contrast. Looking for a dressier feel, try a version with diamond markers or a mother-of-pearl dial. For urban chic appeal, go for a dial in salmon or black, or for a two-toned steel and gold look.

Parsifal

This collection was first unveiled to the world in 1991 and was re-imagined just this year for a fresh, updated appeal. Powered by a Swiss quartz movement, Raymond Weil Parsifal watches are smaller in size (generally 30 mm) and are crafted in stainless steel. With an integrated bracelet, this watch is a classic, sophisticated timepiece that goes from work to weekend. Dials include white and mother of pearl, with either Roman numerals or diamond markers mixed with Roman numerals. Certain models, with date indication, have accents such as diamond markers and yellow gold (yes, yellow gold is making a comeback) bezels.

Noemia

Available in a host of sizes ranging from a petite 24mm to a generous 36mm, the Raymond Weil Noemia is a great contemporary timepiece that features a round dial, but an elongated case that is almost oval with curved horns that beautifully integrate with the thin three-row bracelet. This watch features a sleek case design and exudes a feminine and curvaceous appeal. There are a variety of options including ones with pale pink dials, sky blue dials, and diamond accents on the dial and even on the case.

Shine Etoile

This round watch is incredibly versatile, thanks to the interchangeable strap and bracelet system. Each watch is sold with at least one strap and one bracelet, but some versions have three strap options. Shine models are two-tone and steel and are offered with or without diamonds on the bezel and hour makers. This is the timepiece for today’s woman who likes style and sophistication.

Tango

Recalling the famed dance that sets the night on fire, the Tango watches from Raymond Weil embrace the concept of luxury and fashion with rhythm and beauty. These round watches feature bold bezels (sometimes with diamonds) and offer a classic yet sporty appeal. The two-tone versions go with anything you are wearing and with every mood. Dials are guilloche with feminine patterns, but the sportier bezel still lets this watch wander from work to the gym with you with ease.

Not every impressive watch has to carry a hefty price tag. For watch aficionados just getting started, there are a host of great watches for men that won’t break the bank. Here we take a look at 10 great watches that retail for less than $5,000.

Breitling SuperOcean II
If water sports are your thing, or if you just like the way a dive watch looks on the wrist, check out the Breitling SuperOcean II watch. The bold 44mm version in steel (especially with a blue dial) looks great and is highly functional. Not only is it water resistant to 1,000 meters, but also it has oversized hands and numerals with a luminescent coating for easy underwater reading. It is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement and retails for about $4,150.

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Frederique Constant Horological Smartwatch
For those who love the concept of a smart watch but want the look of a real watch, the Frederique Constant Horological Smartwatch is the perfect piece. Deftly balancing classic watch looks with connected functions, the Horological Smartwatch is usually crafted in either stainless steel or rose gold-plated steel. The time indication is quartz-powered, while the additional features include connected hands, activity tracker, alerts, sleep monitory, world time, cloud storage, and more. It can generally be found for about $995 to $1,295.

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Graham Chronofighter Vintage
Looking for a bold vintage style? The Graham Chronofighter Vintage with left-side crown and pushers recalls the pilot watches of yesteryear. The watch features an oversized crown guard protection system, luminescent hands and markers (with the 12 o’clock in Arabic numerals), day and date indication, and chronograph totalizers. This automatic watch has a lot packed into it, including 48 hours of power reserve—all for about $4,950.

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Longines Conquest
With the tag line, “Elegance is an attitude,” Swiss-made Longines has a long tradition of creating classic timepieces with high-quality craftsmanship. If you like a polished look, this brand is for you. Of particular note is the Conquest collection that includes sophisticated and sporty looks. Crafted in steel or black PVD, these watches offer chronograph functions, generally measure about 42mm in diameter for a great fit on the wrist. They retail from $1,700 to about $1,950 new. Second-hand will be priced even better.

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Stoic Pilot Watch
Created by master watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin, the newly launched Stoic collection is all about classic looks without the name-brand price. Because Speake-Marin is a stickler for perfection, when he decided to launch this highly affordable line, he turned to Seiko Precision Instruments, whose movements and craftsmanship could meet his demands. The new Stoic watches include a pilot’s watch, a panda-style chronograph, and a two-tone sport watch with chronograph. Utilitarian in nature, the watches are based on the philosophy of Stoicism and offer a lot of bang for very little buck, $290 to $490 new.

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TAG Heuer Formula 1
If cars and racing is in your blood, you may just want the TAG Heuer Formula 1 watch on your wrist. There are a host of Formula 1 chronograph styles to choose from, including automatic pieces with the brand’s own Caliber 16. Each watch features colors and accents that recall Formula 1 racing and most feature tachymeter bezels for measuring speed. Best thing about these watches: they range in price from about $1,000 to $3,200 new.

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Tockr Air Defender AD1
A new independent brand on the market, Tockr was founded in America and its radial-engine design accents are inspired by the founder’s military grandfather, who was a US Army pilot and flew a C-47 aircraft in World War II. The Tockr Air Defender AD1 watch is perfect for those who want a combination of vintage and cutting edge. The watch is powered by the very fine Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph caliber and offers day/date indications. It comes in host of colors, but don’t miss the steel version with blue dial and strap; it’s to die for, especially with a price tag of about $1,600.

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Traser Officer Pro Automatic
If you like luminosity and being able to tell the time in the dark, turn to the highly affordable, super-bright Traser Officer Pro Automatic watches. Created specifically for outdoor use, these timepieces are offered in steel, black steel, bronze, and more. The automatic watch features a dial that uses the brand’s proprietary Trigalight ® tritium, self-illuminating markers. These watches range in price from about $785 to $895, depending on the model.

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Tudor 
The little brother of Rolex, Tudor has become an intriguing option for new collectors. The brand offers top-notch quality and their clean designs are beginning to attract a bit of a cult-like following. While the brand has a host of sporty lines, if you want the Rolex look without the price, check out Tudor watches with mechanical movement, steel-and-gold bi-color cases and bracelets, and an iconic-looking fluted bezel. They can be found new for about $3,350.

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Tutima Saxon One Automatic Watch
For those looking for good classic German watchmaking, stop the search. Tutima has just the watch for you: the crisp, clean-looking Saxon One Automatic watch. Offered in a host of versions, including a classic black-strapped model with anthracite gray dial or brown alligator strap with silver/white dial, the automatic watch offers day and date indication. Its round bezel, set within an outer cushion-shaped case offers a great air of distinction. On strap, the watch can be found for about $3,400. Prefer a bracelet? No problem, that version is about $3,800.

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Not all brown diamonds are of equal value nor are all brown diamonds natural. Before you decide on making a brown diamond purchase, it is important to research, just like you would a white diamond. There are natural color brown diamonds, synthetic brown diamonds, irradiated brown diamonds, and Le Vian Chocolate Diamonds®.

Natural Brown Diamonds
Natural color brown diamonds are believed by geologists to be formed under very high pressure deep in the earth. It is this same intense high pressure that forms pink diamonds. The pressure exerted during this process is believed to be even higher than the pressure exerted when forming white diamonds. The high-pressure conditions also cause inclusions to form within the diamond. While all diamonds have inclusions, some contain more than others. The grading of inclusions is referred to as the ‘clarity’ of a diamond. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has a standard of grading clarity which considers the amount, extent, location, inclusion type, and if the inclusion can be seen under 10x magnification. Clarity with white diamonds is a more important factor for determining the value of the diamond. Color, or what GIA refers to as the face-up color, is the dominant value factor with fancy color diamonds.

Synthetic Brown Diamonds
Synthetic brown diamonds are man-made in a lab and, therefore, are not natural. While the price of all-natural diamonds goes up every year, the cost of synthetic diamonds is expected to decrease based on the continuous improvements in the technology used to create them. Synthetic brown diamonds are not as plentiful as irradiated brown diamonds because natural brown diamonds are still affordable.

Irradiated Brown Diamonds
Irradiated brown diamonds are diamonds that have been color treated. Irradiated diamonds are created from lower-quality natural brown diamonds that would not normally be used in jewelry. Irradiation is used to enhance the color of the diamond and sometimes improve the clarity to make the diamond more commercially acceptable. The U.S. government strictly regulates the use of radiation on diamonds. Anyone who is selling or trading irradiated diamonds needs to obtain certification by a Nuclear Regulatory Commission certified lab to certify that the diamond is safe to sell.

Le Vian Chocolate Diamonds®, All Natural
Le Vian is the owner of the Le Vian Chocolate Diamonds® brand in many countries, including the U.S. and the U.K. It is the only brand allowed to refer to its brown diamonds as Chocolate Diamonds®. Le Vian established the brand to regulate the criteria of what is considered a Chocolate Diamond®. Each Chocolate Diamond must be within the C4-C6 range on the Argyle color chart and each Chocolate Diamond® must be SI or better, which means the diamond is eye-clean and inclusions are not visible without the use of a microscope. Each Chocolate Diamond® is cut to Le Vian’s exacting standards and is responsibly sourced. Le Vian is a certified member of the Responsible Jewelry Council (RJC), committed to the responsible sourcing of its jewelry, from mine to retail.

Both Irradiated brown diamonds and synthetic brown diamonds do not follow Le Vian’s strict criteria and, therefore, cannot use the name Chocolate Diamonds®.

Le Vian has a centuries long history of discovering gems. The current generation has decades of experience from visiting mines, searching for and cutting gems. It was in 2000 that the Le Vian Chocolate Diamonds was born. Le Vian had noticed that the Argyle Mine was receiving increased interest in their pink diamonds. High net-worth individuals were attracted to the millions of unique variations of these natural color diamonds. However, the anomaly was that the mine’s natural fancy color brown diamonds were not under high demand because many were highly included. Le Vian found that there was a small percentage of brown gems that feature high color and clarity. Thus, Le Vian invented the term Chocolate Diamonds® in order to designate a separate quality criterion.

In the last decade, natural color fancy diamonds have sold at record breaking prices all over the world. Although Chocolate Diamonds® have increased in price, they are still more affordable than other natural color diamonds and white diamonds. It is thought by an overwhelming majority of the industry that Chocolate Diamonds® will increase in value as the Argyle Mine closes in 2020. Already, in 2018, only dozens of stones that are larger than 1.5 carat were produced at the mine.

Comparing White Diamonds to Chocolate Diamonds®
So, what’s the difference and how do all diamonds compare? A 1-carat white diamond could range from $5,000 – $50,000. A 1-carat Chocolate Diamond® ranges between $4,200-$8,000. Quite a good deal for a natural color diamond that is rarer than a white diamond.

 

Easily one of the hottest watch brands on the market today is Panerai (or Officine Panerai). Collectors just can’t stop clamoring for this brand—particularly the esoteric Paneristi group of devotees who adore nearly exclusively the Panerai brand. While its few collections are always in demand, it is the Panerai Luminor that is the most sought-after series for a host of reasons. Here we take a look at the iconic Luminor and why it is so collectible.

The Introduction of the Panerai Luminor
Essentially born out of the Royal Italian Navy’s request for then Italian-made Panerai to craft the most luminous and readable watch, the Luminor was created in 1949. Prior to the Luminor, Panerai had produced the Radiomir line (with a patented radium paste to provide luminosity). The Luminor, meanwhile, used a tritium-based substance for its lumen, which Panerai also patented. When the brand’s contract with the Royal Italian Navy ended in 1953, the company began offering its watches to the public. However, the watches were aesthetically-speaking too big during an era of small watches. The Panerai brand just seemed to quietly make an existence over the ensuring four decades.

The Resurgence of the Panerai Luminor
In 1993, though, Panerai created an updated collection of three watches, one of which was the Luminor. It was inspired by the early Luminors made for the Royal Italian Navy and featured one important signature feature: the crown guard that Panerai had patented in Italy in 1955. The “Tight Seal Device” would ensure water resistance up to 200 meters.

Over the years, especially once Panerai was acquired by the Vendome Group (now the Richemont Group) in 1997, the Luminor has enjoyed a variety of evolutions.

In 2002, Panerai created a true sensation when it unveiled the Luminor 1950 case that was inspired by the model created in 1950. It was 47mm instead of 44mm, the size of the 1993 version. Additionally, it was closer to the original Luminor’s true heritage shape and had a slightly domed sapphire crystal. It was an immediate hit with Panerai enthusiasts. Today, the Luminor and Luminor 1950 continue to evolve, but always remain true to their roots.

The Signature Look and Collectible Appeal of the Panerai Luminor
Today, with functions ranging from Eight Days (power reserve) to GMT, chronographs and more, the Luminor collection (including the Luminor, Luminor 1950, and Luminor Marina) remains the most desirable for collectors for five key reasons:

1. The crown guard. The most distinctive signature of the modern-day Panerai Luminor watches is the protective crown guard. From across a crowded room, any watch enthusiast who knows Panerai will recognize you’re wearing a Luminor if the watch has the legendary crown guard—and let’s face it—who doesn’t want to be thought of as a Paneristi?

2. The sandwich dial. A throwback to its roots, the Panerai Luminor watch is beloved for the famed “sandwich” constructed dial. Clean in design and incredibly sophisticated, the sandwich dial is a two-layer dial. The top dial consists of the black parts of the dial (think like a stencil with the hour markers and numerals in negative), and the bottom dial which features the luminous parts that glow in the dark. It should be noted that not all Luminor watches have sandwich dials; some have painted luminous dials. Opt for the sandwich dial when shopping for a Luminor. It is a beloved feature and helps the watch hold its value.

3. The luminosity. The single most important factor about Panerai, and the reason for its success in 1860, is the luminous materials it uses in its watches. From the radium-based materials in the first half of the 20th century, to the tritium-based materials employed by the second half, Panerai built its reputation on offering patented luminous technology. Today, its luminous dials are among the brightest, most vivid, and most easily readable on the market.

4. The on-going commitment to innovation. While this commitment is true of Panerai as a brand, the Luminor series in particular reflects Panerai’s advanced research. Each time there is a significant premier, Panerai houses it in a Luminor, including the Lab-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Day watch (a lubricant-free watch whose dial is made with a coating of carbon nanotubes for ultimate black); the Lo Scienziato Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT (with a titanium 3-D printed case and one of the most technical GMT watches in the world); and the Limited Edition L’Astronomo Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT watch (one of the most complex watches the brand has built and featuring moon phases indication and innovative polarized crystal date indications).

5. The heritage and rich roots. Easily one of the most important factors surrounding the Luminor is its rich military roots and the stories that accompany Luminor’s growth. Such stories include the mid-1990s adventure with Sylvester Stallone, who happened upon the Panerai boutique in Florence while filming Daylight. He was so enamored with the Luminor that he had Panerai make him 15 watches in two styles: the Sly-Tech black dial Luminor and the Daylight white-dial Luminor. He gifted these 15 watches to friends, including Arnold Schwarzenegger who wore his watches in movies, as well. Who doesn’t want to tell those stories about the watch on his or her wrist?

The list goes on but, suffice it to say that, the Panerai Luminor watch – especially a 44mm version – is one you just can’t go wrong with. For a more complete look at the history and evolution of Panerai since its founding in 1860 here.

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Engagement rings are one of the most important purchases we make in our lives, and we’re willing to pay a lot of money for this special piece of jewelry. However, there’s often a lot of confusion about what constitutes a fair price for an engagement ring and how exactly the final price is calculated. To add to this, the resale value of a diamond ring after the initial purchase is often much different than the original price. If you’re confused about how to determine a ring’s price, read this detailed and concise explanation to learn more.

Diamond Quality and Value
One of the essential aspects that contributes to the price of engagement ring is the diamond quality grades. While researching engagement rings, it’s common to learn about the 4 C’s of diamonds: clarity, color, cut, and carat. The clarity refers to the diamond’s ability to give off light and sparkle; as expected, the higher the clarity, the higher the price. Carat also plays a huge role in the value of the diamond; in fact, the price difference between a 1-carat diamond and a 3-carat diamond is exponential. If the diamond is slightly yellow or brown colored, you can expect to fetch a lower price than one that’s pure and clear.

All of these factors can be easily identified with a GIA certificate by a certified gemologist. As GIA is the most trusted lab in the country, a GIA-certified diamond is usually going to be more expensive than one from a lower quality or unrecognized lab.

While it’s possible to find some information on current diamond prices online, in order to get an accurate assessment of a diamond’s current market value, it’s best to work with a trusted jeweler who has access to privileged industry information and online diamond trading software like Rapnet.

Metal Value

Another important element that factors into the ring’s final price is the quality of the ring’s metal. Gold is the most popular metal for engagement rings, but an 18k gold ring is going to be worth more than a 10k gold ring. Because pure gold is too soft for jewelry, a gold alloy is formed by adding in other, harder metals. 18k consists of 75% pure gold, while 14k only consists of around 58% pure gold. Platinum, of course, will command a higher price for the ring.

How Labor Factors into the Price

While the diamond(s) and metal involved are certainly huge factors for the price, the labor and design work involved also play a role. If the ring is outsourced overseas, the cost of production will be much cheaper than if a jewelry artisan handcrafted it stateside. If it’s a complex, custom designed ring, the jewelry designer’s work can also factor into the price.

Final Markup and Brand Recognition
Depending on where you buy your engagement ring, the final cost can be very different. For instance, shopping online at an e-commerce store will usually yield a lower price than buying a ring at a national jewelry chain. The big box retail stores will often charge a high premium on their rings in order to cover their expenses like overhead, sales commission, and inventory. Additionally, these stores generally apply a 2.2x markup on their jewelry.

On the other hand, newer online engagement ring retailers like Brilliant Earth focus more on made-to-order jewelry and don’t need to worry about as many additional costs, so you’ll often find better deals. And if you work directly with a jewelry studio and avoid retail altogether, you may end up paying even less.

All of these factors, from diamond quality to metal, to labor and markup, each play a vital role in determining an engagement ring’s initial sale price.

Resale Value of an Engagement Ring
If you try to sell your diamond ring and recoup some of the money, you might be surprised to find the price you’re able to sell it for is often much less than the price you originally purchased it for. There are a number of reasons for this; most importantly, the diamond’s market value drops immediately after the initial ring sale.

Compared to some other gems (like emeralds) diamonds are not necessarily intrinsically rare, but rather their price is controlled by a tight market supply. Diamond dealers and others in the industry are unlikely to pay an individual seller the full value for a diamond and prefer to work with wholesale companies than can offer guarantees and other benefits. However, it’s possible to recoup up to 70-80% of the original value if you sell to another individual (for instance, at an auction).

Aside from the diamond value, the resale value of your ring will be lower for a number of other reasons. Since it’s no longer new, there are no associated costs for labor, design, or retail markup. However, the gold or platinum that makes up the body of the ring can be resold to a gold dealer or other industry professional. And if a famous brand name is associated with the ring, this can also add value as well.

All of that being said, buying insurance for your engagement ring is one of the best ways to maintain its monetary value over time. For a small sum each year, you’ll have peace of mind and be sure that you’ll be able to recoup the original amount you spent.

If your diamond engagement ring is vintage, antique, or crafted by a well-known brand, it can still be quite valuable. Otherwise, expect the initial price of your ring to be considerably higher than the resale value. Of course, if you’re interested in saving some money on markup and other costs when purchasing your engagement ring, consider a pre-owned ring or buying directly from a custom jeweler.

 

CadCamNYC is a jewelry design studio based in New York that works with high-end designers and private clients. For more blogs on fine jewelry, visit CadCamNYC.com.

If you love watches, you no doubt know of Panerai, the now-Swiss-made watch brand with Italian roots dating back more than a century and a half. While the company has a long history, its monumental rise to stardom as a coveted collector’s brand with a cult-like following (a group dubbed the Paneristi) around the world, dates back only 20 years. Here we take a look at the origins of Panerai, its military and marine past, and its modern-day iconic status.

The Origins of Panerai and its Early Military History
In 1860 Italian watchmaker Giovanni Panerai opened a small watchmaker’s shop in Florence on Ponte alle Grazie to offer watch services and act as a watchmaking school. For many years, Panerai operated his small shop and school, but in the 1900s the company started making timepieces for the Royal Italian Navy. Additionally, the shop, G. Panerai & Figlio, moved to a more central location in Piazza San Giovanni, opposite the Duomo, where it remains today.

As the navy demands increased, Panerai stepped up its precision-instrument game and, in 1916, unveiled the Panerai Radiomir, which far surpassed anything else on the market in terms of luminosity. The Radiomir used a radium-based powder, for which Panerai submitted a patent, to illuminate the dials. The intense visibility of the radium-based paint underwater brought even greater military attention to Panerai.

Panerai Introduces the Radiomir
Two decades later, in 1936, with World War II looming, the Royal Italian Navy again came to Panerai to create a marine watch that was luminous, large, easy to read, and water-resistant. The Navy needed watches designed expressly for the frogman of the First Submarine Group Command of the Royal Italian Navy who would ride the under-water slow-running torpedoes.

To bring those first military-marine watches to fruition, Panerai turned to Rolex, which already had the Oyster, a water-resistant case the brand created in 1926. Rolex enlarged its 26mm Oyster case for Panerai and fitted the watches with a pocket watch movement, the Rolex 618 caliber. Panerai added its famed luminosity and the first Radiomir prototypes were born.

Those first Radiomir watches (which clearly resemble the Rolex Oyster watches of the time) were large in size for the time, but were designed for military use with luminescent numerals and indexes—all hallmarks of the Radiomir today. Panerai created 10 versions for the Italian navy, and began making improvements and advancements. In 1938, the brand unveiled a new Radiomir with, what is today, the brand’s famous sandwich dial, with overlapping plates to make the luminescent radium more readable. It featured the four main numerals (12, 3, 6, 9) and stick indexes.

In 1940, in response to the Italian Royal Navy’s request for water resistance for longer periods of time, Panerai reworked the Radiomir and unveiled the Radiomir 1940 with a case that was milled from a single block of steel and a reshaped crown that went from conical to tubular. With advances in luminescent materials, Panerai unveiled the Luminor in 1949 with a new patented luminous substance that was tritium-based. Within a year, the transition from the Radiomir substance to the Luminor was complete.

Panerai’s Rise to Mainstream Popularity After World War II
In 1953, with the war over, Panerai’s contract with the Italian Navy ended and the brand made its watches available to the public in Italy for the first time. Because of their size, Panerai watches were not in great demand. In 1972, Guido Panerai passed away and the family business passed to another family member, engineer Dino Zei, who changed the name officially to Officine Panerai S.r.L. In the ensuing decades, Panerai had a small, but somewhat obscure, business in Italy. In 1993, the brand released three updated collections, including the Luminor and Mare Nostrum.

The watches caught the attention of actor Sylvester Stallone, who was filming a movie in Italy called Daylight. He walked by the Panerai boutique in Florence and fell in love with the bold look of the watches. He bought one and wore it in the movie. Additionally, he asked Panerai to make more for him, with his name on the dial. The brand created the limited-edition Sly-tech, ten of which had a black dial and five with a white dial, which Stallone brought back to America for friends.

Panerai Relaunches with Richemont Group
Around the same time, the Panerai collection caught the attention of Johann Rupert, head of the Vendome Group (today Richemont Group). He liked the military influences and the brand’s rich past and connection with Rolex. In 1997, the Vendome Group acquired Officine Panerai for about $1 million. Rupert turned to then-Cartier executive Angelo Bonati to oversee the new, fairly fledgling firm and planned an international launch of Panerai for 2001.

It was Bonati’s dream to bring the brand to great heights and to create a full, vertically-integrated manufacture. Working with a tiny marketing budget, Bonati had to get very creative. He focused on product first, unveiling a collection in 1998 that had an inscription on the back and the watch number, starting with the letter A. Every year thereafter, the watch numbers started with the next letter of the alphabet. (This year, its nineteenth in production, Panerai is on the letter “U.”)

With the official international launch of Panerai by the Richemont Group, the brand selected the phrase “Laboratorio di Idee” (Italian for laboratory of ideas) to indicate its ongoing commitment to research and innovation. It is a philosophy that endures today, especially with respect to the brand’s revolutionary timepieces such as the L’Astronomo and Lo Sienziato.

The first watches unveiled under the leadership of Bonati and the ownership of Vendome/Richemont Group were the Luminor and Luminor Marina and were incredibly bold thanks to their crown guard and luminosity. Also, because Stallone still wore the watches in movies and had gifted one to Arnold Schwarzenegger who also wore his regularly, consumers around the world were seeing Panerai watches.

Soon, a group of watch lovers took note. Bonati cultivated those collectors and the cult-like following of watch lovers formed what is known as the Paneristi. This was a huge move in the watch world, especially in the year 2000. Never before did a watch brand have such a loyal following who would meet and talk about their watches. Bonati also focused on creating a full manufacture and hired some of the finest watchmakers. In 2002, the brand opened a 10,000-square-meter (approximately 107,640 square-feet) watchmaking facility in Lake Neuchatel and unveiled its first in-house Panerai movement, the P. 2002, a hand-wound caliber with GMT function.

Panerai’s Issues Modern & Coveted Limited-Edition Watches
Bonati insisted on creating limited editions to keep the production controlled and demand high. In 2006, Panerai issued the 1936 California Dial Radiomir special edition, a reissue of the first Panerai model presented to the Italian Marina Militare. Only 1,936 pieces were made. Today that watch and the California Dial are in great demand by Paneristi. Other important re-issues included the Mare Nostrum, a 99-piece edition of a watch that Panerai had designed for deck officers of the Navy in 1942.

Additionally, the brand reinforced its marine history, forming partnerships with the sailing world and becoming immensely involved with the world’s Classic Yacht regattas. Panerai has also expanded its retail footprint and boasts 75 stores globally, including 13 in America.

Earlier this year Bonati stepped down as CEO after 20 years of bringing Panerai from relative obscurity to international fame. The newly appointed CEO, Jean-Marc Pontroue, hails from the Roger Dubuis brand and has a penchant for the Panerai Submersibles. It will be interesting to see what happens next. In the meantime, Panerai lovers should scuttle to get your hands on some of the fine watches that were produced in the era from 1997 to date.

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